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NY City is not only famous for its fashion and
Broadway shows or for its sleeplessness, the Big Apple is about cuisine, lots
and diverse as its people. Close to two decades ago there was a man who had a
dream, or shall we say he had a concept? And that very man 'Hanson' has
continually redefined his characterization of a true restaurant experience.
Hanson opened the Blue Water Grill almost a decade ago and it was destined to
become an icon of success…
We arrived at Union Square rather early as a
late night Broadway show was planned after what we thought would be a quick
dinner, a simple review. That was a mistake. The show had to wait, the eclectic
cuisine here will never… |
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The excitement generated by a
restaurant full of well-dressed patrons was further enhanced by the ambiance of
the peaceful influence of its location across from Union Square Park.
We were literally enchanted with the entire experience; placed in a
former loft style bank building, these multilevel dining rooms are quite
attractive. Besides extraordinary people are working in this place. They want
to be there, they love what they do, in front as well as in the back of the
house. Or is it their hobby? For Steve Hanson, the owner, it seems to be
passion, how else can one pick a team as the one we'd experienced the night
when we blew 4 theater tickets for a jazz dinner. |
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Thorsten Buehrmann
Piosczyk & Luis Gabriel Nieto & Douglas Crowell |
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| After being escorted to our table, the stylishly
dressed hostess offered 'house specialty' cocktails in anticipation of our
inquisitive expression as to what would define the Blue Water Grill in its
fluid form. The answer came quickly: "Kentucky Passport" made of Woodford
Reserve Bourbon, green apple puree and peach nectar for me and a "Blue Water"
consisting of Absolut Mandarin, Lime juice and Hypnotiq foam. My German
instincts bode for caution but the irresistible slightly iridescent affect
called for reckless abandon for the moment. Beverage Director and Sommelier
Dana Farner watched with pleasure as we sipped her delightful creations while
scrutinizing the menu. |
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"We enjoyed wonderful jazz standards as background music, never
overpowering
we were able to talk and discuss the menu." ~ TBP |
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One of the standard items
identified with the Blue Water Grill has always been the Shellfish Sampler made
up of chilled shrimp, raw oysters and littleneck clams, scallop ceviche,
chilled mussels, king crab claws and lobster. Of course I had to compare it to
my own creation of similar items stacked three stories high into the "Thorsten
Tower", of which I have had many at various elite locales. This appetizer was
perfectly pared with a sparkling wine Raventos i Blanc "L'Hereu," Cava, Spain
NV, displaying white fruit and citrus aromas with good structure amid fine
pearlage. This refreshing wine proved to be a superb choice for a summertime
aperitif. |
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| We waited eagerly anticipating what Executive Chef
Luis Gabriel Nieto's next move would be and we were not to be disappointed.
Enter Jumbo Sea Scallops with Porcini Mushrooms, Mission Figs and Orange Glaze
for me and Charred Baby Octopus Salad with Japanese Cucumbers, Shiso Leaf and
Ponzu Vinaigrette for Simone. |
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| As we relished our selections
in silence we noticed Dana pouring a crisp clean straw gold Villa Chiopris
Sauvignon Blanc, Friuli, Italy 2004 to match our appetizers. In keeping with
the style of the fresh wines of Friuli, this one offered a pleasant chalky pear
nose and an agreeable bitter finish. |
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With seafood reigning king at
Blue Water Grill, Executive Chef Nieto chose to highlight the catch from
All-American waters. With his next innovation of American Red Snapper with
Caramelized Butternut Squash, Baby Spinach and Pomegranate Drizzle for me and
Pan Seared Coho Salmon with Wild Mushrooms, Swiss Chard, and Chanterelle
Vinaigrette for Simone. |
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| With practically the whole world watching to see if
restaurants will catch on and serve wild varieties of fish, Blue Water has
trumped the competition with American Red Snapper and Coho Salmon, both caught
wild and offering up fresh ocean-like flavors. What was apparent to us was that
there was a sort of symphony of cooperation between the Executive Chef and the
Sommelier to properly pair the most appropriate wine with each delicate
creation. This was again the case with the appearance of the Robert Weil
Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken, Rheinhessen, Germany 1999 for our two dishes.
Notes of white peach and pear wrapped in a sweet-tart blanket of low residual
sugar and acidity proved to work well with the fish. A delicious
wine. |
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| As we savored the wine after
the last few bites of our dinner we rested while the table was being cleared
and reflected on how we had given up our theatre tickets for this fabulously
alluring experience. Great decisions are sometimes best when made impulsively.
The thought occurred to me that one of my favorite parts of any dining
experience was yet to come. The Dessert! Dana approached with two glasses
filled with a wonderfully rich dark red liquid, which turned out to be Niepoort
LBV Port 1999. Dark forest berries define its nose with a hint of mint to add
vibrancy to the long sweet-fruited finish. |
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| Our dessert was a trio consisting of Chocolate Fondue;
Molten Chocolate Cake with Butterscotch Ice Cream and Rosemary Drizzle and
Cherry Tart with Vanilla Yogurt Sorbet left us in awe as we kicked back in our
chairs to savor the rich Port. It was truly a night to remember and we shall be
back soon. |
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| “There is nothing like good Food paired with good Wine and good
Jazz.” ~ TBP |
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| Enjoy your meal |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann (Piosczyk) & Simone Buehrmann
Editor: Ingrid
Lemme
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola |
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| © 2005 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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