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| Abu
Dhabi, United Arab Emirates |
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World Level
Perfection - Society
October 1st - 2006 |
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7 Stars
& 6 Stripes
Hotel & Service |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| Once upon a time there was an enchanting palace, a
wonder to behold for all who ventured through its magnificent gates - and as
one of our Seven Stars And Stripes® reviewer teams, we were well on the way
to discovering it for the first time. We landed at Abu Dhabi International
Airport after a most relaxing and luxurious flight with
Etihad Airways, the official national airline of the United Arab Emirates. The landing had been a flawlessly executed experience and our suitcases were at our disposal within minutes. |
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| Passport control and customs
were most professional and treated us with the greatest of respect. As the
gates of the arrival hall swung open, a well-dressed gentleman of eloquent
demeanor, established eye contact within a spilt second and welcomed us by our
last name. He turned out to be our butler and he guided us with great ease
through the crowd to two white
Maybach
stretch limos that were waiting for us at the main entrance. Flying in from
Northern Europe, this radiant blue sky and already hot temperatures at 7 am,
got us all excited in the hope for a great sunny day. The country is kissed by
the sun with more than 360 days of blue sky, Abu Dhabi is a paradise just
waiting to be discovered by the western world. My photographer
Arno
Goudschaal and I decided to travel in one limo together. The drivers were
dressed in white uniforms while my
butler
Subhojit was dressed in pale gold. |
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| Before we got on the way, Subhojit opened my car door
and offered me an iced towel on a silver tray so that I was able to refresh
myself, then he closed my door carefully walked round the limo from behind and
opened my photographer's door where he repeated the most appreciated gesture.
We arrived in Abu Dhabi during the time of Ramadan, where the practicing person
will not consume food or drink from sunrise to sundown. During Ramadan the
non-practicing guests from anywhere in the world are asked to respect this time
of fasting until arrival at the Emirates Palace. |
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| Subhojit apologized profusely for not being able to
offer us a drink during the drive to the Emirates Palace, which was really not
a problem since the hotel was close by. The
world
outside seemed incredibly distant as Abu Dhabi, once a desert has been
rather recently transformed into a city of skyscrapers with lots of green. Over
120 million trees have been planted in the parks of Abu Dhabi. The cosmopolitan
city features malls, boulevards and promenades and is recognized worldwide
today for great shopping, featuring every luxury designer brand possible and
offers bargains for gold and jewelry. |
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After all it was the fastest twenty minutes
I’ve ever spend in a Limo and the only sorrow I had was that we
couldn’t use the two lovely
Robbe
& Berking 925 Sterling Silver champagne flutes. These just over half a
million dollar custom designed Maybachs were of amazing luxury and great style,
equipped with two TV sets and decorated with
fleshly-cut
red roses. Fairytales came to life when the Emirates Palace came into
sight. I cannot describe my first impression other then surreal, a combination
of Utopia & Thousand and One Night. |
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| This three billion dollar resort-hotel has the
reputation to be the most expensive hotel ever built to date, considering that
it features close to four hundred accommodations. It will take your breath
away, as it did take ours.
We
were welcomed with an almost overwhelming affection and were accompanied to
a dedicated elevator that brought us directly to our
Palace
suites on the seventh floor. |
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My butler was already
expecting us in our main dining room and after the entire entourage was settled
a
sparkling
cider was served. The 'Bateel' juice (which means 'young palm shoot') is
produced by the prominent Sudeiry family, using dates from their private farms
in Al Ghat, a central area with an ideal climate and soil for growing dates.
Dates and their juices are truly one of natures most delicious and nutritious
power foods and drinks. As we looked around our accommodations, we realized
that combined they were over seven thousand three hundred square foot (almost
seven hundred square meters). |
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| Our
palace
suite was the combination of three private apartments and was basically a
smaller palace within the larger one. Each had its own spacious living areas
and a master bedroom with one elegant
dining
‘room’ (serving up to ten), a main
sitting
room, each of which could be entered through one main entrance hall.
