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| American Dream Cuisine™ |
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| Restaurant: Caviar Bar & Restaurant |
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| St.
Petersburg - Russia |
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Society - World
Level Perfection
June - 2006 |
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6 Stars
& 7 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes® |
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It was the crystal clear voice of an aria supported by
a classical ensemble that drew me towards the entrance to the restaurant. My
recollection of last year was impressive with visions of friendly and intimate
service pleasantly interwoven with time honored traditional ceremonies from the
elite establishments of days gone by. This is the heart of Mother Russia! This
is Russian society in the midst of passionate delight! This is the Caviar Bar
Restaurant of the Grand Hotel Europe at the height of grace and elegance! This
is an establishment that is cleverly full of life!
I came to discover that
in this fine eatery, guests are not only welcomed but also honored and revered.
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| It is no secret that 27
year-old Executive Chef Yoann Bernard was recently recruited by the indomitable
Dominique Ferchaud to head up the Grand Hotel Europe's two fine restaurants.
Ferchaud had the distinction of being the first chef in Russia to become a
member of the "Maitres Cuisiniers de France", and continues to oversee culinary
operations for GHE. Chef Bernard's gastronomical career began early in his life
in Brittany and continued gathering steam until his most recent stint at the
Michelin-starred Lido in Marbella, Spain. All along his culinary career was
acutely influenced by the diverse cooking styles and traditions of the world
while he concentrated on taking the very best from every chef thus gradually
creating his own unique style. |
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| It was Maitre d'hotel Anton Andreev who suggested that
it would be very good fortune to be seated next to the legendary 'Gargoyle'
fountain, which has been billowing positive liquid vibrations for 130 years or
so. We agreed so long as we were also in close proximity to the fabulous
overflowing vodka display for more immediate gratification. After all, 70 kinds
of Russian vodka including several distinctive infused styles were paired next
to three varieties of black caviar. What could be luckier than that! It was now
time for Chef Bernard to work his magic on us as we began to savor some of the
beluga, sevruga and osetia caviars paired with an especially smooth, deep
chilled bottle of Tsarskay Gold Vodka. |
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After the 'Caspian Treasure'
of assorted caviar, our dining experience continued with Grilled Gambas
Marinated in Ginger and served with Roasted Pineapple and Rosemary, Coconut and
Cardamom Emulsion. Only a bottle of super-chilled Louis Roederer Brut
Premier NV could hold up to the potent cogent flavors in the exotic
emulsion surrounding the delicately grilled gambas. This youthful, fresh but
well-structured wine offers its fine bubbles full of the flavors of red berries
and elegant notes of toasted almonds. |
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| Working from his clean well-structured kitchen, Chef
Bernard together with his highly trained international team sent out the next
course of Seared Brittany Sea Bass with Composition of Vegetables and
Beetroot Puree. As a tribute to his French roots and an appropriate match
for the typically French provincial sea bass preparation, a bottle of
Puilly-Fuisse L'Ancien Prieure Regnard, 2001 was uncorked for the table.
The stony mineral flavors, clean acidity and perfumey personality of this
classic Burgundy white worked to add depth and character to the sea bass and
vegetable concept. |
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Our appetites abated, we
began to crave something sweet to finish the event and decided to introduce a
jolt of heavenly French roasted espresso and cappuccino. As we sipped the rich
steamy golden brown liquid, our server brought us Warm Blinis served with
Fresh Red Berry Coulis over Vanilla ice cream. A couple of deep golden
glasses of Cordier Sautern, 2003 were provided as a complement to this
fine dessert and rightly so as its sufficient amount of residual sugar
elegantly supported the buckwheat blinis.
All along we had the content
feeling of being in the secure hands of a master chef and his competent team.
The consensus is that Executive Chef Yoann Bernard under the capable tutelage
of his mentor Dominique Ferchaud, will succeed at his new outpost at the Grand
Hotel Europe, St. Petersburg the new cuisine capital of Eastern Europe.
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| Thorsten
Buehrmann & Yoann Bernard |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal
Editor: Ingrid
Lemme,
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola |
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| © 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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