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Julius Meinl am Graben
in Vienna, Austria receives |
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Extraordinary |
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5 Stars &
Stripes for
Extraordinaire Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate Award:
Seven
Stars and Stripes ™ |
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Julius Meinl am Graben, is a master
piece of a restaurant; the historic building alone is worth a visit. Founded
in 1862, it is today not only a coffee house, wine bar, 'konditorei' (pastry
shop) & restaurant; it also features a culinary art food art exhibition
that spills over two floors. House made Kipferln and Meinl's own coffee
brand are so famous that many tourists order these 'hard to get' specialties
right online when they get home. Meinl
am Graben VIP-TOUR see also http://www.meinlamgraben.at
Meinl's wine bar and cellar is the in spot and meeting place for all kinds
of friendly people. We went up a stairway to the restaurant and were welcomed
like long gone friends. What is this about these Vienna folks? |
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Appetizer
- Salad provencal with crawfish
- The sweet and succulent meat of the crawfish (freshwater
relative of the lobster) was tossed with fresh garden vegetables
and asparagus and presented itself as an incredibly multicolored
clean tasting foundation for the rest of the culinary experience.
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- 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Kranachberg, wineyard
Sattlerhof Gamlitz southern Steiermark
- It is amazing that this outstanding wine is so little known in
the US as it is winning awards and accolades throughout Europe. Give
this wine some time to age gracefully but drinking it now will produce
concentrated fruit with strength and balance, creamy texture with flowing
fragrances of gooseberries, pippin apples and exotic lychee.
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Main Course I
- Brook trout with ravioli of pointed
cabbage and brown butter
– Delicate filets of pan seared brook trout are enhanced by
the nutlike flavor of the browned butter and accompanied by the cabbage
stuffed ravioli to produce a mini-symphony of flavor.
- 1977 Riesling Steindl Spaetlese Trocken,
vineyard Mantlerhof
- Produced by a wine growing family since 1365 in the Kremstal region
west of Vienna. It is not unusual to find many white wines from Mantlerhof
that have aged excellently as their oldest wine, a Gruener Veltliner
has a vintage of 1947. Our vintage seemed young in comparison but was
produced in an outstanding harvest year in which the Riesling grapes
were naturally affected by the noble rot (Botrytis). Full ripe fruit
upfront with classical semi-sweetness in the finish.
Main Course II
- Turbot with nuts on celery and gnocchi
– Known in Europe as the 'King of all Fish', turbot is delicate
in flavor perfectly pairing with the subtle scented braised celery root
and potato gnocchi. It was the best fish I had eaten all year!
- 2002 Weiss Burgunder Jaegerberg, vineyard
Sabathi Leutschach southern Steiermark
– A pleasant Pinot Blanc style with elegant white pear fruit
nose, agreeable deep-rooted vale of sweetness and an impressive finish.
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Main Course III
- Quail with goose liver mousse,
artichokes and mushrooms
- Splendidly smooth, strongly flavored goose liver whipped
into wispy cumulus-like spreadable consistency thereby allowing
itself to be consumed sparingly with every bite of the delicate
quail. Artichoke and mushrooms round out this masterpiece with
an earthy flavor.
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- 2001 Pinot Noir, vineyard Loimer Langenlois
- Grown in one of the few "red wine isles" existing in the predominantly
white Kamptal, where the soil heats up easily to create ideal growing
conditions for the Burgundy grape. Red berries and spice predominate
although it is characteristically light in structure and possesses a
concentrated elegance.
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It has been quite a learning experience
for Simone and I regarding all the outstanding and virtually unknown Austrian
wines that we were being introduced to during our cuisine review. To learn
more about this well kept secrete it's time to check out:
http://www.austrian.wine.co.at/eindex.html where you can surf the various
regions of Austria and see for yourself. |
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Main Course IV
- Variations of calf with wild
broccoli and mash leek-potato
– Austrians seem to have a love affair with veal and this
is no exception. The perfectly pink center of the chop was soft
and tender enough to cut with a fork. Wild broccoli is gathered
in the spring and this chef deftly sautéed it and united
it with a refined demi-glace reduction over leek infused mashed
potatoes.