The
bedrooms were decorated in gentle tones of pale gold, silver leaf and rich
marble, featuring spacious baths, including couples Jacuzzis and rain forest
showers. |
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| Now I was given time
alone to freshen up while my butler Subhojit unpacked my Rimowa suitcases
expertly. I took a 'refreshing' shower (never got the water to more than barely
warm, unfortunately) with
marvelous
spa amenities by Hermès, a timeless and appreciated fragrance
available all over the world. After I slipped into my oversized embroidered
soft, chic, white bathrobe I walked into the living room and opened the doors
out onto
the
balcony. The resort is located on a natural desert peninsula displaying one
of the finest white sandy beaches the world has to offer and is surrounded by
pristine, azure waters, which I bet are bursting with an abundance of marine
life. |
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| “We
felt as we were living in a fairy tale.” ~ TB |
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| Finally, I was scheduled for a
grand
tour of the hotel and must thank the women and especially
Nadine
for the most informative tour. First of all a little bit of history. This
fairytale peninsula was a dessert until four decades ago. The Emirates Palace,
which is owned by the Government of Abu Dhabi, was designed by WATG (Wimberly
Allison Tong & Goo) and opened its magnificent gates in early 2005 after a
three-year building phase. This international project employed a work force of
approximately twelve thousand people, representing forty-three
nations. |
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| WATG is one of the leading hospitality design firms
world-wide. The group has created a few of the world's most famous resort
hotels including Atlantic - the Leela Palace Kempinski, Bangalore - The
Venetian Resort Hotel & Casino, Las Vegas - and the Mansion at MGM Grand in
Las Vegas; just to name a few. Kempinski with infinite experiences in managing
legendary properties (see Adlon in Berlin, Germany and the
Baltschug in Moscow, Russia; just to name a few) operates the Emirates Palace. The design of this empire incorporates traditional Arabian elements such as the 60-meter tall Grand
Dome and 114 smaller domes over the entire palace, held in the natural
colors that are found in the Arabian Desert. |
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I was told that the Emirates
Palace employs circa two thousand staff members, representing fifty different
nationalities, reflected also in the taste of the international cuisine offered
in the restaurants with one hundred and fifty chefs on premises. We found out
that thirteen different kinds of marble imported from China, Italy, India and
Spain are constructed within these illustrious halls - lit by a thousand and
two sparkling Swarovski chandeliers. We took another elevator (there are a
total of one hundred and forty elevators available throughout the entire
building) to the
Blue
Room. An understatement, indeed. The painting of the
seven
horses represents the seven United Arabic Emirates, I was told. The UAE or
'Emirates' are: Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Dubai, Fujairah, Ras al-Khaimah, Sharjah, and
Umm al-Quwain. We passed by seventeen exclusive shops (found at all different
locations) like Rolex, Damas, Rodeo Drive, Paris Gallery; just to mention a
few. |
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| The
Emirates
Palace features quite a large and most advanced
conference
facilities, besides it is perfectly positioned on a global scale. Their
state-of-the-art
auditorium
accommodates twelve hundred people and allows conventions for a thousand people
with technical capabilities of translating simultaneously into eight different
languages. It became evident that the Emirates Palace offers the most
magnificent, technologically advanced and press-friendly conference and meeting
facilities in the Middle East. The luxurious grand ballroom, which is divisible
into three sections, has a total seating capacity for two thousand eight
hundred people. |
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| We were scheduled for a lunch meeting at the Le
Vandome Brasserie with Hotel Manager Arild Sjoedin and Director of Food &
Beverage Rod Leffler. Both well-dressed gentlemen approached us at once with
great ease and solid handshakes. Arild Sjoedin is from Norway and Rod Leffler
from Germany and both are fluent in English and German besides their native
languages. We got to understand that the most common language throughout the
resort is English though we overheard staff conversing in German as well as
many other foreign languages with the guests. |
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| A highly professional,
charismatic person who leads well, but is also very interesting. Sjoedin is the
kind of man who dives for oysters and appreciates Neptune's most succulent
foods just the way I like it, with a little bit of the fresh seawater. Besides
Sjoedin, who is married with children, is part of the private '8th Club', which
was founded by a group of eight men during college years. Today they are a
group of highly educated gentlemen, who live and work all over the world, but
come together once a year to share their experience and help each other with
what ever one might need. The lunch cuisine was exceptional and to sum it up -
chef de cuisine
Steffen
Gube, who we meet briefly, is fabulous. Gube came from the highly
recognized Kempinski Adlon in Berlin, Germany and I am looking forward to a
more extensive review of his highly creative, delicious work. |
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“The
service staff was clearly aiming to please,
each guest treating as
royalty.” ~ TB |
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| Before we took the plunge into the amazing 'West Wing
Pool' we changed quickly into our swimming trunks at the spa, which my butler
had miraculously foreseen we would need. I ran to the picture prefect beach and
jumped into its bathtub warm, crystal clear, turquoise blue waters. Most
delightful and definitely a safe beach for scuba diving and swimming! The fine
white, neatly combed sand of the lagoon reminded me on the beaches of Aruba.
