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| "Kiosko numero dos! Kiosko numero dos!" the nice man
kept repeating over and over when we asked where we could find a good place to
sample authentic Puerto Rican food. We were a little hungry after our three and
a half hour climb to the top of 'El Yunque', the tallest mountain peak in all
of Puerto Rico. At the beginning of our climb stood a park ranger named Carlos,
presumably there to direct visitors to the right paths through the rain forest
to reach the top of our 'El Yunque', to a place known as 'Las
Rocas' for a panoramic view of the distant coastline. Carlos was in the
same place when we returned from 'Las
Rocas' and couldn't contain his excitement while recommending his cousin's
kiosk on Loquillo Beach for a taste of local Puerto Rican soul food.
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| Our
excursion
to this National Forest was dutifully arranged for us by the expert concierge
desk at our temporary home the El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door®
Spa, an outstanding tranquil oasis floating on high cliffs overlooking a sea of
turquoise green. They managed our car rental for the day and mapped out the way
to the park while making sure we didn't miss any important sights along the
way. At the same time they briefed us on how to avoid the many 'critters'
(notorious slow moving vehicles) on the chaotic highways of PR and still enjoy
the ride through this enchanted land. We had come to El Conquistador Resort for
an intense look at this long lived property and its world famous Golden
Door® Spa and to sample the new cuisine ideas of their up and coming
inspired and motivated kitchen team. |
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| El Con' as it is known to the locals, is a world-class
resort and spa with a golf venue that could keep you busy all day and should be
called a 'widow-maker'. Riding high on these elevated bunkers, the 72-par
Arthur Hill course allows you to see unbelievable vistas for miles in all
directions. Arrival at El Con is usually through San Juan airport and since the
resort offers free transportation, the 2 hour ride seemed to wiz by quickly as
the driver / DJ kept us moving in our seats with non-stop 'merengue' and
'salsa' music. Check-in was seamless and welcoming making sure that we were in
capable hands at all times. Our bellman smiled a lot and focused on imparting
as much pertinent information about the physical resort and important things to
do during our stay. Upon entering the Jr suite in the Las Brisas Wing, we were
knocked-out by the view from the balcony! Our bellman was still talking about
the amenities in the bathroom while we were both drawn to the window by the
powerful image that seemed to widen with every step forward. Stepping back
inside was hard as we tore ourselves away from the striking view. As we
re-entered the suite we found the bellman still standing where we left him
dutifully waiting for our attention. He pointed out that wi-fi or cable
Internet access service was available for a small daily charge and the large
screen TV could receive most US channels clearly. First it was time for a tour
of the premises and since Phyllis had been here three times previously, she
took the lead and guided me out the door in the direction of the Marina level a
mere 300 feet below us. |
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'To get there we walked
leisurely through the main lobby and down the stairs past the various food
outlets, shops and nice sized Casino with 22 tables and 221 slots. Once we
arrived at the Café Bella Vista, we moved outside and down once more to
one of the eight different pools. On this level it is the view that takes your
breath away with shading coconut palms framing the verandas adding accent to
the aquamarine waters beyond. Off in the distance Phyllis pointed out the
several large islands of Vieques, Culebra (both Puerto Rican) and 40 miles
distant the Island of St Thomas in the American Virgin Islands. The grounds
were well maintained and full of interesting tropical plants and trees as well
as original sculptures strategically placed throughout the property. Next stop
was the 'funicular', a unique people mover that offers 'ski-lift-like'
transportation down the 300-foot cliff side to the marina level and the
Stingray Café. I wanted to see more of this enchanted place but a quick
look at my watch made me realize that it was time to return to the Café
Bella Vista for my pre-arranged interview with Executive Chef Rolf Weithofer.
