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| Berlin, Germany |
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World Level Perfection - Society
February 2012 |
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7
Stars & 6 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes® |
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| It was a stroke of absolute brilliance when Emperor
William II approved a plan submitted by Lorenz Adlon to build this
one-of-a-kind
hotel in the center of Berlin to be a showpiece of nobility and grace.
While the Adlon had gone through a lot of changes since it’s inception,
some traditions remain and the feeling you get walking into the Esszimmer
restaurant conjures up images reminding one of being in a time warp. On your
way to dining you are greeted the old fashioned way, with eye contact of course
as you pass elegantly dressed employees. With piano music wafting in the
background and the historical context that is breathing all around in the
furniture, the floors and the walls, it’s easy to see how you can become
seduced by the moment as if you were somehow watching yourself from
above. |
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| Now back to the reality of today and the nuts and
bolts of what makes this restaurant different than all the rest. First and
foremost I must conclude that the Raison d'être has to start with the
all-star team of Executive Chef Hendrik Otto, Restaurant Manager Boris
Häbel, and Sommelier Shahab Jalali, an explosive and cutting edge
combination. That being said, it was time for us to enjoy and evaluate the
inspired pure harmony what these masters of their trade can produce in terms of
service, plate presentation, ingredient combinations and pleasure to the
palate. After all, it’s not often that you can experience contemporary
European-inspired haute cuisine that in just a year and a half was awarded two
Michelin Stars. On the surface, Adlon’s Esszimmer is an eclectic synergy
between deep-rooted tradition and a fresh contemporary Berliner style. You can
see it in the retro-uniforms of the service team, created by renowned fashion
designer Patrick Hellman of Berlin and the modernity of a flat screen installed
at the entrance to the restaurant that allows patrons to watch kitchen and
service teams in action. |
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| The ambiance of the restaurant exudes luxurious
elegance, comfort and eye appeal. Our excellent table was strategically located
with a
spectacular
view of the Brandenburg Gate (Please CLICK HERE to take a closer
look), the super iconic symbol of Berlin past and present. Looking out at
this edificial embodiment of the German spirit brought to mind its importance
over the years and its relevance today as a focal point to this re-born city
full of dreams. Service was provided by a professional team led by Restaurant
Manager Häbel, who appeared often at the precise moments needed to quietly
direct and support while offering advise and suggestions regarding our menu
choices. A multi-course degustation menu provided us with small portion
sampling of Chef Otto’s signature dishes with matching wines provided by
Sommelier Jalali. |
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| Lorenz
Adlon Esszimmer - Cuisine |
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| To start with, an amuse bouche consisting of
Mackerel with Anchovy crumble on tomato salad with bread cracker, Raw
marinated Tuna and Escabeche gelee, red onion jam, chive stone and chive
crème fraiche was offered followed by a plethora of small items designed
to wet the appetite featuring some of Chef Otto’s continuously changing
creations. Some notables included Parmesan Sticks made with Filo dough,
Mozzarella mousse with tomato jelly, basil and tomato ice cream, Deep-fried
scallop dumpling and Goose Liver Lollipop with Salted Almond on exotic
Crème, although there were quite a few more. Upon presentation of
the amuse bouche, a selection of fresh house-made artisanal breads along with
several specialty dips and spreads including Truffle Mayonnaise and
Tomato-Basil Oatmeal with Garlic were offered. We understood the urge to
indulge in these wonderfully warm, fresh smelling breads but because of the
anticipation of the 8-course tasting menu yet to come, we modified our cravings
and restrained ourselves. |
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| Quite soon after this
arrived the Goose Liver with Pepper Cream, a super creamy
melt-in-your-mouth rendition, which had obviously been allowed to develop its
fullest flavor and texture. The wine suggestion for this course,
Gewuerztraminer “Les Folastries”, Josmeyer, Alsace 2009,
peppery at the start with notes of lychee flowers, followed by melon and
apricot, provided the complimentary structure to hold up to this
course. |
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Lorenz Adlon
Esszimmer - Cuisine |