The precious natural saltwater lagoon, which is partially enclosed, has an
awesome sandy bottom. |
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| As I emerged from the pleasantly carrying, salty
waters of the Arabian Gulf, my butler quickly handed me fluffy body towels and
then another cool, refreshing face towel on a silver tray. We walked over to
the
pools.
While pools as entertainment have long been standard practice at world resorts,
the term ‘pool’ seems no longer adequate here since this is rather to
be considered a fabulous
water
garden facility, featuring an enormous variety of formal and fun water
activates, including a
jet
propelled lazy river for entertainment. How can one possibly resist a water
slide? I remembered the days I would spend with my family in water parks and
all the fun we had! So Arno and I went on the big water slides, and yes, it was
exciting. The water was really clear and everywhere perfectly temperatured.
Moreover, lifeguards were ever present ;)! |
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| During the time or Ramadan,
the non-practicing guest will be easily accommodated at the pool with drinks
and snacks under AC'd tents. We had a freshly pressed fruit juice at the tent
with Recreation Manager Devon Graham, a gentleman from Australia. Orange, Mango
& Pineapple has always been one of my favorites; this one was over the top
delicious, besides healthy! I would consider the
West
Wing Pool gardens as the more active, fun facilities while the East Wing
Pools are more serene, as we should later on discover. Within the
blink-of-an-eye the sun was down and our stomachs reminded us that it would
pretty soon be time for dinner. |
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| My butler, who I am convinced can read my mind,
appeared out of the blue with a big smile and a perfectly chilled bottle of Dom
Pérignon '95 in a silver cooler next to our luxurious lounge chairs for
an inspiring start for the upcoming Dégustations Menu that was planned
for 8 pm at the Sayad Restaurant. Head Butler Subhojit Banerjee is a member of
the 'Guild of Professional English Butlers' and 'International Guild of
Butlers'. |
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| Abu
Dhabi, U.A.E |
|
Extraordinary
October 1st - 2006 |
|
5 Stars
& 5 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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As I approach the Sayad Restaurant for my pre-arranged
dinner reservation, I begin to notice a serene change filter through me in the
form of a sort of "rapture of the deep". My feet follow a turquoise path
conjuring up a curious feeling of strength with a dose of remarkable
anticipation. The figures on the rug give me the first hint of fluid motion as
images of dolphins moving through cerulean waves capture my imagination. The
mood is further set as indirect lighting sheds curtains of abyss-blue color,
deepening my earlier sensations of amusement and mystique. I remind myself that
I am still at sea level; or am I? I prepare for the unexpected as I
unconsciously take a deep breath and enter this aqueous zone.
"It's all
about water" I remark to Arno our photographer, as we descend into a Persian
Gulf version of Neptune's world. We stroll past large aquariums filled with
animated characters seemingly out of some kind of Disneyesque feature film.
Another tank is filled with live crustaceans just waiting to be arranged in
some artistic fashion on the dinner plates of this evening's bill of fare.
"Even the flowers are floating in water" remarked Arno after noticing the
unique floral arrangements strategically accentuating the Spartan furniture.
All along I'm wondering if we'll somehow meet the mermaid that runs this
operation. |
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| "Good evening" came a
soothing female voice from somewhere above the waves. "My name is Belinda and I
would like to show you to your table" she continues. We fall into line behind
Belinda as she takes us past an interesting display of some very distinctive
bottles of wine made to look like they are floating underwater. Next, we pass a
mound of ice topped with several tins of Iranian Caviar producing a certain
eagerness to reach our table and a chance for us to sample this bounty from the
Black Sea. |
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As we reach our table I get the strong urge to 'come
up for air' after our spin through Sayad Restaurant. Belinda hands us our menus
and points out the panorama directly out the nearby window. I immediately begin
to understand how the views of the gorgeous Gulf coastline and the beach can
induce a longing for the freshest caught seafood professionally prepared by
Sayad's culinary team. We are informed that Chef de Cuisine Shane O'Nell has
instructed his team to 'make every effort to impress'. Our confidence is that
Chef O'Nell's stated philosophy of ". . . bringing my passion on food from
Europe to Abu Dhabi treating all diners to a magical experience . . . " will
come to fruition.
