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| at the
Ritz Carlton in Philadelphia, USA |
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Extraordinary
September - 2006 |
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5 Stars
& 5 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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Amid the backdrop of dark wood paneled walls adorned
with large portraits in oil, leather booths over which were hanging ornate
chandeliers and a decidedly unhurried but efficient movement of people crowed
in for 'Restaurant Week' in Philadelphia, stood Hotel Manager Grant Dipman
waiting to welcome us to his flagship restaurant of the Ritz-Carlton. It was a
special feeling of welcome to be greeted with a big warm handshake and an
introduction to the smiling Maitre d' who then wove his way though the maze of
seemingly happy patrons. Dining under high airy ceilings and the nearby
spotlessly clean and efficient show kitchen inspired us to imagine what it must
be like to work in such an exciting environment under the leadership of
Executive Chef Kevin Sbraga and the Ritz-Carlton credo. A pledge to 'provide
the finest personal service' is carried as a mantra by all employees in the
form of a thin folded booklet and it was evident from the start that it begins
with the management living and working through example.
Executive Chef de
Cuisine Sbraga cut his teeth at Johnson & Wales University, the premier
venue for the future great chefs of America. After an externship at the Hotel
Metropole in Brussels with a French master chef, Chef Sbraga completed his BA
at Johnson & Wales and went on to gain valuable experience and influences
at various locations in the Ritz-Carlton chain. We were impressed with Chef
Sbraga's worldliness and in his own words how he "Re-defines American cuisine
with new twists on tried and true combinations". Much of his menu Sbraga told
us is prepared through the art of Sous Vide or "cooking under vacuum" as
learned through his experiences with mentor Arnaud Berthelier, one of the great
chefs of the Ritz-Carlton family. |
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| It was now up to us to get
the most out of this much anticipated degustation (tasting) menu that awaited
us at the Grill Restaurant of the Ritz-Carlton, Philadelphia. To start with
Chef Sbraga wowed us with Fire Roasted Corn Chowder, Jumbo Lump Crab and
Apple-Wood Smoked Bacon while Sommelier Aaron Kleinle took care to pair it
with a sparkling wine from Domaine Carneros, Napa Valley. This couldn't
have been a better pairing as the subtle creamy flavor of the wine offered an
understated challenge to the salty bacon and ocean-flavored crab. Next came the
Big Eye Tuna Tartare with Sesame-Soy, Wasabi Ice Cream coexisting with a
Pinot Gris, King Estate, Oregon 2004. |
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| A work in progress, you might say as the rich fatty
magenta red tuna aspired to greatness with the help of the organically grown
grape varietal delivering elegant refined fruit with a very long finish. Our
server Javier suggested that we cleanse our palates with some bread before the
next course and we couldn't resist the French baguettes. He returned from the
kitchen with Heirloom Tomato Salad with Shaved Parmesan and Tomato
Sorbet while the sommelier poured us a glass of Peju, Sauvignon Blanc,
Napa Valley 2005. Our thoughts were drifting back to the summer and the
bountiful season for tomatoes as we thoroughly savored each morsel with
intermittent sips of the fruit forward luscious wine. |
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| “Sbraga defines American cuisine with new twists on tried and true combinations.” ~ TB |
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| Up next our gracious host Chef Sbraga sent out Pan
Seared Wild Striped Bass in Thai Mussel broth and Baby Bok Choy as a fourth
course and this time a dramatically different glass of Conundrum, White Wine
Blend, Caymus 2004. This wine is an example of superb layering of floral,
spicy notes in a lush texture that works well with the kind of contemporary
fusion that is on the creative mind of Chef Sbraga. For our fifth course we
were presented with Roasted Gionnone Chicken with Goat Cheese Polenta and
Olive Jus together with a perfect glass of Summerland, Pinot Noir
Fiddlestix Vineyards, Santa Rita Hills 2004. As the tasting menu was
nearing its end we took time to reflect on some of the fine creations that this
fabulous team of chefs had brought together. We were impressed by the
originality of the recipes and plate presentations of the kitchen team lead by
Chef Sbraga combined with the wine parings of Sommelier Aaron Kleinle. Our
final entrée was put forward as Braised Short Ribs & Grilled
Filet of Beef as a dynamic duo of sorts worthy of comparison and savoring.
Cabernet Sauvignon, Jordan, Alexander Valley 2002, supported this
entrée with a very rich in texture and opulent flavors of ripe
blackberry, cherry and cassis. |
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| Award-Hand-Out: The Grill Restaurant at the Ritz Carlton
Philadelphia, USA |
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| Finally we were treated to a Ritz-Carlton
Lemoncello Martini to go with our dessert of Meyer Lemon Tart with
Preserved Lemon Jam for a complete citrus rush. We owe our thanks and
gratitude to the professional team under Chef Sbraga in the kitchen and out in
the restaurant. The dining experience was especially satisfying and in keeping
with the overall world-class quality of the
Ritz-Carlton
family. |
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by
Thorsten & Simone Buehrmann
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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