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| American
Dream Cuisine™ |
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Chanterelle
2 Harrison Street - New York,
receives |
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Society |
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6 Stars
for Outstanding Cuisine and
6 Stripes for Outstanding Service. |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes™ |
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“Loud jackets, louder
voices, wild gestures” were once the norm in this legendary
location, the New York Mercantile Exchange Building that David Waltuck set up
shop in 1989 with his newly re-located restaurant Chanterelle. It was plain to
see for Simone and me as we walked through the door and past a remarkable
floral arrangement, that times have changed quite a bit. Spacious and elegant,
it appealed immediately to my German sense of order and symmetry.
Its
roominess somehow belied the intimacy of only 17 tables surrounded by huge
comfortable chairs and warm creamy walls. We were effortlessly shown to our
table and as we strolled in that direction we could hear the muffled voices of
various well dressed types with an occasional burst of laughter, the kind that
only comes in a totally relaxed and satisfying environment. Although somewhat
dimly lit, it provided for serious intimacy and romance as if looking into your
significant other's eyes over candle-light doesn't help. Simone was impressed
by my newfound motivated attention to her, but she insisted on an epicurean
agenda for right now.
At this point we couldn’t wait to peruse
the creative looking hand written menu, which was now being given to us. We
buried our heads quickly in the menu as all patrons do as soon as they are
seated as if it were a knee-jerk reaction. A swift glance up restored the
reality of it all and promised to bring us the experience of dining in
someone’s cozy living room. David Waltuck prides himself on his ability to
cleverly re-apply traditional French cooking techniques to his unique creations
and so the menu changes every six weeks as new inspirational items work their
way into his collection. The appeal for Waltuck’s bill of fare is
wide-ranging and remarkable considering the overabundance of young upstarts in
this competitive restaurant market and the profusion of disappointments.
Chanterelle has endured more than 20 years since its opening when David was a
24yr old pioneer with a vision of using only the freshest seasonal produce
while seeking out small producers and suppliers for the best ingredients
available.
We now felt that the stage was set for us to explore David
Waltuck’s opulent style through his strong understanding of depth and
intensity of flavors from around the world. Simone suddenly gave me an elbow to
alert me to the approaching wine steward preciously holding a bottle of Pol
Roger Champagne, the personal favorite of Sir Winston Churchill himself. It
looks as if the show has started and the characters include us!
A
gentle caress was observed as the bottle was presented and then inserted into
the ice bucket. Such care and respect is only given when champagne has a
reputation that exudes finesse and elegance. |
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The recent celebration of the
150th anniversary of Pol Roger and the fact that they only produce their
vintage wines in 'very good' to 'excellent' years, puts it in this
category.
As a member of a group of producers known as "Grand Marque",
Pol Roger subscribes to producing the finest champagne while exacting quality
controls above the norm, and meticulous, traditional methods that have been
used since its establishment in 1849. This cuvèe is 80% Pinot Noir and
20% Chardonnay of the finest grapes available which would allow for putting
away for a future celebration if one can resist. |
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A soft pop was
detected as the wine steward gently twisted the bottle to release the cork. The
pour was precious little and offered to me for approval. I swirled the glass
and noticed a slight hint of hazelnuts to the nose as I tried to read the
complexity from the delicate golden straw color.
All eyes were upon
me as the first drop entered my mouth and I was eager to approve so that Simone
could share in its remarkable voluptuous and balanced structure. I felt its
fine mousse-like bubbles find their way to the back of my palate where I
relished its stylish and balanced acidity. |
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I nodded with approval and Simone was served while I
made mental notes to add a few bottles to my collection and allow this robust
wine to develop further in its long life.
The menus were quickly
removed and we were surprised to learn that our host Chef Waltuck had
pre-arranged a special tasting for us to savor. This struck a note with our
German instincts for order as we felt that we were now in the care of a master
of his trade. Our first course arrived full of vibrant color and textures as if
an artist were splashing paints from a palate onto a canvas.
Amuse:
- "Parmesancooki" out of potato
rolled with gammon decorated with spicy roasted red pepper-sauce and chives
A light crunchy potato crisp laced with parmesan cheese and smoked salted
bacon.
Appetizer: Simone
- Squid with vegetable "spaghetti"
and roasted tomato vinaigrette with olives
Offered Mediterranean zest
while tenderly intriguing the mind with strands of pasta-like
vegetables
- Emilio Lustau "Papirusa"
Manzanilla-Sherry
Characterized by light straw color and smoky
intensity, irresistible aromatic temperament and well integrated flavors of
dried fruits and flowers.
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Appetizer:
Thorsten
- Salad of roasted red and
yellow beets and yellowfin tuna tartar decorated with mayonnaise and dandelion
Another well orchestrated arrangement of colors and flavors that work
exceedingly well together. Delicate ocean flavor of tuna co-mingled with earthy
beets and pungent crisp leaves of the detoxifying dandelion.
- Tsukinokatsura Junmai
Ginjo Yangi-Sake
Soft golden hues with a mild elegant aroma light fruit
and faint sweetness.