To start with, we are presented with a 'Greetings from
the Kitchen' of Iranian Caviar along with all the accoutrements that go
with it in as sort of mini-buffet of delicacies. We can only use a 'mother of
pearl' spoon with which to scoop up the fine grey colored roe. It is essential
to use a non-metallic spoon when serving caviar, as it will prevent the roe
from acquiring a metallic taste. We notice the sublime nutty taste with which
to enjoy a fluted glass of Dom Perignon Vintage 1998, a seductive wine
laced with elegance and grace. It appears pale yellow in the tall glass with a
floral bouquet leaving trails of soft spice and nutty nuances thereby making it
the perfect caviar wine. We relish our welcoming course and continue to sip the
golden mousse while noticing servers with white gloves pulling chairs and
catering to many business-type guests from all over the world. |
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Our next course arrives it is
Timbale of Citrus flavored Salmon Tatar, Beluga Caviar with Saffron
Dressing. The delicate flavor and texture of the salmon seems to be
supported by the addition of citrus contrasting with the slightly salty black
caviar in a gorgeous assemblage of colors and textures. We now have a chat with
Sommelier Ajwad Ponismail about the difficulty that the local import
regulations impose on the ability to accumulate an extensive wine assortment.
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| Right now, it appears that the Emirates Palace is in a
mode of carefully building up the wine inventory little by little into a
formidable collection. Meanwhile we were expecting the next course of
Risotto of Maine Lobster and Scottish Langoustines with Soft Herbs to be
paired with an Australian Andraos Bros Olde Winilba Semillon-Sauvignon
Blanc. It was clear from the start that this was an exceptional partnership
in that the wine offered two delightfully well-suited varietals that
complimented each other and offered tropical fruit and citrus to support the
shellfish duo. |
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| Our server Anil returned to
clear the 'Robert Welch' silverware to prepare us for the main course of
Sautéed Sea Scallops with Bloody Mary Sorbet for me and New Zealand
Red Snapper with Prawn Gnocchi, finished with Fennel Barigoule for Arno.
Overall, both presentations proved to be visually original in design and color
presentation. The scallops developed a delicious caramelized surface from being
pan-seared quickly thus browning the large meaty ovals. |
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| “Overall, both presentations proved to be visually original in
design and color presentation.” ~ TB |
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The supporting rendition of a Bloody Mary had all the
trappings of the spicy mixture used in the famous cocktail but was presented as
a shaved ice sorbet forcing me to reflect on whether or not I had ever
experienced it before. I had not! All that was missing was the vodka. Our take
on the New Zealand red snapper forced us to reconsider the meaning of seafood
presentation. Chef O'Nell's method of pan-searing the filet skin down first
before baking to finish it off, provided for a crispy skin followed by the soft
juicy inner core of the delicate white flesh. All the while, the entire dish
was presented with all the vegetables surrounding the filet with mini-carrot
tops in a sort of 'Stonehenge-like' arrangement. A bottle of Laroche
Chardonnay 2005 that comes from a family that has been making wines in
Burgundy since the 1850's was the obvious choice. This Chablis style wine
produced a golden luminescence when held up to the light, which fades to
crystalline silver but displays good concentration. It has a nose of white
flowers, apples and dried fruits with a fresh vivacity that lingers after
aeration. The honey-like texture works to hold the same fruit nuances on the
palate so that it compliments the seafood extremely well.
By this time, we
have seen the type of work that Chef de Cuisine Shane O'Nell and his talented
team can do and we are impressed. It is now the occasion for Executive Chef de
Patisserie Pascal Clair to give us a sense of what he is all about. He offers
us his notable rendition of Jivara Chocolate Parfait with Berry Crumbles and
Ginger Ice Cream with a wine pairing of Robert Weil Kiedrich Graffenberg
Auslese from the Rheingau, Germany. |
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It is a stroke of brilliance
that Pastry Chef Pascal Clair uses the unique Jivara chocolate for his
masterpiece. Unlike most milk chocolate, it will linger on your palate longer
as it melts, and you notice hints of caramel and vanilla laced with a touch of
malt. This chocolate is made with a special estate blend of cocoa beans from
South America and the results is a distinctive flavor rich in cocoa but not
overly sweet. |
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Chef Clair uses the chocolate to sculpt his creation
into three diverse sections each with its own personality and flavor profile.
