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| Le
Mirador, Lake Geneva |
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Society |
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| September - 2010 |
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6
Stars & 6 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| It is a beguiling sight; somewhat narcotic in the
sublime effect it has on ones senses while standing above the clouds and
looking 1,300 feet down to the Mother of all lakes in Europe, Lac Leman. From
our precipitous vantage point at Le Trianon Restaurant in Le Mirador Kempinsky,
you can appreciate the lake’s glacial ancestry and alpine character while
witnessing giant arms disguised as snowy peaks embracing any one of a million
different hues reflected off the surface of the lake depending on the time of
day or night. It has an enormously beneficial affect on the appetite and so we
tore ourselves away to enter the domain of Executive Chef Philippe Zemour, a
relative newcomer at Le Trianon but accomplished nonetheless. |
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| Le
Trianon: View |
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| Chef Philippe’s résumé exudes
acclaim and competence with stints in several Michelin starred properties in
France and Switzerland as well as a touch of the exotic doing time in Bora
Bora, Tahiti. This valuable experience translated into personal inspiration and
creativity in the kitchen using the classical products and preparations of the
region to forge his way at Le Trianon. |
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| Le
Trianon - Thorsten Buehrmann & Chef Philippe Zemour |
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| As Mont Pèlerin looms behind and above the
restaurant, we notice the remarkable architecture of terraced vineyards all
around from which evidence suggests that vines have been cultivated in this
area since Roman times. Chef Philippe has built his culinary concept based on
local grape varieties and local produce that could be paired with and used in
his regional specialties. |
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| Le
Trianon: Cuisine |
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| To begin with Chef Philippe prepared an amuse bouche
for us consisting of an artfully arranged platter of coconut chicken with
sesame, foie gras mounds over rice crackers and crisp mousse rolls with caviar.
A bottle of Domaine des Coccinelles Riesling-Sylvaner, an organically produced
wine from Neuchatel, Switzerland supported all this. A first course of
“Landes” Duck Foie Gras with preserved Chardonne wine-flavored
spiced jelly and Valais apricot chutney with almonds appeared from the
kitchen. |
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| This local preparation
originates deep within the district of Vevey in the canton of Vaud further
recognizing the value of using regional products. The second course presented
itself as Zucchini Flower and Summer Truffle featuring smoked and
souffléed young vegetables and crispy langoustine in a summer broth. The
two courses were paired with Marquis de Pennautier Chardonnay providing
both a creamy texture and long finish amidst a sensation of vanilla, spice and
tropical fruit. |
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| Le
Trianon: Cuisine |
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| ‘This could be the start of our Love Story’,
I thought as we paused to savor the very fine beginning of Chef Philippe’s
culinary show. So far we had been somewhat seduced by all this gastronomic
wizardry and creativity. We moved on to Baked Sea Bass with Hot and Cold
‘Gambas’ in Open Ravioli with grey shrimp foam and lemongrass.
This combination couldn’t help but excite the palate with a strong
contrasting of flavors and temperatures not to mention the addition of a
delicate ocean-like foam to smooth out the whole dish. A local wine made up of
petite arvine and chardonnay grapes from the Valais became La Tremaille
Assemblage de Cepages Nobles, capturing the essence of tropical fruits
tempered by spicy almond and a fine long finish. |
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| Le
Trianon: Cuisine |
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A second entrée
of Pigeon from Racan rubbed with ‘Sultan’ spices, pigeon meat
samossa, roasted red peaches and unsweetened cocoa flavored juice arrived
arranged in three parts on the plate. The breast meat was perfectly cooked to
medium-rare while the adjoining ‘samossa’ resembled a crispy wonton
stuffed with well-cooked meat from the leg. To match the dark, rich full bodied
flavor of pigeon, a bottle of Syrah, Frederic Zufferey, Chippis,
Switzerland became the wine pairing. This deep, red syrah with lots of
white pepper, chocolate and espresso seem appropriate for this entrée.
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| For dessert, the Chef de Patisserie Adrien Bouvier
suggested Raspberry in a Moist Biscuit, Ice Cream and Lemon Thyme
Espuma. The triple layer symmetrical structure presented shapes and flavors
to trick the mind into a sense of wonder. We couldn’t help but accept a
double espresso along with the finishing touch of a tower of petit fours as a
nightcap. Well done Chef Philippe and team!! |
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| Le
Trianon: 2010 Award |
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by Thorsten Buehrmann
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola
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| © 2010 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes,
Inc. |
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