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| Shambala
Restaurant |
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| Le
Meridien, Vienna |
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Extraordinary - Society |
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5 Stars & 6 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine &
Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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We were really hungry, had reservations for two at the
'Shambala' restaurant which was created by Michel Rostang, the renowned
Michelin Chef from Paris with Executive Chef Christoph Brandstaetter. We were
welcomed with great smiles and warm hearts. The remarkable streamlined
architecture with its innovative furnishings alone is worth a visit, even if
only for a drink at the bar. This was in every sense of the word 'the art of
dining' and as we were soon to find out, 'dining as art'.
A pleasant
waiter approached us with an 'aqua carriage' offering 22 different kinds of
waters from around the world. We recognized Voss from Norway, Hildon from Great
Britain; but no Panna. A difficult choice, we tried, new to us, T´y`nant,
a natural mineral water, sparkling, from Wales, Great Britain that could easily
replace any of the Italian waters. |
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Surprise
The Aperitif de Vienna's Le
Méridien: Champagne with parfait d´amour (liqueur with cloves),
Grenadine, Blue Curacao - red like strawberry, fresh, tart and sparkling
offering at first a powerful dose of the sweetness from the liqueur and later a
tart freshness of the Curacao.
White bread with sesame and watercress
cream spread ~ that was our 1st tantalizing taste, a nice and easy
bread-spread. The grenadine was still lingering on our palates.
Greetings form the kitchen
- Shrimp ball with herb yogurt
sauce -
- Crisp and a little spicy, with several different kinds of
textures, gently fried, fluffy and fun to eat. We noted the expert balance
created by the addition of the cooling herbed yogurt sauce.
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| The atmosphere at the restaurant was intimate, softly
hushed with impeccable, unobtrusive service, somehow giving particular thought
to the meaning of Shambala as a 'mystic place of imagination' ~ somewhere in
Tibet. |
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Amuse
- Scallop and Meerwolf (sea
bass)
- A gorgeous arrangement of two delicate seafoods purposely paired
to reflect each others subtle sea notes of fresh ocean water.
- The whole concoction is
topped with crispy wafer of sesame toast and plump blanched St. Pierre tomato.
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| Simon's and my interest was now sufficiently peaked to
ask each other what to expect next and the answer came quickly with somewhat of
an ironic twist. We dared not ask for a clarification of the waiter's
description on our next appetizer until we had had time to sample
it: |
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Appetizer
- Terrine
of smoked tongue and cheek of pig and goose liver
- Not exactly my
idea of a typical appetizer although it is well known that Europeans have a
special way of making the most delicious creations out of all the unusual cuts
of meat. We had to admit that it proved to be a very interesting
experience!
- Morillon Steirische Klassik 2002
Tement
Morillon is the Styrian (province in Austria) name for Chardonnay
and the likes of this one can compete year after year with the best Chardonnays
of the world. Winemaker Manfred Tement made his first wine at age 16 and is
considered one of Austria's best vintners and modestly admits "The really good
wines make themselves."
- The style is rich, creamy and voluptuous
with a pleasant acidity, some subtle oak aging and full frontal fruit combined
in a light yellow color. A true 'Cult Wine'!
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| European waiters are trained for years until they are
fit to serve in fine dining establishments and that is here pretty obvious.
Dinner is served from noon until midnight. |
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Main Course I
- Wolfsbarsch
(European Bass) Fishsoup with chili and mixed assorted vegetables
- The secrete to a good fish soup is in the preparation of the court
bouillon made tastier by the use of as many fresh vegetables as possible. The
visual presentation is enhanced by its arrangement in a cannery jar that is
usually used for preservation. 'Imagination run wild' under the direction of
master chef Brandstaetter and his team.
The whole concoction was served
with the lid tightly sealed so when the server placed it in front of you and
opened it, an explosion of fresh ocean fumes immediately assailed the senses.
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- Sauvignon Blanc Summus 2002
Wohlmuth Laureate
- A delectable 'drink now' medium bodied wine with a
spicy character. It works well with the fresh seafood soup as it imparts
wafting aromas of fresh cut grass and McIntosh apple. Another superb example of
the up-and-coming winemaking prowess of southern Austria.
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| Although our table was in the middle of the dining
room we were seated in a comfortable, cozy booth which allowed us to keep 'A
romantic dinner for two' constantly on our mind. "May I kiss your hand,
Fraulein?" |
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Main Course II
- Rotbarbe (Red Mullet) on
sautéed Arugula and red pepper with purple mustard sauce decorated with
rosemary, cherry tomato and jumbo shrimp.