The auslese from Robert Weil offered clean, very ripe botrytis defining it as
balanced with a concentration of sweetness as if it were on the verge of
becoming a spätlese.
We decide to retire now into a cappuccino
"Emirates Palace" style with real 14-carat gold flakes sprinkled on top instead
of the traditional cinnamon. I felt like I should try to skim off the flakes
and take them home with me but calmer heads prevailed. At that very moment, as
if as an encore there is a flurry of activity and out of the kitchen comes our
server with another of Chef Clair's carefully constructed art pieces. This one
is referred to as the White Chocolate Wave with Petit Fors and Apple
Gelee that looks almost too good to eat. We enjoyed immensely all that was
presented to us tonight at the Sayad Restaurant and decided to take a stroll
into the neighboring Cigar Bar for an aromatic Cuban and a Remy Martin XO. What
a way to end an evening! "Leila Sa'eeda" Good night in Arabic! |
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| A dinner of the kind we’d just experienced
demands a good old cognac and a cigar afterwards. We choose the
Havana
Club reminding us on traditional gentlemen clubs from by-gone eras; darker
colors, cozy woods and soft leathers. The
Havana
Club boasts a selection of the world's finest spirits and most certainly
cognacs and cigars. These were very well chosen selections with the discerning
connoisseurs in mind. |
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| Thorsten
Buehrmann & Rodderich-Marc Leffler & Arild Sjoedin |
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| I don’t smoke, but having traveled on Cuba
extensively myself, I know all about hand-rolled Cuban cigars, and the
Havana
Club offers the finest selections to be had. Believe me when I say that we
were all up for Cognacs but ended up with Mojitos, the kind where you saliva
for more. Sascha, the bar manger from Germany was a master of his trade. I
ignored the pretty chocolate box on my nightstand later that night
completely. |
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| When my phone rang the next
morning with perfect timing for my wake up call, I was already conversing with
my office in New York over my laptop. There is an eight-hour time difference
between NYC and UAE. My secretary got all excited over the fact that her idol
Jennifer Lopez had stayed at the Emirates Palace already. I felt truly
refreshed after I'd experience a
perfect
eight hour sleep and the only regret I had was that my wife was not able to
accompany me on this trip. The entire resort is on WIFI throughout and probably
the most high-tech resort hotel I have ever experienced, but no
‘Skype’. The explanation is simple; a monopoly of the phone company!
However, the Emirates Palace might be equipped with the most advanced high-tech
conference facilities world wide. |
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| Morning came, and I must say that there is nothing
more self-indulgent than a
breakfast
served in your own formal dining room. There was no debate on eating breakfast
in bed, and soon you will understand why. The dining room table was
set
formally with the finest bone china I have so far been served on in a hotel
setting. The fine china by
Bernardaud
of France was 24-carat gold leaf, paper thin and beautiful. The overwhelming
presentation could hardly be considered as romantic and was prepared to be
tried one plate at a time. My palate was spinning. It was the time of the day
when cuisine directors get a chance to set the tone for their guest for the
rest of their day. There are talented international chefs and bakers preparing
exclusive breakfast cuisine from various parts of the world. Their diverse
culinary expertise and specialty dishes will definitely please the most
discerning breakfast lovers. |
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A magic selection of freshly
baked rolls, breads and
Danishes
included several aromatic and delicious Arabic versions. On the `Milk
Menu´ were all sorts of dairy and non-dairy items offered for coffees,
teas and cereals (heated to your specific liking); including camel
milk!
The
stream
of international breakfast items was ever flowing, including authentic
Arabian dishes of well-balanced mellow and subtle tastes gently complimented
with exotic seasonings and herbs. Any palate will feel most
satisfied. |
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| I must praise Palace Operations Manager Dhansukh Ramji
Matgaonkarthe and his well trained, ever present
team
of servers which presented this early morning feast as a stellar
production. |
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| We are delighted to have met
with
GM
Noel Massoud who directs a team of highly trained professionals with great
ease. It seems a well-balanced cultural union of world-class staff, indeed.
