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| Restaurant
Sonnenhof |
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| Vaduz -
Liechtenstein |
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Society
May - 2007 |
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6 Stars
& 6 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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A charming, delightful feeling of dining in an
European Princely State during the Renaissance overcame me, complete with
visions of hilltop villages, river valleys silently guarded by storybook
castles and high Alpine meadows above the tree line dotted with bell-toting
grass-fed cows. A reality check was in order for now as I prepared to dine at
the Park Hotel Sonnenhof's first class restaurant led by Executive Chef and
owner
Hubertus
Real. After all, this is the 21st century and not the Middle Ages. I still
held out the anticipation that I would be experiencing something truly great as
promised by Chef Hubertus as he has been known as a sort of 'culinary
prestidigitator' or juggler of food. This would be in keeping with his
leadership in creating some of the finest and imaginative cuisine in the
European fine dining circuit. I was not to be disappointed!
A refreshing
fluted glass of champagne flavored with a locally harvested and produced
elderberry syrup reminded me of the benefits of using mostly seasonally
available products. While sitting in the fireplace anteroom before dining, it
all seemed to make sense now. One should slow down and enjoy the simple things
in life; let the enjoyment penetrated the very fabric of your being and
appreciate all the talents that are before you. Chef Hubertus was ready for us
now and had prepared a special menu of some of the latest creations in his
repertoire. |
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“The discovery of a new dish does more for human happiness than
the discovery of a new star.” ~ Brillat-Savarin. |
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| Fresh baked breads including
whole grain, sour dough, sunflower seed, poppy and caraway were brought hot to
the table along with raw milk butter presented on a stoneware plate. A bottle
of artesian well water from deep under the mountains of Liechtenstein proved to
be squeaky clean although soft on the palate. A quick glance around the
restaurant proved to us that Chef Hubertus was indeed a remarkable 'kinetic'
artist, running entirely on self-generated energy. His restaurant was full of
various kinds of people at different stages of completion of their dining
experience and Chef Hubertus was making the rounds in between his kitchen
duties just making sure that his respected clientele was in fact satisfied with
his creations. |
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“Chef
Hubertus Real captivates you first with his plate presentation fantasies
that suspend
conventions of realism until you delve into it and discover
the rich abundance of
exotic flavors that adhere to form his own personal
work of art.” ~ TB |
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Our encounter with the creative cuisine of Chef
Hubertus had some notable mentions. A figurine-like presentation of Skewered
Lobster with Essence of Cherry Tomato made to look like a soft-boiled egg
was the perfect texture and temperature and practically melted in the mouth
with every bite. A beautiful bottle of Sancerre produced in St. Gallen
Switzerland by Domaine de Sarry Michel Brock, offered up the
unmistakable flavor of the sauvignon blanc grape highlighting the grassy, spicy
notes while fomenting aromas of green fruits suggestive of
gooseberries.
Steinbutt (Fluke) Filet with Wild Garlic Crust over Fresh
Spring Garden Peas, offered up the delicate flakes of white meat fish filet
covered with the most aromatic wild garlic crust reminiscent of fresh forest
air. This in turn was placed delicately over the most stunning Kelly green
fresh garden pea base. Together it made for a refreshingly full flavor front of
the mouth feel created by a chef who wasn't playing it safe and knows how to
craft flavor sparks without explosives. A truly stunning example of California
Chardonnay that rivals the very best White Burgundy was presented in the form
of a 1998 Kistler Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast. It possesses a definitive
yellow color with crystal clarity, multi-layered richness and flavors, and a
super long, delicious finish. It massages the mouth with lushness. |
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| 2007 Award-Hand-Out: Restaurant Sonnenhof, Vaduz -
Liechtenstein |
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A third mention should be the Duet of Pata-Negra,
with caramelized artichokes, Physalis (ground cherries) and chive potatoes.
The Pata Negra pork is raised on a strict diet of acorns thus imparting a
unique flavor profile of a delicate nutlike taste. Tender morsels of
artichokes, sweetened during the cooking process were arranged next to
asparagus tips and citrus-like Physalis going 360 degrees from salty, nutty,
citrus to sweet and back to salty again with every bite. A bottle of Chateau
Gloria, St. Juliens Cru Bourgeois 1997 with an elegant dark fruit nose and
lovely texture did the right thing with the entrée at hand. It's ripe
and supple tannins and good firm acidity had all the features to go with these
strongly primal opposing but complementary forces.
We finished the evening
with a delightful rendition of Ginger Sabayon with Strawberry-Rhubarb
Compott and Pineapple Sorbet. Chef Hubertus captivates you first with his
plate presentation fantasies that suspend conventions of realism until you
delve into it and discover the rich abundance of exotic flavors that adhere to
form his own personal work of art. During the entire dining experience we were
assisted by the very knowledgeable Joachim Pahlke - Chef de Service and Anke
Scherer - second Chef de Service, making up part of a dynamic team that help
keep the Park Hotel Sonnenhof at the pinnacle of success. |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Marcus Schuhmacher
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2007 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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