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at
the Kempinski Hotel
Giardino di Costanza
Sicily - Italy |
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Extraordinary
January - 2009 |
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5
Stars & 5 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes® |
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| To dine at Dubbesi is to experience a fascinating mix
of culinary influences dating back to Greek, Moorish and Roman occupations of
Sicily. Executive Chef Salvatore Barbara's deft handling of this treasure trove
of inspiration has made for a lovely dining experience at Dubessi amidst the
vibrant spectacle of an inner garden of olive trees and attractive water
features. What could be better than dining al fresco during summer months, on a
sun terrace surrounded by Arabian gardens with fountains, gazebos and a
magnificent display of Mediterranean flora. One of the first things you notice
upon entering the restaurant is the fabulous wine cellar stocked to the brim
with world-renowned vintages and appellations. The goal is to create an
informal tasting room for diners to enjoy and sample the possibilities for
their dinner. I speculate that being able to observe others sampling wines by
this tradition from within the restaurant would be equally appealing. Upon
entering the restaurant, it was pleasant to see fresh flowers and candles atop
crème colored cotton tablecloths set with asthetically pleasing
Schönhuber Franchi porcelain. We were offered an aperitif of Tasca
d'Almerita Brut, a resonant, aromatic Sicilian sparkler, which we savored
in anticipation of what was yet to come. |
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| An amuse-bouche soon arrived as a surprising rendition
of Sea Urchin Mousse coated with powdered chocolate and hot paprika
rendering its ocean-fresh aroma earthy and silky smooth with a lingering spicy
bite. As an antipasto, we were presented with Grouper Tartare in Green Tea
Sauce, paired with and indigenous white wine from nearby Marsala,
Donnafugata Anthilia made with Ansonica and Catarratto grapes rendering
a lingering sweetness that worked well to complement the subtle flavor of raw
fish. Next was a Zucchini Soup with Norcia Black Truffle and Mazzara Red
Prawns. Local black truffles although not as intense as Périgord,
still offered a refined and pungent flavor for the soup. We relished the wine
selection of Tasca d'Almerita Chardonnay, but found it a little too
overbearing for the subtler notes of the soup and felt it should have been
paired with a more definitive selection. |
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| Our 'primo piatto'
arrived and characteristically turned out to be a pasta selection of House
made Black Pasta with Tuna and Egadi Botargo in Mint Sauce, a typically
Sicilian preparation that features fish roe from the grey mullet, in this case
caught off the Egadi Islands nearby. We relished its unique flavor somewhat
reminiscent of anchovies although the addition of mint worked to temper the
saltiness. A light red wine from Sicily known as Frappato paired with
this course and proved to add a bit of spiciness and lingering red fruits,
which integrated well. |
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“Executive
Chef Salvatore Barbara's creations from this treasure trove of inspiration
assure a wonderful dining experience at the Dubbesi Restaurant..” ~ TB
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| The main course consisted of Roasted Mixed Local
Seafood in Aromatic Herbs and Baby Vegetables in Nubia's Garlic and Red-Berry
Pancake. In a reference to a nearby farming community, Nubia red garlic
offers fragrances and tastes that are generally strong and full of health
properties. The seafood mixture included prawns, octopus and lobster from the
south coastal regions of Sicily. A good match was made with the wine pairing of
Vajasindi Lavico Duca di Salaparuta, displaying a rich intense fragrance
cloaked in an elegant personality of ruby red cherries and primrose.
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| 2009
Award-Hand-Out - Dubbesi Restaurant Hotel Giardino di Costanza |
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| For dessert, a Pistachio Mousse with Forest
Strawberries and Chestnuts appeared as a three-dimensional sculpture
accented by a triangular piece of chocolate and a side of flavorful earthy
chestnut puree. It seems that Pastry Chef Gianni Ciotta has been encouraged to
express his artistic ability when creating his desserts. We were impressed with
the way Chef Gianni was able to resourcefully combine his basic ingredients to
become a work of art. A dynamic dessert wine Donnafugata Ben Rye, made
with indigenous sun-dried Zibibbo grapes from the volcanic island of
Pantelleria, brought with it a dried fruit component laced with apricot and
honey. In this our second experience with Dubbesi, we are able to confirm that
the consistency and creativity of the cuisine and service are on the rise.
Congratulations to Chef Salvatore Barbara and his team for his excellence!
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by Thorsten & Simone Buehrmann
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2009 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes,
Inc. |
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