Kempinski announced the appointment of this 'seasoned hotelier' in early 2005 -
before that Noel Massoud managed the InterContinental Abu Dhabi for eight
years. Massoud, of Jordanian nationality, has accumulated over thirty years of
hospitality industry experiences in which he has worked for over eighteen years
as GM for the respected InterContinental hotel group. |
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| In addition to his native Arabic language, he is
fluent in English, German and French. We conversed almost entirely in English
and German. Massoud is married and has a great passion for diving. His goal is
to ensure that the Emirates Palace lives up to its potential of bringing a new
dimension to the hospitality industry in the UAE and the world. Massoud has
committed himself to another milestone success of the Kempinski group, Europe's
oldest luxury hotel group, and he is well on the way in creating a global
awareness of Abu Dhabi as travel destination. |
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| As we shook hands at the GM’s office door after
an inspiring meeting - Subhojit appeared immediately, as if he knew, to guide
us back to our accommodations. As we passed an elegant bar counter he said that
this was actually the caviar bar. At that moment I mentioned that in my private
bar in the suite was still sitting a perfectly chilled bottle of
Dom
Perginon 1995 and that's all I said. Now how this happened, I don't know
and I probably will never find out - but - as
Subhojit
opened the door to our elegant sitting room, the DP ‘95 was expecting
us in a perfectly chilled silver cooler, eagerly waiting to be popped –
served with exquisitely chilled ‘Whole
Duck Foie Gras’. |
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| “How
can you possibly top that?” |
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| I said to Arno as the
champagne flutes clinked, enjoying the private moment and the taste of the
delicacies. Then Subhojit asked us to follow him on an excursion. He mentioned
briefly that he had prepared something special for us, that's all. At a main
entrance, he opened the doors to a
BMW
745 IL and we hopped in, not knowing what to expect and our adrenaline was
up. Within minutes we arrived at one of the palace's private
helicopter
landing port and boarded a Eurocopter EC 130 with
Captain
Salem Al-Kayoumi already expecting us at the chopper. Our pilot, who turned
out to be the Chairman of Falcon Aviation Services, took off rather gently -
however our adrenaline was once again pumping strong. |
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| The helicopter was designed for sightseeing trips with
extra large windows that allow great views from every seat to take photos. We
circled briefly over the
enormous
Emirates Palace and the magnificent
skyline
of Abu Dhabi, then the fascinating one-of-a-kind coastline. Within ten
minutes flying time we saw a multitude of small romantic islands, surrounded by
calm, turquoise waters; two hundred islands there are, Captain Salem explained.
We landed on one of these small private islands assigned exclusively to Falcon
Aviation to find a prefect little paradise prepared for us with wonderful
refreshments.
These two hundred islands will make a perfect getaway for travelers from all
over the world. |
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| “Abu Dhabi, Where Aruba meets the Maldives!” ~
TB |
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| On the way back from the
islands we discovered from the helicopter a rather
large
tent between the Emirates Palace and the peaceful bay. Inquiring, we were
informed that during Ramadan when practicing people are fasting, a feast is
then prepared for sundown at the tent, which we should experience first hand
after our dinner. |
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| But for now we jumped into the still waters of the
'East
Wing Pools' for a refreshing dip and a little R & R. We entered the
Mezzaluna dining room refreshed, relaxed and hungry a couple of hours
later. |
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| Abu
Dhabi, U.A.E |
|
Society -
Extraordinary
October 1st - 2006 |
|
6 Stars
& 5 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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|
The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| "Each time you open a door around here it seems like
you enter a new world" our photographer Arno said as we entered the Emirates
Palace restaurant, Mezzaluna. After all, it was last night that we crossed the
threshold of the underwater world of Sayed Restaurant for a very impressive
display of culinary perfection featuring splendid seafood creations. Tonight we
are told to prepare for gastronomic journey through the cuisine capitals of
Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast, Sicily and Sardinia for a true Italian experience. A
quick look up revealed a cavernous cathedral-like ceiling structure reminding
us both of an ethereal Italian monastery. It is there at the entrance to
Mezzaluna that we met Restaurant Manager Shambhu Acharya who welcomed us with a
hearty "Buona Sera!" before offering us a quick detour through the restaurant
while he shed some light on what to expect. As we stroll to our table, we pass
a spotless open kitchen complete with a wood-fired brick oven and if it wasn't
for the busy kitchen team moving smoothly around their domain, it could have
been the ideal show-kitchen for a TV cooking series. |
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| We arrive at our table and
suddenly it all makes sense. There, in front of us was a view of the pristine
beach and beyond that the Persian Gulf as if juxtaposed on the canvas of a
great Italian master. We look at the walls around us filled with gondolas
depicted floating under Venetian bridges and then out to the beach again in a
surreal game of scene changing between two paradises. A very warm feeling of
assurance overcame me as I was handed the menu and I decided to remain, at
least for the time being, in a sort of Italian-style suspended animation.