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Thorsten: Main Course
I
- Warm salad of grilled foie
gras and Portobello mushrooms
Harmoniously choreographed in an
explosion of color. Subtle creamy earthiness deeply reinforced with cognac and
truffles
- Alvear "Asuncion" Olorosso
- Montilla Moriles
Produced by 'raisinizing' or drying grapes in the hot
sun yields an intensely sweet style. The winery was founded in 1729 and still
produces delightful attention getting wines. The Oloroso is soft and lovable
while offering harmony between nuttiness and sweetness.
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| Perfect Inconspicuous Service - The Napkin Test - Just
after the main course was skillfully served by the competent staff and we had
time to savor a few bites, my napkin became inexplicably stuck under one of the
legs of the chair that I was sitting in. Apparently and without much ado, the
waiter inconspicuously strode over to pick up the fallen serviette. Upon trying
to gracefully remove it from under the leg of my chair and after a few gently
tugs, the waiter realized that it would not come freely. He quickly motioned to
his accomplice and quite suddenly two napkins appeared, one of which was
ceremoniously placed on my lap while the other was placed next to my left hand.
Service has many connotations in the volatile restaurant business, but this
type of personal attention is professional and concerned adding up to an
important ingredient for any successful operation. |
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Simone: Main Course
I
- Steamed zucchini blossoms
with chicken and black truffles
An exercise in zen simplicity and
subtlety. Peppery chicken mousse carefully adorned with black truffles
- Frederic Lornet Arbois
Naturé - Jura 1999
Fresh herbal nose, intense, rich on the
palate with enticing hint of clean lemon and almonds.
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Simone: Main Course II
- Spiced Porgy Sauté with
sweet corn coulis
Simply prepared as crisp zesty filet coupled with
uncomplicated sweet corn and a splash of spinach
- Don Miguel Gascon
Vinguier-Mendoza 2001 Argentinia
A little known varietal with a
'polyphonic' collection of melon, citrus, oak and musk producing a golden,
light bodied finish. Grown in 1200 m altitude it produces an elegant and
polished feel with a floral perfume.
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Thorsten: Main Course
II:
- Striped bass and Shellfish
barigoule with carots, zucchini, mushrooms
Braised artichokes and
mushrooms mingle with carrots and zucchini in a delicate broth that is
fortified with herbs. The added element of clams and mussels provide the subtle
backdrop and help to support the delicate striped bass.
- Cairubrae "The Stones"
Sauvignon Blanc 2002 Marlborough - New Zealand
Typically characteristic
light straw yellow color with lofty fragrance of kiwi and passionfruit. A hint
of grapefruit with classic appearance of balanced acidity.
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| By this time Simone looked at me with an expression of
transcendent satisfaction as if to say "It doesn't get any better that this!"
Our thoughts were of what we had just finished and the warm feeling of great
pleasure it had on us when suddenly the server announced the arrival of the
third main course. "How could this be" Simone whispered to me in German as we
enthusiastically got ready for the final push. |
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Thorsten: Main Course
III:
- Grilled red oak beef
sirloin with star anise nice composition with sauce of stern anise, decorated
with fennel
A particularly tender finely marbled cut of meat served in a
decidedly rich reduction constructed with star anise. The addition of spring
roll and bok choy compliments the dish's oriental accent.
- Veramonte "Primus"
Casablanca Valley 2000, Chile
An amalgamation of cabernet sauvignon and
merlot it has a wonderful focus of deep red and black berries through which a
fabric of spicy oak is woven.
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Simone: Main Course III
- Loin of lamb with Moroccan
spices and gateau of lamb shanks and eggplant
Intense flavor of cumin
prepared with a rich and elaborate gateau of lamb shanks paired with
eggplant.
- Abadia Retuerta "Rivola" Sardon
del Duerr 2001, Spain
With 60% Tempranillo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon it
is aged unfiltered for 10 months in both French and American oak. Profoundly
garnet red in color it resonates aromas of dark red fruit with a hint of smoke
as an earthy tone. Full bodied to pair well with the Lamb, its tannins can be
tempered with age.
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Dessert
Sampler:
- Molten Vanilla Cake with
black plum compote and port plum ice cream
- Blueberry clafoutis and
coconut cream cheese ice cream and crushed blueberries lemon aroma
- Warm fresh fig and
valhrona chocolate pudding with brandied fig ice cream very intense chocolat
flavour
- Honey lavender yoghurt
crème and raspberries and cacaillon melon sorbet fantastic composition,
very tender mousse and intense sorbet
- Peanut butter with caramel
mousse and caramel ice cream
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Dessert Wine Sampler:
- Chateau Pince Guerre
Montbazillac 1998 honey like aroma, beautifully sweet and intense.
- Brumaire Pacherenc du Vic Bilh
1999 white truffle aroma, a rare fairly sweet but soft wine.
- Laubade Floc de Gascogne sweet
unfermented aperitif with an Armagnac base with apricot notes.
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The pleasure of sitting in
Chanterelle for about 5 hours now may not have been that evident on our faces.
Simone and I were awe-struck and needed time to savor and recall as many
highlights of this memorable evening as possible.
David and Karen
Waltuck proved to be venerable hosts for two wandering Germans who may have
misjudged the level of cuisine and service available in this country.
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David Waltuck & Thorsten
Piosczyk |
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| We are pleased to report that at least this time, we
have met a chef who is up to the challenge of conquering any preconceived ideas
we travelers from 'across the pond' may have had. |
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by
Simone Buehrmann & Thorsten Piosczyk
Editor-in-Chief: John
Lomitola
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