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| Restaurant 'Stenhus' |
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| Tallinn,
Estonia |
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Society -
Extraordinary
May - 2009 |
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6 Stars
& 5 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| The location of the Schlössle Hotel's celebrated
Stenhus Restaurant lies just below the cobblestoned surface of the Hobbit-like
Old Town of Tallinn, where a perfectly preserved medieval setting has placed
the city on the UNESCO list as a venerated Cultural Heritage Sites. On
remarkably narrow streets where a Fiat Cinque Cento can barely fit you get the
feeling that the mystery continues once you make it past the entrance to a
thirteenth-century cellar. This is the domain of Executive Chef Tõnis
Siigur and his award-winning team, working their culinary alchemy. It is an
atmosphere suitable for a baron set under a rustic wine cellar inspired ceiling
and raw primeval fireplace suggesting a dreamy dinner for two under a blanket.
This is the same restaurant that catered to HM Queen Elizabeth II during her
visit to Tallinn prompting the regular clientele to expect the same
uncompromised high standards to continue. As this was our second visit to
Stenhus Restaurant, we too expected no less of Chef Tõnis Siigur and his
unbiased culinary raison d'être of consistent satisfaction of every
guest, for every experience. Our culinary journey began in the courtyard
sipping a welcome cocktail with Schlössle Hotel's GM Kay Peter Bischoff.
He informed us that this al fresco venue is open during the summer for lunch
and dinner, offering a whole new fresh air dynamic for dining enjoyment.
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| Restaurant
Stenhus |
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| GM Bischoff escorted us to the restaurant and to our
table next to Stenhus’s extensive wine cellar. High quality tapestries
adorned the walls of the catacomb-like warren of rooms in the restaurant,
giving us the feeling of attending a royal banquet sponsored by the Hanseatic
League. An inspired bread selection of parsley-parmesan, garlic roll, leek roll
and a dense Estonian country-style black bread with dried fruits and smoked ham
soon arrived. Attention had even been paid to the butter, which had crystals of
salt sprinkled on top and came from Normandy’s Isigny Ste Mere,
AOC. Chef Sigur’s Amuse Bouche of Gazpacho and Onion Pie, which
did the job of exciting the senses enough to begin to notice a trend. An
aperitif followed this consisting of Pommeau de Normandie, Christian
Drouin, a blend of Calvados and apple juice matured in oak for at least 18
months (per French law). |
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| So far so good we ventured,
and proceeded with the next course of EGG 62°C, Mushroom Casserole
including pleasantly pungent arugula greens and crispy bacon croutons. The
whole dish was topped with shaved truffles although my attention was drawn to
the graceful appearance of the precisely poached egg sitting delicately amidst
earthy mushrooms and truffles. Viña Montes Curico Sauvignon Blanc,
Casablanca Valley 2007, paired well offering a zippy zesty citrus aroma
laced with green melon and key lime, doing a nice job of tempering the
addictive truffle. |
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| The next course consisted of “Lady
Curzon” with Suckling Pig and Lemon Crème de Blanc, with the
emphasis on balance since there were plenty of contrasting flavors laid down
with Indian spices but tempered caramelized onions and crème. Sommelier
Sven Selvnik seemed to have a handle on his pairings to Chef Siigur’s
cuisine and we were not to be disappointed with his next selection of
Rüdesheim Riesling Trocken Georg Breuer Estate 2007. The balanced
acidity and dry palate with a hint of honey set the stage for a great partner
to the substantially flavored “Lady Curzon” entrée. By now it
was time for an exceptional Grilled Foie Gras with Riesling Jelly and
Brioche. For this selection, which has become a passion for me, the foie
gras is topped with a Riesling jelly glaze and set over a brioche toast point.
Together with a delightful spicy golden Pineau des Charentes, Maxime
Trijol cognac offering mellow velvet fruit, it delivered the ultimate
flavor profile in complimenting the rich foie gras. |
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Roasted Scallop with
Vanilla and Potato Puree, Whitefish Roe and Parmesan Espuma was presented
after a short pause although this small carefully selected entrée was
quite simply an exceptional refinement of a complicated set of ingredients. The
suggested wine paring for this was Chardonnay Albert Bichot ‘Chateau de
Darcy’ 2006 offered highly concentrated fruit reminiscent of white
peach within a balanced medium body. |
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| The tasting menu now provided for two main courses,
the first of which was Wood Pigeon with Champignon Duxelles and Onion Fluid
Gel, a striking rendition of roasted pigeon complimented by a robust dark
demi-glace fortified with a finely chopped shallot scented mushroom hash just
bursting with flavor. The recommended wine was Pinot Noir, Single Vineyard
Leyda Valley, Cahuil Vineyard Chile and we relished the soft red fruit
aromas while savoring the long finish and sharp tannins. The second main course
was decidedly our overall favorite featuring an agate red Prime Cut of Lamb,
Ratatouille and Mild Garlic Purée beautifully contrasting sharply
with a glossy dark glaze covering the entire chop. It was as if Chef Siigur set
his menu to the principals of Feng Shui to encourage the flow of positive
energy and deliver magic, mystery and order to the culinary world of his
followers. Wine for this entrée was Chateau Dasvin, Bel-Air Cru
Bourgeois Haut-Medoc AC, 1999 displaying refreshing red currents in a
balanced refined structure with luscious tannins. |
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| Restaurant
Stenhus - Award |
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| One of my all-time favorites for dessert in the form
of a lava-cake called Le Biscuit de Chocolat Coulant literally flowed
like molten lava when I cut into it and a concentrated cherry compote added a
deeply flavorful stone fruit dimension. We sipped a passionate Niepoort
Colheita 1991 all the while savoring its complex sweet soothing character
with likable citrus aromas. Petit Fours including almond and coconut tuille as
well as chocolate truffles arrived just in time to conclude an enjoyable dining
experience wrapped in the poised imagination of Chef Siigur and his Sous Chef
Madis Ental. Our experience left us feeling that whenever we come to Tallinn
there will always be a sign hanging from the entrance of Stenhus with the
words: “Tere, kodu” (Welcome home!) |
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“It was as if Chef Siigur set his menu to the principals of Feng
Shui
to encourage the flow of positive energy and deliver magic,
mystery and order to the culinary world of his followers.” ~
TB |
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by
Thorsten & Edmund Buehrmann
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2009 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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