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at the
Radisson SAS Palais,
Vienna - Austria |
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Extraordinary -
Society
September - 2006 |
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5 Stars
& 6 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes™ |
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| Like a modern day Holly Martins of the movie "The
Third Man", I find myself immersed in the sort of unique Viennese lifestyle of
significant culture and leisure that is an integral part of this city's poetic
and artistic fabric. From the window of the #1 'Strassenbahn' (Viennese
streetcar) circling the historic and romantic Ringstrasse, I wondered what
keeps me coming back each year to these crossroads of European history. Is it
the coffee flavored intrigue, I ask myself silently as the streetcar slows for
a stop at the 'Wiener Staatsoper' (Vienna State Opera). Soon I will be leaving
this awesome city of overwhelming refinement and extravagance to return to the
Hamptons, but not before a much anticipated visit to one of the city icons of
exceptional service and cuisine, just across from the peace and tranquility of
the shady tree-lined paths of the 'Stadtpark' (City Park). Through my hotel's
concierge I have been able to acquire much sought after reservations for dinner
at the Le Siècle Restaurant, which is situated inside the highly rated
Radisson SAS Palais Hotel directly on the centrally located Ringstrasse.
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| As I exited the streetcar and crossed the Ringstrasse
lined with 'Fiakers' (horse-drawn carriages) I was fascinated by the
magnificence of the building façade in front of me. The Radisson SAS
Palais is a gorgeous building made up of interconnecting 'Palaces' that date
back to the monarchy. Upon entering you are immediately greeted with a cordial
"Grüss Gott" and "Guten Abend". The well-trained staff gives you an
instant feeling of being welcomed into someone's home complete with Strauss
music, Viennese glamour and easy charm. I was scheduled to meet with the
hotel's Operations Manager for a quick tour of the premises before dining and
so Mr. Hani El Sharkawi was summoned while I was directed to the comfortable
lobby. A front desk clerk smiled and addressed me by name to offer a beverage.
I was impressed with the courtesy and comfortable feeling of unrushed ambiance
that I observed of the staff. |
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“The views of the Stadtpark and Ringstrasse were awe-inspiring
and really conjured up the
feeling of living history of what life must have
been like during the Emperor Franz Joseph's reign.” ~ JL |
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| Upon meeting the charismatic and obliging Mr. El
Sharkawi, I was given an extensive tour and history of the splendid Radisson
SAS Palais. It turns out that by joining the Leitenberger Palace and the
Henckel von Donnersmarck Palace next to each other, the net effect brought
together two distinct personalities under one roof. Add to the mix the
world-renowned Vendome Spa and of course Le Siècle Restaurant, the very
reason I came here in the first place. Mr. El Sharkawi now escorted me to the
restaurant and I was seated in a pleasant comfortable upholstered booth while
Executive Chef Christian Krumpholz worked his magic in the kitchen. The views
of the Stadtpark and Ringstrasse were awe-inspiring and really conjured up the
feeling of living history of what life must have been like during the Emperor
Franz Joseph's reign. The monarchy long gone, I decided to concentrate on the
cuisine of Chef Krumpholz and his team, which includes Sous Chef Marko Dutschke
bringing with him experience in several Michelin & Gault-Millau rated
properties. |
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| I listened carefully to the
gentle voice of a jazz vocalist singing in the background while a very
knowledgeable server named Nicole looked after my level of comfort making sure
that I was pleased and relaxed before she brought the "Greetings from the
Kitchen". An elegant fluted glass of J.M. Gobillard & Fils, Brut Grande
Réserve Premier Cru was poured while Chef Krumpholz sent out a
whimsical Lobster Salad with Green Apple Aquavit, Frisèe and Lobster
Foam. |
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| A selection of seven assorted fresh baked breads was
placed on the table next to a dish of flower-petal and herbed butter. I was
excited to find an original Viennese "Salzstangel", a long crisp salted roll
that brought me back to my childhood visiting my Grandparents in Vienna. My
server Nicole returned to ask how it was going and clear the 'Bauscher China'
and silver-plated utensils for the next course. A well-arranged rendition of
Sesame and Coriander Encrusted Tuna Carpaccio with Lime Bell Pepper Couscous
and Wild Mushrooms offered a fanciful presentation and exotic flavors with
the tuna most likely taken from the most sought after belly of the fish.
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A distinguished dry
Grüner Veltliner Jamek 2005 Ried Achleiten Federspiel from
Weissenkirchen in the Wachau wine district on the Danube was paired with
Enoki Mushroom Consommé with Goose Liver Crostini. This was a
light smoky broth filled with slender long-stemmed mushrooms and flavorful
stuffed ravioli perfectly matched with the tender earthy aromas of the terroir
of the Wachau.
After an intermezzo of Fresh Pasionfruit Sorbet bathed in
Gobillard Brut Grand Reserve Premier Cru Champagne, I thought I was going
into some sort of culinary heaven. The pace of the meal was leisurely and the
server Nicole made sure after every course to check on the level of
contentment. |
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| By this time the first main course arrived, which
consisted of Veal Tenderloin in Herbed Crepe Wrap with Young Peas,
Chanterelle Mushrooms and Glazed Hearts of Romaine, followed by a glass of
Cuvée U4 Red Mittelburgenland, Austria which seemed to coexist
peacefully with the veal without overpowering while at the same time
highlighting the subtle flavors of the meat. |
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| A second selection was
brought out for sampling and it was Olive Oil Poached Pike-Perch Filet over
Mixed Red and Yellow Pepper Stew and Brandade. I must say that I was awed
not only with the originality of the presentation but also the foolproof method
of fish preparation to create a juicy, flavorful filet for all to
enjoy. |
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| This course completed, it was time to set the stage
for the one thing that the entire world knows the Viennese do best; make
dessert! I was given ample time to rest before being served Trio of Pastries
including Chocolate Lava Cake, Chocolate Tart and Plum Ice Cream with Fresh
Plum Compote. Along with that was a very special glass of Pinot Blanc
Icewine Exclusive, Migsich Burgenland to top the evening off along with
some Petit Fors and fresh red currents. What a way to spend a night in Vienna!!
I congratulate the entire team of Le Siècle led by Executive Chef
Christian Krumpholz, and of course the Radisson SAS Palais team of which
Operations Manager El Sharkawi proudly states, "I hire for attitude and train
for technique." It is a true recipe for success! |
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| 2006 Le Siècle Restaurant - Award-Hand-Out |
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“I was impressed with the courtesy and comfortable feeling of
unrushed ambiance that
I observed of the staff as a result of Mr. El
Sharkawi’s philosophy of hiring and training his team” ~
JL |
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by
John Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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