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“You could almost breath in the tranquility as we walked past a
signpost on the island
directing travelers to all distant points of
interest from the real world.” ~ JLL |
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| I was impressed with the dynamic youthful confidence
of Chef Rolf when I first met him while exchanging ideas as we sat outside at
the Café Bella Vista. It was really hard to take your eyes off the
unfolding view that presented itself to each slight turn of the head in any
direction but somehow we managed to continue our interview. We talked of his
achievements and goals and the future of the resort, which recently became part
of the new LXR Luxury Resorts' Collection of 23 properties worldwide. "Start
small and get tall" he said when I asked him to describe how he intends to
influence change over the long haul. His plans include working with LXR during
the impending $96 million revitalization of the property and its 22 food and
beverage outlets. Chef Rolf attributes much of the influences on his cuisine to
experience garnered while working with InterContinental Hotels and Resorts in
New York, Germany, Hawaii and Puerto Rico after his graduation with high honors
from the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. I couldn't
contain my anticipation of this evening's cuisine review at Isabella's
Restaurant where Chef Rolf will bare all to deliver his formula for success in
his new world of culinary greatness. We planed to meet at Drakes Bar, a
sophisticated hangout for well-heeled patrons, this evening before dinner to
meet the rest of the team and discuss menu options. |
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| But first it was time for me to catch up to my wife
Phyllis who was holding a chaise lounge for me on tiny private Palomino Island,
the idyllic, dreamy, serene beach location reserved for the patrons of El
Conquistador. You could see it shimmering on the horizon just a 12 minute boat
ride away . . . . from everything! "You really feel like you're on a tropical
island somewhere in the Caribbean" Phyllis said once I disembarked from the
water taxi provided by the resort. I looked around and saw nothing but miles
and miles of open ocean framed by the towering peaks of 'El Yunque', the very
place that we visited the other day on our excursion. You could almost breath
in the tranquility as we walked past a signpost on the island directing
travelers to all distant points of interest from the real world. 'Right now we
are in dream' I thought as I struggled with the urge to start planning to build
my 'Survivor '-style shack in the sky, high up in one of those delightful
overhanging coconut trees. |
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| After a very restful
interlude on the tiny island we returned via water taxi for our spa
appointments at the renowned Golden Door® Spa, a name so big it almost
seemed intimidating. We arrived early as instructed and were given lockers and
robes to adorn before being escorted to the pleasant waiting area. Having read
that Golden Door® Spas consistently wind up in the top 10 best spas in
Zagats US Resort Hotel & Spa Guide and Travel & Leisure magazine, I was
prepared for the curse of indifference that usually afflicts highly successful
service oriented businesses. I couldn't have been more wrong as from the moment
we booked our appointments to the final goodbye it was a story of compassionate
pampering at its best. My personal choice after much debate was the 80-minute
Shiatsu massage targeting my injured hip joint by stimulating and stretching
the meridians of the body. |
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| I fully expected to be walked-upon by some diminutive
Geisha while lying in the supine position and sipping green tea. This was not
to be contrary to wishful thinking and after just 10 minutes of skillfully
placed concentrated pressure combined with the soothing interwoven ethereal
sounds of enlightened music I was wooed into my personal '7th
heaven'. Phyllis in the meantime was enjoying the Core Bodywork, one of the
signature treatments offered at Golden Door®. Her therapist Bill, a former
Special Forces Operative, proved to succeed in the stated goals of structural
alignment while increasing flexibility. Phyllis emerged after the hour and a
half treatment fully dependent on an attendant's assistance finding her way
back to the pavilion as if half asleep. Her speech was slow and methodical and
her persona was that of being in another world. It took another 45 minutes for
my wife to shower and change so that we could get ready for our evening with
Chef Rolf and our cuisine review at Isabella's Restaurant. Both of us were like
jell-o figurines, bouncing all over the place as we hurriedly dressed ourselves
to make it to the Drake's Bar for our pre-dinner meeting with the Executive
Chef. |
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| American Dream Cuisine™ |
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| Isabella's Restaurant |
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El
Conquistador,
Fajardo, Puerto Rico |
|
Merit - Extraordinary
December - 2005 |
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4 Stars
& 5 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
|
The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™ |
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| Surprisingly, we got to our meeting place in record
time even though we had to take an elevator, walk a long way past the casino
and shops, then up an escalator to the restaurant level. Although the Drake's
Bar was full of aprè-golf types all pounding down Stoli martinis and
puffing on large cigars, it somehow seemed pleasant and free of annoying smoke.