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| We are told that the Executive Sous Chef of Mezzaluna,
Luigi Antonio Piu had come to Emirates Palace via his humble origins from the
village of Sassari, in Sardinia, Italy and brought with him all the earthy
recipes from his life growing up with his parents. 'It doesn't get any better
than that" I mused as the thought of a dine-around Italy featuring Chef Luigi's
innovations seemed like the perfect way to go. |
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From the first, it was
decided between Arno and I to sample as many of Chef Luigi's creations as
possible so that we could get a sort of highlighted tour of Italy's centers of
cuisine. In Italy we were told, every dinner begins with the basics: bread and
oil. At so it was that a basket of warm crusty rustic bread was placed in front
of us along with olive oil; but not just any olive oil. We were given the
opportunity to choose from a selection of Italy's finest extra virgin first
cold pressing olive oils with the emphasis placed on a myriad of olive
varietals. |
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| I think I whispered something like "I could live on
bread and oil alone", to which our attentive server dutifully asked "More
bread?" I guess I just can't keep a secrete. Sampling oils is much like
sampling fine wines; there is a method and an art to it. Not all olive oils are
created equal and one of the first things you learn is that different olive
varietals produce different characteristic flavor profiles. |
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| The finest olive oils for
tasting and flavoring are the 'first cold-pressed extra virgin'; they are known
for their floral bouquet aroma, and the slightly acidic and spicy notes on the
palate. Arno and I had a ball sampling as many as we could all the while using
the great assortment of Tuscan breads and rolls for dipping platforms. My
special way of delivering the goods was to doll-up the oil with salt, cracked
peppercorn and shaved Parmesano Reggiano cheese. Ahhhh! Italian heaven in Abu
Dhabi. |
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| Our server looked over at us and decided that it was
time now to bring on the "Greetings from the Kitchen" before it was too late
and there in front of us was placed Composition of Pan Fried Goose Liver
topped with Pear, Timbale of Polenta with Dried Beef and White Asparagus in
Cheese Fondue. It was a velvety smooth melt in your mouth rendition of foi
gras that had been caramelized from the start in the pan thereby obtaining that
wonderful crisp surface of glazed essence effectively enveloping a rich
interior of deep earthy flavor. Northern Italians relish polenta as Americans
enjoy their potatoes, with fervor. |
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The addition of dried beef to
the polenta allows for a display of some of the specialty items produced in the
region close to the Swiss border. I'm sure that this is why Chef Luigi also
included white asparagus and cheese fondue in his composition to fully round
out the presentation as a perfect example of this area nestled in the
Dolomites. An appropriate wine paring had to be the Pinot Grigio Friuli
Venezia Giulia 2005 offering fine flowery and fresh fruit scents in a
balanced and gentle medium body that finishes with crisp and dry spice.
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| Antipasto was next on the agenda producing a course of
Tuna Tartar with Infusion of Basil. What more can be said about tuna
tartar except to remind you that you must start with the very freshest catch
and you must only use ahi tuna (sashimi grade) to produce the desired results.
Chef Luigi obviously has a great fishmonger for his seafood purchases as the
tuna's only aroma was that of the ocean and Chef Luigi's cooking technique
worked wonders to unleash its subtle taste profile. We moved now to an Italian
icon, "La Pasta". |
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| In this case, we were
treated to a regional specialty of Northern Italy consisting of Ravioli
stuffed with Spinach and Ricotta with Lobster Claws and Sea Scallops in light
Sage Sauce. I couldn't help but reflect on the exotic herbal essence of
sage complimenting the fresh spinach and ricotta stuffed ravioli. It worked
remarkably well with the lobster and scallops and we were pleasantly surprised
to be served a couple of glasses of Gavi di Gavi 2005, which is made
from an ancient Piedmontese grape varietal known as Cortese. The wine is crisp,
medium bodied with hints of apple and citrus. We noticed a long clean finish
and surmised that it would make a good summertime white wine, which when you
consider it is summertime all year in Abu Dhabi it is the perfect choice.