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- 2000 Commondor CS-M, vineyard Nittnaus
Gols Burgenland
- This wine is cabernet sauvignon driven with the international appeal
of the soft tannin and morelo cherry. By the looks of this fine wine,
it seems that the Austrian wine business is making a serious statement
in the red wine category.
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Dessert - Simone
- Soufflé of passion fruit
with chutney of mango and pawpaw on almond slices and sorbet
– Lite and fluffy exotic fruits contrasting through hot
and cold temperatures in a nutty foundation of almonds.
- 2002 Cuvée Marie Théres
Impérial, vineyard Halbturn Burgenland
- Expertly blending Riesling and Welschriesling varietals into
an optimal balance of sweet and dry for a regal rendition of a
classical Mosel. Aromas of banana and orange tantalize while a
lite mineral nose reflect the strict selection of only the best
fruit.
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Dessert - Thorsten
- Thorsten: fried Schneenockerl on rhubarb
and toblerone-icecream
– Powdered sugar blankets the ‘nockerl’ or fried
mini dumplings of odd shape, a somewhat sophisticated rendition reminiscent
of fried dough at a state fair. The addition of rhubarb compote together
with toblerone ice cream leads to the ever-present dilemma of when to
stop eating!
- 1998 Trockenbeerenauslese "Morillon"
Sattlerhof Gamlitz, southern Steiermark
- Golden yellow like a rich-man's treasure with complex fruit in
the nose and a creaminess that adds structure to any dessert.
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| Meinl
am Graben VIP-TOUR Our thoughts at this point were filled with images
of Imperial Vienna and all its grandeur, after all being served in this
elegant fashion in an establishment that has been in existence for 140 years
is beyond explanation. Simone and I began to sit back into our seats to
reflect as we savored the extensive onslaught of this remarkable cuisine.
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Austrian Cheese ...It wasn't long
after we returned from our dream that Meinl Assistant Restaurant Manager
Michael Wiesinger approached with a rather large garadon filled top
to bottom with an elaborate selection of Austrian cheeses. Cheese
was never a big part of my diet but the boldness of the display made
me want to try everything at least once.
Michael pointed determinedly to each one as he spoke their names,
"Mondseer, Pinzgauer Bierkase, Tiroler Graukase. . . . ." I spoke
up to ask for a description. "Tiroler Graukase is made from ripened
sour mild curds washed with Penicillin mold during the ripening period
so that the mold spreads from the surface inward sometimes leaving
the center unpenetrated." More information than I really wanted but
sufficient nonetheless to dare to try it. He continued his measured
cadence, "Montafoner, Jochberg, Walder, Kugelkäse. . . . . .
." I'll take it, no matter what you said; what is it anyway? "Kugelkäse
are fresh ball shaped cheeses which are flavored with caraway seeds."
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Thorsten Piosczyk &
Michael Wiesinger |
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Meinl
am Graben VIP-TOUR As our dishes filled with the carefully arranged
assortment of exotic smelling cheeses, I couldn't help but notice the wealth
of knowledge and passion of Michael Wiesinger for these hand crafted treasures
that rarely make out of the country.
Our waiter Didier El Senosy, who made us feel so warm and secure throughout
our cuisine experience, now came to the table to ask if we could spend a
few minutes to meet the other team members in the kitchen. |
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Thorsten Piosczyk &
Dieter Breitkecker & Michael Wiesinger |
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Our guide led us into the modern
well-equipped work place to meet Dieter Breitkecker the talented Sous
Chef responsible for our delightful and creative dining experience.
Breitkecker is in his element in the kitchen and commands the respect
from his team members, a respect that has been garnered through years
of education, hard work and natural instinct.
Breitkecker excels in his work under the guidance of Executive Chef
Joachim Gradwohl who is quick to bestow an abundance of praise on
his protégé. Together with Restaurant Manager Hermann
Botolen and his assistant Michael Wiesinger, Meinl has found the right
formula that can bring continued success in the face of Vienna's discerning
international clientele. |
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by Simone
Buehrmann & Thorsten Piosczyk
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola
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