|
 |
|
| American Dream Cuisine™ |
|
| L'auberge |
|
Landhaus
Wachtelhof,
Bremen / Hamburg, Germany |
|
Society - Extraordinary
August - 2006 |
|
6 Stars
& 5 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
|
The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™ |
|
|
|
| The Höhns family had a vision, which was to
create an oasis of perfection and tranquility in an ideal place not far from
the business centers of Hamburg, Bremen and Hanover. The attraction had to be
for those who were passionate about escaping into an environment of lush
forests and rare moorlands. Add to that the excellent cuisine character profile
established by Executive Chef Daniel Rundholz and you have a convergence of
inescapable qualities that are the précis of Wachtelhof's L'auberge
Restaurant. |
|
| I had quite a jump start to
my dining experience at L'auberge by the introduction of Taittingers
Prestige Rose NV Champagne being poured into an elegant fluted glasse by
the headwaiter Mr. Donner. A shimmering brilliant pink was prominently
displayed through the persistent mousse. I found immense satisfaction in the
intense aromas and flavors of freshly crushed wild raspberries, cherries and
blackcurrants. I was reminded how Chef Rundholz's mantra for freshness and
quality was his main concern by the arrival of the "Greeting from the Kitchen"
of Buffalo Mozzarella Topped with Potato Straw on a bed of Avocado.
|
|
 |
|
| Daniel
Rundholz & Thorsten Buehrmann |
|
|
|
| “Somehow the sensation brought to mind a choreography of aroma
and color.” ~ TB |
|
| It was a delightful example of his motto of creating
light meals while retaining their natural attributes and freshness. Next came a
second "Greetings" of Apple Calvados Ravioli and Two kinds of Tomato
Consume seemingly paired together in some sort of contrasting flavor
battle. Somehow the sensation brought to mind a choreography of aroma and
color. A very fine bottle of Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling,
2004 Kabinett Halbtrocken Weingüter Wegeler Rheingau from perhaps one
of the best villages in the Rheingau, was presented to pair with the next
course of Carpaccio and Tatar of Beef with Shaved Parmesan and Lemon-Olive
Oil Marinade. |
|
 |
|
I was very impressed with the
service of the restaurant staff as they quietly went about their work in an
efficient and professional manner always conveying the feeling that I was in
the caring hands of qualified personnel. The wine list reflected the careful
selections of Mr. Wachter, the knowledgeable Sommelier on the team. He had
previously selected all the wine parings for this event based on careful
consultations with Executive Chef Rundholz and Executive Sous Chef Katja
Hünemörder. As I sipped the remnants of the Rüdesheimer Riesling
the table was cleared and crumbed and there arrived the artfully prepared
Grilled Sea Scallops with White Wine Risotto and Fresh Green Asparagus.
It was arranged over a wispy-light foamed seafood sauce reduction of
concentrated fresh ocean flavors and topped with a crispy-filigreed Parmesan
wafer. |
|
|
| Appropriately, a slender bottle of 2005
Grauburgunder Kabinett Trocken Weingut Joachim Heger, Baden was brought to
the table to compliment the scallops and risotto. This 'pinot grigio' style
wine found itself to be crisp and clean on the palate while offering notes of
granny smith apples and Bartlett pears. It was not time to retreat as Chef
Rundholz now produced a specialty inspired by the namesake in which the
L'auberge Restaurant finds its home. Wachtelhof derives its name from a small
bird or Wachtel, which is known in English as Quail. Chef Rundholz's creation
of Whole Quail with Chanterelle Mushrooms, Potato Puree and Quail Egg is
based upon using the readily available ingredients from the local markets
reflecting an intuitive preparation of a traditional dish. It was to be a
2002 Zweigelt Hochberg, Weingut Josef Tesch, Burgenland Austria that was
effectively brought to the table to be paired with the Quail innovation.
Peering into the deep glass I noticed the dark ruby color highlighted by
streaks of violet. A rich aroma of dark berries wafted upwards and as I sipped
I felt that this is a charming wine, pleasant and full of finesse with a long
excellent finish. |
|
 |
|
| Heiko Kehrstephan, Daniel Rundholz, Joerg Hoehns, Thorsten Buehrmann
|
|
Finally it was time to savor a sweet sensation from
the well-established team of L'auberge. The selection turned out to be
Caramalized Cheesecake with Wild Berry Compote along with a bottle of
2000 Moscato D'Asti, Bricco Quaglia La Spinetta, Italy. A perfect ending
for a perfect evening! The review team of Seven Stars and Stripes was
thoroughly impressed with this hidden gem of gracious perfection tucked away in
the hinterlands of Northern Germany.
Prosit! |
|
|
|
|
by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Bernd Deyerler
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
|
| © 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
|
