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American Dream Cuisine |
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Baltschug Restaurant |
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Hotel
Baltschug Kempinski, Moscow, Russia |
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Society - Extraordinary June - 2006 |
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6 Stars
& 5 Stripes Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate
Award: Seven Stars and Stripes |
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Our return visit to the Baltchug Restaurant was
preceded by glorious anticipation of enduring respect derived from our
exceptional experience at the end of last year. We were not to be disappointed
as this visit bore all the hallmarks of the regal splendor that has become the
foundation for this dynamic restaurant. It is a setting that is quite honestly
hard to grasp as it is steeped in history and full of visual stimulation. It is
a stage on which Executive Chef Rainer Sigg performs his gastronomic
orchestrations as if he were some sort of 'culinary Tchaikovsky'. It is a
delightful ballet that is preformed nightly under his creative guidance
complete with a supporting cast of characters from his kitchen and restaurant
team. |
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It is always a joy to see
Chef Rainer at the helm of his magnificent kitchen operation, stirring this,
tasting that and leading his team by motivating each member to cultivate his or
her inner greatness. It is no wonder that Sigg has been recognized as one of
the "Top 50 Best Chefs in Europe" according to the latest press releases, which
in turn keeps his restaurant fully booked. Sigg is dedicated to making sure his
guests are 100% happy with his impressive creations thus restoring Baltschug's
reputation among Moscow's leading restaurants. |
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Executive Chef Rainer Sigg performs his gastronomic
orchestrations as if he were some sort of 'culinary Tchaikovsky' ~
TB |
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The sights and sounds of Pink Floyd concert being held
on Red Square fully visible directly below the window by our table, punctuated
our entrance into the Baltschug Restaurant. In a rather surreal setting,
Richard Kleidermann piano music was playing softly in the background while Pink
Floyd performed, all the while effectively silenced by efficient soundproofing.
Restaurant Manager Charles Fouquet provided a warm and honest connection with
us as he checked to see if we were sufficiently comfortable at our table.
Service was professional and seamless but always in the background and for all
practical purposes elegantly European. |
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Thorsten
Buehrmann & Rainer Sigg |
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Word came from the kitchen
that Chef Sigg has asked that menus be removed and we were to be prepared for a
tasting of unprecedented originality. Smiling nervously, our server brought us
a well-chilled bottle of Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial Champagne and
placed it next to our candlelit table. We felt comfort, elegance,
sophistication and a sense of living, breathing historical Moscow. Our first
course was an Amusee Bouche consisting of Terrine of 'Perigord Foie Gras' on
Sauternes Jelly and Marinated Red Wine Pear with side of Brioche. It was
satisfying to know that such a precious substance as the 'Perigord Foie Gras'
was so delicately paired with opposing wine characters further highlighting the
richness and subtle flavor profile of the unique foie gras. |
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Next came Tuna Tartar with Avocado Puree, Spring
Onions fried in Tempura with Marinated Chilli and Ginger where Chef Sigg
mastered the act of focusing on subtle flavors by infusing with exotic spices.
A bottle of Sancerre Comte Lafond, Domaine de Ladoucette, Loire Valley,
Grande Cuvée, vintage 2001 was added to the mix as a perfect
accompaniment. Our palates were sufficiently cleansed by the crisp Sancerre as
we prepared for the next course of Medallions of Lamb with Goat Cheese and
Thyme Crust, Artichokes and Tomato Ragut and Polenta. The
'melt-in-you-mouth' crust covering the lamb delivered sensual moisture from
which lamb juices flowed. An awesome Châteauneuf du Pape Clement,
Grand Cru Classe, Pessac-Léognan 1996 offered a powerful foil for
the lamb. We were seriously impressed with Chef Sigg's masterful interpretation
of a local Russian delicacy, Sturgeon Wrapped in Two Colored Blini set on
Beet Carpacio with Champagne Sauce, a fresh look using traditional
ingredients in unique presentation. It doesn't get any better than that, we
thought until we saw the unobtrusive figure of Sommelier Alexey Mitrafanovsky
approaching with a bottle of Ovation Chardonnay, Joseph Phelps, Napa Valley,
California 2000. All along Mitrafanovsky's expertise was evident through
each course as he perfectly paired the appropriate wine selection as if
gracefully in sync with Chef Rainer. Our dining experience has reiterated
the greatness of Chef Rainer and his team while establishing the further
positioning of the Baltschug Restaurant as a leader in the seriously
competitive world of the culinary elites. |
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Service was professional and seamless but always in the
background and for all practical purposes elegantly European. ~
TB |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal Editor: Ingrid
Lemme
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola |
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© 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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