Chef Rolf entered and announced that he had arranged a tour of the kitchen
facilities for us to meet some of his talented team and to see the inner
workings of his newfound pride and joy. "The secret to exceptional cuisine as I
see it is to simply start with fresh products, apply your unbridled imagination
and keep it consistent all the time" he said as he led us through the busy but
clean and organized kitchen. Our tour led us past the bakery where we witnessed
Executive Pastry Chef Nelson Adorno putting the finishing touches on one of his
incredible award winning chocolate sculptures. Further on we were introduced to
Executive Sous Chef Pascal Gresser, a talented man with 20 years experience
working in Puerto Rico, Mariana Islands, London and Wales. "We have the makings
of a solid nucleus for my ideas to take root" Chef Rolf confided as he
proceeded to lead us to our table in the cleverly decorated Latin accented
restaurant. The ambiance was muted with well-placed indirect lighting and cute
little lamps on every table. |
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| Chef Rolf excused himself so
that he could direct things in the back of the house as the cheery server team
of Hechmar and Mary Luz, charming locals from Puerto Rico, politely greeted us.
They quickly produced three types of house made breads including pumpernickel,
sour dough and of all things pretzel bread along with two types of whipped
butter. 'Greetings from the Kitchen' arrived in the form of little tapas-like
appetizers consisting of four spoons artfully arranged on a hand-formed ceramic
plate topped with Mushroom Stuffed with Crab and Pan Seared Diver
Scallops with Melted Goat Cheese on a bed of Shredded Coconut. |
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| Rolf
Weithofer & Nelson Adorno |
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It was Restaurant Director Javier and Captain Anthony
that approached now with a lightly chilled bottle of Conundrum
Chardonnay from Monterrey County California, one of the coolest, driest
regions for wine growing. Apparently this adds to the resulting deep golden
color and ripe flavors of apricot, green melon and pear all in a creamy
texture. Next came Grilled Hearts of Romaine with Fried Onions and Balsamic
Reduction. It took us a while to realize that we were in fact eating
'grilled' lettuce that held up well surprisingly and had a unique smoky flavor
while at the same time a hint of sweetness contributed by the balsamic
reduction.
Heckmar and Mary Luz busied themselves with clearing the
table and keeping our wine glasses topped off as the next course arrived of
Shrimps Mofongo, a Puerto Rican version of fried shrimp accompanied by
mashed plantains, garlic and bacon cracklings. Grilled Sea Bass and Shrimp
with fried Yucca, a fresh tasting seafood combo with the added nutlike
flavor of yucca, followed this. Phyllis and I seemed oblivious to all that was
going on around us worrying that we might appear noodle-like as we were still
feeling the effects of our afternoon pampering in the spa. |
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| John
Lomitola & Rolf Weithofer |
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It was Heckmar that had the
formula to bring us out of the state of suspended animation and it was as
simple as 'espresso'. Two doubles were in order and Mary Luz respectfully
suggested a small glass of 20-year-old Port. Just then it was Executive Pastry
Chef Nelson Adorno who approached with his Tasting Plate of Mini
Desserts, a deliciously wild assortment of tasty tid-bits including
chocolate truffle, key lime and crème brulè. It was a night to
remember and we marched off to our room without even the courage or strength to
have even a nightcap at the very happening Casablanca Nightclub. As we passed
the club on our way to the elevator, I couldn't help just a little 'merengue'
step to the infectious sounds of fiery Latin music. |
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| The walk to our room in the Las Brisas Wing allowed us
to gaze heavenward toward the myriad of constellations and stars festooned upon
the black background of space. As if to double the experience, once you enter
you are again drawn to the balcony like a moth to fire for a most spectacular
view. But it wasn't till the following morning after a restful night I arose at
sunrise to a vision that almost took my breath away. To capture the moment I
stumbled about the room trying not to wake Phyllis while I set up my tri-pod
for this
panoramic
image of the view to Vieques Sound. |
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| Our last day would begin with a planned breakfast
buffet at the renowned Las Brisas Restaurant where we would meet up with
Executive Sous Chef Pascal Gresser for a final goodbye. We had an outstanding
sumptuous breakfast that included many items from chef attended stations for
omelets, griddle cakes and waffles. All of Pastry Chef Nelson's fresh baked
specialties were featured including assorted Danishes and croissants. Tropical
fresh fruits flourished including papaya and mango in bite-sized sections so as
to be used to top off your cereals. We lingered as long as we could trying to
absorb as much of our pleasant experience as possible and over coffee we came
to the conclusion that there is a bright future for cuisine at El Conquistador
due to this motivated, dedicated team of experienced creative
artists. |
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“I was impressed with the dynamic youthful confidence of Chef
Rolf when I first met him
while exchanging ideas as we sat outside at the
Café Bella Vista.” ~ JLL |
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by
John & Phyllis Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2005 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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