|
 |
|
 |
|
| Le
Mirador, Lake Geneva |
|
Society - World Level Perfection
December 21st -
2006 |
|
6 Stars
& 7 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
|
The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™ |
|
|
|
| A refreshing, crisp wind is blowing over Lake Geneva
and I am overcome with sensory cues and visions depicting its origin somewhere
high up in the surrounding ring of glacial peaks. I cannot take my eyes away
from this surreal panorama in front of me as I stand atop my 1200-foot
precipice on the terrace of Le Mirador Kempinski. We are about to enter the
fabled Le Trianon Restaurant for an evening of appetite arousal but I pause
once more to savor the deeply sensuous fresh scent of Lake Geneva. The light is
fading fast now as my eyes hold on to the illuminated image of the city of
Montreux below on the shores of the hushed Swiss Riviera. |
|
 |
|
| Our esteemed host for tonight's festivities is
Executive Chef Peter Knogl who promises to put a fresh spin on chic cuisine and
take us on a flavorful journey across established culinary frontiers. When we
arrive at the entrance to the restaurant, Maitre d’Hotel Michel Carrez
informs us that Chef Knogl had requested that we not be given a menu but
instead he will fire-up his spirited imagination and treat us to some of his
favorite preparations. That being said, we are seated to the inspired sounds of
live piano music emanating from the bar area. |
|
| Chef Knogl has gained
recognition over the years as a "bright new shining star of the Swiss cuisine
world" with his modern adaptations of traditional Swiss fare faithfully using
only the freshest locally grown produce in his creative recipes. I was equally
inspired to chat with Chef Sommelier Nicole Lecoq, who dutifully paired Knogl's
creations with wines from a list that won Wine Spectator's Award for "Most
Outstanding Restaurant Wine List in the World" four times in the last 10
years. |
|
 |
|
|
| “Chef Knogl seems to create poetry without ever picking up a
pen.” ~ TB |
|
| Our servers Alexander, Silvio and Gregory move around
the table as if a well trained synchronized swim team was performing and they
work effortlessly to provide enjoyable service. The tall Spiegleau wine glasses
stand like elegant sentries as they are being filled with the first of our many
wine samplings, in this case Laurent Perrier Ultra Brut providing a
crisp, clean, airy and delicate effect on the palate with aromas of white
fruits, honeysuckle and citrus. Our 'Amuse Bouche' turns out to be a
delightfully simple rendition of Coriander Carrots served in a mocha cup
adding to the allure of simplicity focusing on concentrated sweet and savory
flavors. This is followed up by Duo of Tuna Carpaccio with Coriander
Vinaigrette, a surprising variation of sliced seared tuna coated with
coriander and chopped tuna tartare rolled with pickled ginger slices. Lying
next to all this on the same Villeroy & Boch china are delicate lines of
wasabe cream along with edible flowers. A bottle of Domaine La Colombe,
Raymond Paccot Pinot Gris Reserve 2004 showed the Germanic side to this
varietal offering a full body with notes of lemon, lime, pineapple and
grapefruit. This wine is produced from 35 year old vines in the region around
Lake Geneva and will stimulate the palate to appreciate the exciting exotic
flavors of coriander and ginger. |
|
 |
|
Our main course of Saddle
of Venison with Juniper Sauce and Puréed Celery bore all the
hallmarks of the great game preparations adding to that the earthy flavors of
juniper and puréed celery root. Of course, a Cabernet d'Ollon, P.A.
Meylan, 2005 with 100% cabernet franc grape is an enthusiastic partner to
the venison as it offers an herbal yet spicy aroma and taste within a dark red
liquid bringing to mind the thoughts of violets and black currants.
|
|
|
| Chef Knogl's dedicated team now shifts into high gear
with the arrival of the Clementine and Satsuma duo with its Sherbet
brought on with even greater flair while accompanied by Gewürztraminer
de Lavaux, 2003 J.M. Conne. The dessert, while framed in an edible
architectural stovepipe made up of diaphanous white and dark chocolate and
topped with citrus foam was accompanied by slices of mandarins and mandarin
flavored sherbet. |
|
 |
|
| 2006
Award-Hand-Out at Le Trianon |
|
|
| I can honestly say that the culinary display that Chef
Knogl and his team put on today makes Le Trianon at Le Mirador Kempinski worthy
of inclusion of everyone's list of "1,000 places to see before you
die." |
|
| “Chef Knogl's performance was a fireworks; an explosion of
culinary brilliance!” ~ TB |
|
|
|
|
by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal
Editor-in-Chief: John
Lomitola
|
|
| © 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
|