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| The second course of
Halibut
and Langoustine, sauce Dugléré (Please CLICK HERE to
take a closer look) came paired with Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese
trocken, Eva Fricke, Rheingau 2008. The firm, dense texture of the Halibut
required little seasoning as it had a fresh, ocean-like flavor, but Chef Otto
chose to enhance this dish with sauce Dugléré, a tomato broth
fortified with shallots on top of which was a perfectly tender langoustine. The
Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese, produced from old vines grown on the steep
slopes of Lorch in the Reingau, offered a cooperation of sweetness and
minerality, working to highlight and balance each other followed by an extended
smooth and creamy finish. |
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Lorenz Adlon
Esszimmer - Cuisine |
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We resumed our tasting
menu with several other courses including Codfish with Basil-Mustard
Sauce, followed by Fläminger Pork Belly with Spiced Fennel,
both particularly delightful, imaginative and correctly proportioned as to fit
into the eight course tasting menu and allowing for an acute appreciation of
Chef Otto’s technical skills. |
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| A
particularly noteworthy course of Breast of Squab with Rosemary-Garlic
Sauce, accompanied with corn, lemon, parsley and raspberry provided us with
a somewhat richer, deeper flavor than that of other poultry, most likely due to
the preparation method and the fine layer of fatty tissue under the skin. Chef
Otto’s recipe called for cooking the breast to medium-rare, giving us the
impression of a fine cut of beef tenderloin and upon slicing off a morsel, we
discovered a silky, fine-grained texture of delicate taste. A bottle of 2006
Super Tuscan Il Caberlot Bettina Rogosky, with a cult-like following
displayed the uniqueness of this mysterious clone discovered near Verona,
combining the best characteristics of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (hence the
name Caberlot) and acutely reflecting the terroir of the rocky, south facing
slopes of the region. Bold and earthy, with notes of dark forest berries and a
long lasting finish laced with herbs and a bit of tannin, this wine will age
gracefully for a good future. |
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| Lorenz
Adlon Esszimmer - Cuisine |
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| At this point, we felt completely and methodically
escorted through this culinary experience by a fine staff that operated
seamlessly, quietly and without effort to make sure we were quite satisfied
with every course. A beautifully arranged plate of
“Obatzda”
Camembert with Onion, Pretzel and Wheat Beer (Please CLICK HERE to
take a closer look) became our next dish and as explained by Restaurant
Manager Häbel, the Bavarian specialty, as interpreted by Chef Otto, is
made by mixing Camembert cheese with butter, paprika, roasted garlic and good
German Weissbeer. With this course the gifted sommelier suggested a 2010
“Clos de Uroulat”, Charles Hours, Jurançon, grown on the
slopes of the Pyrenees and made from 100% Petit Manseng grapes. Upon tasting,
it provoked a discussion about balance and supple acidity displayed by the
maturation process as well as its ability to pair with the rich vegetal
character of the cheese. |
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| Lorenz
Adlon Esszimmer - Cuisine |
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| The wine experience as a whole we agreed was
marvelous, with the awesome ‘stage presence’ of Sommelier Jalali as
the main reason for this opinion. We watched with admiration as Jalali
orchestrated each wine pairing with composure and grace, giving us his
extensive knowledge on each varietal, wine maker, vineyard and appellation.
Finally we received our eagerly awaited dessert of
Guanaja
Chocolate and Cardamom Ganache, Exotic Curry Sorbet with Mango (Please
CLICK HERE to take a closer look). It seems that the use of this rare
form of chocolate, a combination of Criollos and Trinitarios beans, produces
bright fruity notes at first bite and then building to a climax of deep, dark
maple syrup with a hint of espresso and subtle floral scents rounding it off.
We give a lot of credit to the entire team of experts of their trade in the
kitchen, bakery and on the floor in the restaurant. They are truly in sync with
each other and on top of their game. |
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| Lorenz
Adlon Esszimmer - Hendrik Otto - Seven Stars Award Presentation |
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by Edmund & Thorsten Buehrmann
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2012 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes,
Inc. |
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