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| Caviar
Bar & Restaurant |
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| St.
Petersburg - Russia |
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Society - World
Level Perfection
March - 2007 |
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6 Stars
& 7 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| The prominent display that greeted us at the entrance
of the newly renovated Caviar Bar in the Grand Hotel Europe was of course
caviar. There was several sky blue tins arranged over shaved ice with all the
necessary paraphernalia that makes caviar tasting a Russian ritual. Directly
next to the caviar was another display competing for recognition. Icy cold
bottles of Russian vodka lay waiting for some unsuspecting soul to belly up,
take the challenge, and swig the fiery liquid with each spoonful of
caviar. |
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“A hint of caviar is like a small but perfect diamond; it is a
declaration,
a suggestion, a promise of more to come.” ~ Old Russian
Proverb |
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| A feeling of intimacy and
warmth immediately hits you as you enter the restaurant, all done in fine
‘Russian style’ on an upscale level. A three-piece musical ensemble
of a vocalist supported by violin and bass played softly while we were escorted
to our table. The Raynaud dinnerware in black and gold lay discreetly at
each place setting elegantly framed by the Robbe & Berking
silverware. An open gas fireplace not only added heat at a comfortable
level but also mood inducing light, dancing joyfully around our table with
every flicker. Above our heads and fastened to the wall, a Faberge look-a-like
lamp in the shape of the iconic Russian egg. |
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“The Raynaud dinnerware in black and gold lay discreetly at each
place
setting elegantly framed by the Robbe & Berking silverware.”
~ TB |
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As I glanced around the room, soaking up the
environment, I noticed
Dmitry
Zakharchenko, the Maitre d’ in quiet conversation with some of the
guests while opening a very chilled bottle of Ruinart Champagne. He
finished and strode our way with the very same bottle and two delicate fluted
glasses. This was to be our aperitif and welcome drink as well and Dmitry
dutifully explained to us that Chardonnay, the dominant grape variety used in
all Ruinart cuvees, was the very essence of the Ruinart taste.
Dmitry
now recommended that we let
Executive
Chef Yoann Bernard conjure up a tasting menu for us and we agreed.
The
formidable Caspian Treasure of assorted beluga, sevruga and osetra
caviar served with blinis and all the condiments necessary to make a child out
of the Czar came first. It had all the makings of a pirate’s secrete stash
offering surprises with each mini spoonful. If I had to choose one seafood dish
that stood out it would have to be the Czar style Kamchatka Crab topped
with beluga caviar and champagne sauce. Succulent pieces of sweet crab legs
contrasting delicately with the buttery, salty fresh taste of the grey pearls
of caviar proved to be the right combination of flavors and textures. Surely,
the most unusual entrée served at our tasting was the Siberian Bear Stew
served with vegetable composition and sweet garlic mashed potatoes. I was
amazed that I could have eaten bear although I must say that it had a flavor
reminiscent of venison and texture of beef. After tasting the Siberian Bear
Stew I slowed right down and decided to reserve some room for the dessert.
Russian Blinis stuffed with Berries, champagne sabayon and vanilla ice
cream was the ticket. I couldn’t resist at all even though throughout the
review I ate like it was my last meal and ordered a strong Russian tea with a
snifter of Martell Cordon Bleu cognac. It was exceptionally smooth and
round with a mellowness and complexity no doubt due to high proportion of
Borderies grapes. I closed my eyes and focused on the velvety liquid as it
worked to facilitate my strong desire for restful sleep. |
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| 2007 Award-Hand-Out: Caviar Bar & Restaurant, St. Petersburg -
Russia |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2007 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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