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| TERRACOTTA RESTAURANT |
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| Kiev, Ukraine |
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Society - Extraordinary
July - 2009 |
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6
Stars & 5 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| Like the “cooked earth” definition of
unglazed earthenware, cuisine at Terracotta Restaurant reflects the land’s
bounty of the Mediterranean, nurtured by gentle climate and endless range of
ingredients.
Executive
Chef Igal Kovriga (CLICK HERE for a closer look) has set out to
maximize the deep-rooted tradition of the Ukraine of using any occasion, no
matter how small, to bring together the regional variations of the
Mediterranean with the traditional fare of the native Ukrainian culture, for
the benefit of his clientele. The restaurant is new to Kiev, an elegant city
dotted with imperial structures of bygone days. In choosing the venue, up on
the eighth floor of the Premier Palace Hotel, the restaurant takes advantage of
imposing views of this fabulous city and all its visual candy. Architecture
aside, food is the main attraction here and Chef Igal and his talented team
make this an unforgettable gastronomic experience. |
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| Terracotta Restaurant Manager, Natalia Droga is in
charge of the operational aspects of guest satisfaction and tableside service
led by servers Andrey and Kostya was first class. Our dining experience was
highlighted by seamless, professional care punctuated by creative delicacies
offering genuine flavor and aroma.
The
restaurant itself (CLICK HERE for a closer look), radiates charm and
grace with floral accents, high ceilings, pastel colors and classic views of
the city. An aquarium with live coral and Mediterranean fish sits adjacent to
the entrance, which is usually manned by Restaurant Supervisor Lesya Skalozub.
An artful bouquet of red-hot cayenne peppers accentuates the Maitre d’s
podium. Our evening’s experience began with a walk past the incredible
wine display and private wine tasting segment of the dining room. In this area,
Sommelier Igor Orel offers detailed tasting notes and advice on any of the
wines Terracotta has to offer, amidst elegant curtains, chandeliers and cigars.
Yes, a great selection of cigars is a distinct possibility for any guest with
an inclination to partake in a hand-rolled Cuban. |
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| Chef Igal’s
impressive history of experience makes him a sort of Culinary Ambassador taking
in influences from corners of the globe such as London, Paris, Istanbul, Eilat,
and Tokyo including several Michelin Star rated restaurants. His presentation
for us this evening was none-the-less especially inspired, starting with
Terracotta Salad, a colorful display of dandelion greens, edible
Nasturtiums, fresh figs and fresh buffalo mozzarella. The natural spiciness of
the flowers and greens provided the necessary spark to ignite the sweet figs
and buffalo mozzarella with enough fire to call for a dousing of
wine. |
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A white glove holding a semi-precious bottle of
Moët et Chandon Dom Perignon Rose, 1996 began lavishing its
cherished contents into our fluted stemware. The rose color with fine mousse
proved beguiling and hypnotic forcing us to reach out quickly and caress the
glass for a perfect match. This was followed by Kebab Sea Mix, an
innovative trio of grilled seafood ‘sliders’ placed over a tomato
concasse and supported by tasty clams and mussels. Sommelier Igor advised us to
pair with a bottle of Olivier Leflaive Corton-Charlemagne 2006 and
despite the fact that there was no apparent nose, a simple swirl led to green
apple wrapped in a full bodied mineral texture with a long luscious finish.
Mutton Millefeuille, an artfully prepared lamb chop cut from an entire
loin with only one ‘Frenched’ rib bone protruding and the rest of the
loin remaining. Cooked rosette pink with juices flowing, and placed atop a
stacked foie gras Napoleon, this entrée was striking in appearance and
flavor. |
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| Cuisine -
Terracotta Restaurant |
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| The wine for this entrée, Gaja Barbaresco
Sori Tildin 1996, was expertly decantered by the sommelier thereby allowing
it to evolve through exposure to air. Displaying moderate tannic structure from
thick-skinned grapes grown amidst fog, this wine exhibited exotic aromatic
layers of roses and violets, thereby complimenting the lamb with finesse.
Finally for dessert, a Kiev Cake made with hazelnuts, meringue and
buttercream filling, topped with edible gold leaf and spun sugar nest, made its
way to our table. This rendition of the famous cake that became the symbol of
the city of Kiev since the 1950’s, was paired with Inniskillin
Sparkling Icewine Vidal Gold 2005. Powered by stone fruits such as apricots
and peaches, it is balanced by a natural acidity and fine sparkle. Our hero
today is Executive Chef Igal Kovriga with his incredible talent of linking
customs and cultures while defining them with his own unique
signature. |
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| 2009
Terracotta Restaurant AWARD |
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by Edmund & Thorsten Buehrmann
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2009 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes,
Inc. |
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