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| Prague -
Czech Republic |
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Society
January - 2011 |
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6 Stars
& 6 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| In the heart of the Renaissance and Baroque quarter of
Mala Strana, the ‘lesser town’ of Prague, amidst the gilded UNESCO
protected buildings and cobble stoned streets lies a well kept secret with the
celestial name of Aquarius. Like the zodiac sign of the water carrier, Aquarius
Restaurant is the culinary representation of ‘ideas flowing from an
unrestrained mind’ in terms of creativity and world-class fare. This is
not our first experience with Acquarius, but great lasting impressions are hard
to eradicate from the mind. While competition in the rarefied world of
gastronomy is unrelenting and sometimes discouraging,
Tomáš
Sysel the Executive Chef at Aquarius, sets himself apart from the rest as
if he were a Jazz master combining disparate notes into a harmonious melody.
Chef Tomáš seems to have the ability to take the simplest of
ingredients and elevate them to somewhat of an art form, while realizing that
his culinary ethos of ‘pleasing while nourishing’ is the foundation
of all his work. |
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| Enlightenment like this
requires a quick mind as well as a support staff of like-minded thinkers,
poised and self-assured with the same goals of guest satisfaction through
service and cuisine. For our dining experience this time around, it seems as if
they have opened their culinary ‘black box’ to show us that service
remains a priority while Chef Tomáš’s cookery is more intense,
exciting and motivated. |
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| Shortly after Restaurant Manager Tomas Kudlacek
seated us in the ornately decorated restaurant, sommelier Toms Carvan shared
his thoughts as to the wine selection for us to sample during the tasting menu.
To begin with, while sipping on a fluted glass of Prosecco di Valdobiadenne
Canevel, an amuse bouche of Wild Mushroom Soup with Truffle Oil
became the centerpiece briefly while we contemplated the sparkler. With live
music wafting in the background setting the mood and sending us back to the
Renaissance, we eagerly awaited our next course. Goat Cheese baked in Crispy
Crêpe with Sundried Tomatoes soon arrived as the first of many
courses offering a tantalizing insight into the creative mind of Chef
Tomáš and his team. The wafer-thin crêpe, in reality a
vehicle for the pungent warm softened goat cheese delivered its package with
gourmet’s delight. Our suggested wine, Gavi di Gavi La Scolca 2009
offering a refreshing nose-ticklingly fizzy bone dry and crisp acidity, paired
nicely with the goat cheese. |
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Next we were treated to Home
made Tortellini stuffed with Quail in Saffron Bouillon, the product of a
culinary crossroad, so to speak as many cultural things in this part of the
world became intertwined during long ago periods of Empire building. A bottle
of Pouilly-Fuissé Bouchard Père et Fils 2008 brought a
soft, light well-balanced ripeness to the palate within a straw yellow liquid
envelope. |
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| When engaged in a tasting menu, portions should be
small and rightly so since it should be a modern expression of balance and
flavor. Chef Tomáš worked hard to keep those portions enticingly
the right size while concentrating the entire focus on how it affects the
palate. This made our next course all the more delightful; Pan Seared Tuna
with Light Pepper Sauce, Fresh Spinach Leaves and Sautéed Potatoes
demonstrated that genuine taste has no imitation. Cooked to a near perfect
medium rare, every morsel of this ahi grade tuna was greeted by an eager palate
savoring its fresh ocean flavor. Contrary to the oft repeated axiom that red
wine goes with meat and white goes with fish, sommelier Toms Carvan suggested
Pinot Noir Clos Alexandra, Domaine J. Prieur 2007. With bright acids and
soft tannins it was the right ticket to accompany the tuna. |
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| For an intermezzo, Chef
Tomáš sent us Light Mango Sorbet with a Drop of Vodka, just
what the palate was waiting for so as to prepare us for the Breast of Duck
Magret with Forest Mushrooms and sauce of duck Foie Gras. The Magret duck
is a cross between a Pekin and Muscovy duck with a truly unique flavored breast
meat and foie gras. It is considered the absolute best tasting duck by many
gourmets and we agree; it was simply delightful. |
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| Impressively, a rather beautifully fashioned and
classically smooth bottle of Chateau Lacoste Borie, Pauillac 2004 came
to our attention so that the terrific unique flavors of the duck could be
complemented properly with soft black fruit and a long luscious finish. For the
finale, the Alchymist Chocolate Plate seemed innocuous enough in name
only, but the presentation made perfect sense in the eyes of the beholder as we
marveled at the assortment of delicate chocolate offerings in all shapes, sizes
and textures. What could be more appropriate than a short shot of Slivovitz
Private Reserve to warm the soul into getting ready for bed.
Congratulations to the whole team at Aquarius Restaurant for a beautiful job
well done. |
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| 2011 - Seven
Stars And Stripes Award - Aquarius Restaurant |
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by
Edmund & Thorsten Buehrmann
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2011 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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