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| Restaurant La
Sinfonia |
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| Milan -
Italy |
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Society -
Extraordinary
July - 2009 |
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6 Stars
& 5 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| In the fiercely competitive world of culinary arts,
Executive
Chef Giacomo Gaspari of La Sinfonia Restaurant in Milan’s fabled Town
House Galleria stands out as a master of his trade. His stage is a restaurant
in Milan, a city famously known for some of the greatest musical venues in the
world. As if conducting opera at La Scala, a stone’s throw away, Chef
Gaspari communicates artistic directions to his team during his culinary
performance each night. And like conductors who can be revered as a god, Chef
Gaspari is the star of his show. It doesn’t take much to see for yourself
how La Sinfonia Restaurant is set up as a jewel in the crown of the fine dining
scene in Milan. Live music emanates from the glass enclosed
‘galleria’ just outside the windows of the restaurant. The view from
window-side tables is reminiscent of 19th century glass and steel ‘world
expo’ construction. The tables are decked with starched white linen and
Rosenthal fine bone china, the ‘Jade’ series. Although modern in
appearance and function, the restaurant is accentuated with low-hanging
chandeliers in a throwback attempt to the operatic roots of Milan in the
previous century. |
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| As a one-man show in his
domain, Chef Gaspari’s tasting menu reflects the passion and creativity of
a man driven by his inner tempo, preparations and beats. To be totally
successful in this endeavor, he must still listen critically to the sounds and
routines of his kitchen ensemble. With his team in sync, the show must go
on! |
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| To start with, Fois Gras with Pan Brioche in Port
Sauce became the opening number paired with Déhu Père
& Fils Tradition Brut Champagne. We took note of the box-like packet
that contained the brioche artistically keeping it hot and moist. We were
somewhat puzzled when the second course of Duck Liver with Xeres Vinegar
accompanied by Peach Chutney arrived since we just finished with Fois Gras
but it was a totally different preparation. The duck liver was caramelized
through delicate pan searing offering a crisp envelope surrounding a creamy
interior. Add to that the fresh fruit flavor of Italian ‘pesca’
chutney and you have an aria in center stage. An aromatic bottle of Tenuta
Südtiroler Sauvignon 2008, Alto Adige became our wine selection for
this course and displayed a delicate minerality and acidity. Next course of
Crab Bisque with Lobster Rings received our highest rating because of
the intense flavor profile of fresh ocean crab. A Chardonnay Planeta 2006,
Sicily worked well to support this thick and creamy soup with its honey
butter style. Lamb Filet in Bronte Pistachio Crust was cooked to the
perfect temperature of rose-colored pink. The crust of Bronte pistachios
provided a stronger, sharper taste than regular pistachios, due perhaps from
being grown in the rich volcanic soil of Mt. Etna in Sicily. A ruby colored
Tavel Rose Perrin & Fils, 2005 was suggested to accompany the lamb
and our eyes couldn’t help but dart back and forth between the interior of
the lamb filet and the color of the wine. The rose was crisp and clean with
hints of spice and raspberry aromas. |
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| 2009 -
Award-Hand-Out: Restaurant La Sinfonia, Milan - Italy |
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| Now came the Beef Filet with Artichokes and
Mushrooms blending the earthy flavor of mushrooms and fresh picked flavor
of artichokes. It was appropriate to pair this entrée with a bottle of
Cabernet Sauvignon Riserva 2006, Kornell displaying a ruby red color
wrapped in the fragrance of violets. Finally to simplify matters, Chef Gaspari
sent out Lemon Sorbetto and Zabaglione. We savored each bite relishing
the sweet mellow flavor of egg yolks and Marsala wine. A fine bottle of
Valpolicella, 2004 with super floral notes of cherry and berries made
the grade forcing us to slowly consume the sorbetto just moments before it
melted. I must offer my sincere gratitude to Chef Giacomo Gaspari for his
tenacious creativity in setting the Restaurant La Sinfonia on its road to
success. |
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by
Thorsten & Edmund Buehrmann
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2009 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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