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American Dream Cuisine™
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Le Romanoff
Carlton Hotel, St. Moritz receives |
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Society - Extraordinary |
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6 Stars &
5 Stripes for
Extraordinaire - Society Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate Award:
Seven
Stars and Stripes ™ |
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We had anticipated an agreeable
and professionally prepared event since we had previously experienced many
Swiss hotels that promised to deliver five-star standards and have lived
up to the highest traditions. We were to discover that under the guidance
of Executive Chef de Cuisine Lothar R. Molitor, the standards of cuisine
have been raised to a new level of excellence. Chef Molitor prides himself
on leadership of his 18 member kitchen staff through inspirational creativity
garnered from years of experience working in California, London, Moscow,
Jerusalem, Cancun, Germany and Italy.
Our entrance into the elegant Le Romanoff, named after Czar Nicholas II
of Russia since the Carlton was originally built as his family's summer
residence, inspired us with historical inquisitiveness as to this remarkable
pedigree. We were elegantly greeted and escorted to our intimate candle-lit
table by Maitre d'Hotel and veteran Silvio Rizzi. His presence in the restaurant
is one of the essential elements for professional achievement and is a reflection
of management's remarkable loyalty to its treasured staff. |
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With gentle baroque piano music
wafting in the back round and setting the stage for our royal dining experience,
Silvio presented us with our specially created menus for the evening. To
our surprise, Chef Molitor had chosen to embellish our evening with some
of his favorite original recipes. |
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Upon being seated by the Maitre d'
we were offered a complimentary glass of Laurent-Perrier Brut L-P
N/V.
Laurent-Perrier's style is unique and well represented in this distinguished
bottle. |
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Chardonnay is the predominant grape
varietal and owing to its ability to portray freshness and elegance
it remains true to the approach exemplified by the producer.
Characteristically rendering exceptionally fine bubbles, it allows
for the persistence of white fruits suggesting a hint of citrus co-mingling
with green apples and pears. A classic among peers, it offers great
intricacy and balanced depth and richness. |
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We were now thoroughly relaxed and
the mood was set for the cuisine show to begin in earnest.
Appetizer
We started with: Carpaccio of Selected Air Dried Grisons Beef with Rucola
in Boletus Vinaigrette and a Small Mousse of Tomatoes. |
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This exceptional product is a specialty
from the Swiss Alps.
It is made from selected lean parts of the leg of beef, which are
treated with salt, a secrete mixture of spices and Alpine herbs and
then dried in the crisp, clear mountain air in the valleys of Graubünden
(the Grisons).
It has a unique, full-bodied flavor with a remarkably delicate consistency
that is ideal with a hunk of crispy fresh farmer's bread and a glass
of red wine.
Wine Selection:
2002 Pinot Noir Adolf Boner Kellerei, Malanser delivered a delicate
cherry and earth nose with in a light body with mild tannins and herbal
highlights. |
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As Phyllis was admiring the geometrically
appealing design of the Grisons Beef, I was served a remarkable bowl of
hearty Forest Mushroom Cream Soup literally served with a
dollop of freshly whipped unsweetened cream, placed conveniently in the
center of the soup just begging to be stirred.
Wine Selection: 2003 Sauvignon Blanc Barrique Jörg Saxer, Neftenbach
offered a young, fresh wine with good acidity with a subtle hint of smoke
and spice of white pepper working well with the earthiness of the mushroom.
With our taste buds sufficiently tantalized we awaited our next course and
took some time to gaze out around us to take in some of the carefully inspired
atmosphere. The management of the Carlton have made every effort to re-create
the imperial grandeur reminiscent of the original patrons, Czar Nicholas
II and the royal Romanoff family. |
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Main Course I
By now we noticed a flurry of waiters scurrying out of the kitchen
and headed for our table with our next courses. Their trays were neatly
organized with our dinners, each of which was covered with a majestic
silver top. After a graceful landing near our table, the Maitre d'Hotel
approached and presented our entrées by placing the covered
dishes in front of us and then simultaneously removing both with confidence.
My surprise consisted of Grilled Medallion of Angler Fish on Saffron
Peperonata with mini Asparagus and Wild Garlic Gnocchi.
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Also known as "Monkfish" in the
US, it has a firm texture that allows it to be grilled without falling apart
and has a flavor reminiscent of lobster meat. The wild garlic (bärlauch
in German) is the leafy variety and is gathered in the forests wild in the
spring and blended into a pesto so that it can be mixed to make the gnocchi.
It imparts a subtle green garlic flavor and aroma and is known to improve
metabolism and support the immune system in a natural way.
Wine Selection: 2002 Chardonnay Mayenfelder Schloss Salenegg Barrique,
aged for 12 months in French Barriques it was fabulous as it delivered a
light roasted aroma with vanilla bean in a full bodied harmonious structure.
Main Course II
For Phyllis it was Crepinette
of Lamb Chops with Perigord Truffles, Spring Vegetables and Risotto
out of the Parmesan Loaf. |
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An astonishing presentation of
the delectable, visually appealing lamb surrounded by fresh baby spring
vegetables interwoven with the delicate earthy aromatic scent of Perigord
truffles laced with sharp parmesan cheese. This type of black truffle
is named after the French province where it is found by the ancient
art of using a pig or dog to help locate their elusive fungi. They
have a superlative flavor and unrivaled ability to stimulate appetite
while to some they are the ultimate aphrodisiac…….. Hummmm!
Wine Selection: 2002 Merlot di Losone Saleggi, Angelo Delea
was the obvious choice for this dish. Visually red with violet reflections,
powerful fragrance of dark forest berries with typically full bodied
feel it 'cuts to the chase' for an appealing finish. |
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Please
take a closer look! |
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We
were both so busy enjoying our entrees when suddenly we realized that an
eerie silence had descended upon the table. It was definitely not time for
conversation as we continued to savor each morsel of chef Molitor's creations.
Upon completion of our dinner, the table ware was quickly and efficiently
removed and after crumbing we were presented with an 'After Dinner' drink
menu. "The Chef has prepared a special dessert for you" we were told, and
maitre d' Rizzi suggested espresso to go with this soon to be seen finale. |
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Dessert
Our dessert course arrived and revealed itself to be Pear Sherbet
with Praline Mousse in an Almond Tuile. A tuile is a thin,
crisp cookie that is placed over a rounded object (like a rolling
pin) while still hot from the oven.
Once cooled and stiff, the cookie resembles a curved roof tile. Ours
was filled with the pear sherbet and praline mousse with a spun sugar
accent radiating from the top and surrounded with delicately glazed
fresh fruits. |
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Wine
Selection:
1999 Mehringer Zellerberg Eiswein, Kellerei Lothar Molitor (Chef de Cuisine
of the Carlton). A fitting surprise ending to an outstanding evening.
This ice-wine from the Mosel region of Germany and the vineyards of Chef
Molitor, proved the incredible depth and versatility which exists at the
Carlton. This dramatic wine was tasty, luscious and sweet of the very best
kind. It was lingering and powerful with an intense bouquet and after-taste
of apricots and quince.
While we continued to sip on the remnants of the Ice-wine, we reflected
on the originality and unique flavor combinations created by master chef
Lothar Molitor and his able crew. With his leadership and ability to 'think
out of the box', the Romanoff Restaurant will remain on the cutting edge
for many years to come. |
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Ingenuity inspired by years of experience
and the willingness to venture onto uncharted grounds with daring
creations are the hallmarks of this successful master chef as he furthers
the quality and reputation of the Carlton Hotel in St Moritz. |
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John
Lomitola & Chef de Cuisine Lothar R. Molitor |
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by Phyllis
& John Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme
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