- The portions were generous
but never overwhelming. Brandstaetter plays with colors and textures as if the
plate were a canvas that can exhibit his art
- Cuvee Bertrand 2001
Gobelsburg
- A harmonious blend of Burgundy, Merlot and St Laurent
varietals making it an excellent choice to pair with the meaty red mullet,
peppery Arugula and piquant mustard sauce
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Intermezzo
- Lemonsorbet
doused with Moet et Chandon Brut imperial:
- - The tartness of the lemon
sorbet was a welcomed respite doing the job of cleaning the palate in a sort of
'seventh inning stretch' so to speak. This mid-dinner pause was further
enhanced by the addition of the driest of the Moet & Chandon champagnes. It
is known that Moet reserves its best cuvees for the bruts and this one reflects
an agreeable blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. The forward
feel of the lite mousse enters the palate with strength and exits in an
understated fashion releasing flavors of green apple and citrus
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Main Course
III:
- Filet of veal scalloped
with bärlauch (wild garlic), truffled mashed potato and spring
vegetables
- The neuron spiking truffeled mashed potatoes shall stay on
my gourmet mind along with the ingenious use of locally harvested wild garlic
as tasty method of holding in moisture and flavor. My
compliments.
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- Simone: Tetuna Goldenits
Burgenland
- 70% Blaufränkisch, 15% Zweigelt and 15% Cabernet
Sauvignon produced in the area around one of the largest Steppe lakes in
Europe. The soil provides an abundance of nutrients to support a multitude of
vineyards in the environs. Aromas of blackberries and plums surround the senses
with the palate receiving a slight hint of tannin and fruit at the finish.
- Thorsten: Blaufränkisch
Ried Gmaerk 2002 Triebaumer Ernst
- Another one of the exceptional wines
coming out of the Neusiedlersee-Heuggelland community of Rust a short distance
from the border of Hungary. This is a powerful wine not for the faint of heart
and is very rewarding in its focused structure and balance. The essence of
cherries and berries are woven like a tapestry into this dense and juicy red.
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| As the dinner plates were cleared, we decided to check
out the dessert options. I tried to remind myself that I shouldn't expect
anything less from Vienna judging from the overabundance of pastry shops, but
the Chef de patisserie of this café house dream deserves distinct
recognition for this creation, taste and art; a true Museum Quartier piece.
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Dessert Sampler
- Pyramid of passion fruit
covered with jelly and exotic mango egg roll Decorated with leaf of peppermint
- You expect to find this kind of art on display at the trendy new
Museum Quarter of Vienna surrounded by glass
- Fried banana scalloped
with blue cheese and sauce of Grand Manier
Once more combining the
unthinkable with sympathetic ingredients cohabitating nicely together
- Beerenauslese Cuvée
2002 Kracher www.kracher.net
- A blend of Chardonnay and
Welschriesling. Pungent and rich with excellent, refining acidity. Labeled a
"NOUVELLE VOGUE" with a #7 sweetness rating, it has a relatively high alcohol
development with a texture of silky smooth orange peel.
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| Kracher has been called the King of Austrian sweet
wines and owes his success to the prevalence of 'Botrytis cinerea' or noble
rot, a condition considered essential in achieving naturally sweet wines. "I am
lucky that the climate and the soil here work wonderfully together. I try to
bottle what nature gives me," says Alois Kracher unassumingly about the wines
some have called "Astonishing" and "The most delightful white wines you could
ever imagine." |
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| Roy Oude
Alink & Thorsten Piosczyk & Christoph Brandstaetter |
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Executive Chef
Christoph Brandstaetter's specialty is exotic & nutritional cuisine with a
Frensh twist. Brandsteatter was educated in ‘kitchens around the
world’ the international ‘fusion’ is present. Brandstaetter is a
creative food art designer with a bright future.
Brandstatter's
picnic baskets are famous for their creativity and beauty; just imagine how
romantic a lunch for two in springtime would be somewhere on the grounds of the
'Hofburg' (Imperial palace). He prepares these gourmet baskets (including a
tablecloth and blanket) with goodies like caviar, Jacobs's mussel tartar, and
lemon grass consommé. But ordered at least three hours in advance,
baskets may be filled with almost anything a true gourmet heart could desire.
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| Shambala is going to be a hot-spot, never the
traditional hotel restaurant, by any means. Brandstaetter's cuisine is light,
never fatty; he stays true to his healthy trend. But for his bouillabaisse
creation in a canning jar he shall be celebrated; the aroma of the soup was
simply superb. |
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by
Simone Buehrmann & Thorsten Piosczyk
Editor-in-Chief: John
Lomitola
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