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| “...a dish that reflects the very essence of what Italian
cookery is all about.” ~ TB |
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| It was time for the main course to arrive and Chef
Luigi went with a dish that reflects the very essence of what Italian cookery
is all about. Sliced Roasted Veal on Porcini Risotto with Balsamic
Reduction was offered to us and eagerly accepted despite the sated feeling
derived from the abundance of Tuscan bread we had already consumed. This time a
full-bodied Barolo Giacosa Fratelli 2001 was presented along with the
veal entrée making for a spectacular companion with a nice nose of
licorice and cherry. It is very dry and tannic with good structure and rich
vanilla and spice flavors on a medium length finish. Both Arno and I were
especially impressed with Chef Luigi's ability to take a delicate cut of meat
like this veal loin and roast it to perfection as to optimize its ordinarily
mild flavor into a rich three-dimensional affair. |
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As our servers were busy
clearing the table for dessert, we noticed a serving cart being prepared for
the next special event. With white gloves on, the captain approached the table
to start the "Il Dolce" course of Sabayon Amaretto served with Vanilla Ice
Cream and Fresh Fruits right in front of our eyes. The dessert wine chosen
for the occasion was Vinsanto Chianti Classico 1995, a traditional wine
of friendship and hospitality. The ancient method of making this wine has
produced a dessert wine with a beautiful deep golden color with amber hues. The
intense and fragrant bouquet leads to a full and lingering taste of almonds and
raisins with a great finish. It was all we could do to push away from the table
and get up now. |
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| We felt reassured that all the desserts are created
and prepared under the direction of Chef de Patisserie Pascal Clair, a man of
incredible talent. We witnessed some of his original delicate crystalline sugar
sculptures and of course his magnificent arrangements of Petit Fors. It seems
that this gifted team of culinary artists assembled here at Emirates Palace
could only have been accomplished under refined skilled leadership.
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| After dinner we would have normally finished the
evening with cognacs at the cigar bar, but since it was Ramadan we were invited
to attend ‘Iftaar’ - which means breaking of fasting during Ramadan,
under the tent. Always brilliantly conceived, this event has become
increasingly prestigious over the years amongst world travelers. There, in the
largest tent of the UAE the most creative Arabian feast was
showcased. |
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| Thorsten
Buehrmann & Mohammad Farraj & Mathias Weigmann |
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| This was my first experience of this kind and I
consider it a superb event that one must not miss. It became evident that this
was an enthusiastic participation for many affluent people from all over the
world besides practicing locals. Everyone was well dressed, some traditional.
All new arrivals were greeted with warm smiles by the hosts and hostesses and
offered a
special
drink, rather unusual for the European taste. |
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| Supposedly, it refuels
the energy of the person who has feasted all day; I must say that I liked the
taste. Matthias Weigmann, Assistant F&B Director was helpful explaining the
flavors of every interesting dish to us. We felt as we were at the centre of
the world, where all cultures meet. Traditional style as well as European
dressed ladies and gentlemen were mingling while listening to a pleasant, live
oriental band. As I smoked the water pipe, I had to think of 'I dream of
Jeannie'. Time seemed to be of no importance. |
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| “I
foresee illustrious visitors from around the world attending these events to
experience the sumptuous pleasures of Arabian nights!” ~ TB |
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| Sometime after midnight, the party was in full swing
and expected to run well into the wee hours, we resigned from all duties and
went back to our suites where Subhojit recommended
drawing
a bath for me. Without a doubt, this bath has been a
unique
experience as well as one of the most relaxing. I had to get a
cigar.
The extraordinary combination of flowers and scented
bubble
bath made it impossible not to think of my wife. |
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| The next morning after a full night's sleep and a
quick breakfast, we were scheduled to meet the management and staff for the
award ceremony. The first time in the history of world hospitality a resort -
hotel would officially receive a full Seven Stars. We were exited. Without a
doubt, our stay at the Kempinski Emirates Palace had been a unique experience,
setting a new milestone for the global hospitality under the expert management
of
GM
Noel Massoud and his hotel manager
Arild
Sjoedin. |
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As accepting the ‘Seven Stars and Stripes Award’ -
GM
Noel Massoud said:
"This is a fantastic achievement for the hotel, and
helps to strengthen our position as
a true world-class resort destination.
Providing customer service beyond expectations is a
daily commitment for us
here, and we are deeply thankful for this recognition." |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal
Editor: Ingrid
Lemme
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola |
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| © 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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