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| Berlin -
Germany |
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Society -
Extraordinary
October - 2007 |
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6 Stars
& 5 Stripes
Overall - 'Cuisine & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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| A heartwarming feeling of welcomed embrace for a
long-awaited friend permeated the air as we passed through the entrance to the
VAU Restaurant. Could this be the spirit of the original socialite Rahel
Jarnhagen, who some 200 years ago invited the intellectual elite of Berlin to
gather at this locale for conversation and debate? With its location on the
Gendarmenmarkt, noted in guidebooks as “one of Europe's loveliest
squares”, VAU has consistently attracted the cuisine aficionado to its
hallowed grounds for Internationally recognized food and affectionate
hospitality. The impetus behind the simple philosophy of fresh, seasonal
products - where possible from the Berlin area coupled with the feeling of
“eating with friends” is the brainchild of
Executive
Chef and owner Kolja Kleeberg. One of our first impressions, as we entered
the restaurant on this cold March evening in Berlin, was of Restaurant Manager
Petra Kleeberg smiling sweetly as she greeted us and then led us past a perfect
row of tables. Upon each was placed a precious living Phalaenopsis Orchid,
elegantly bending from the weight of its radiant white flowers. |
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| Then we were ushered into the
bowels of the Kohlenkeller (coal cellar) by Chef de Rang Eva Westphal for an
intimate aperitif of Duval Leroy Brut Champagne. It was soft in the
mouth, rich, well-structured and despite the lumps of East German brown coal
that surrounded us on the bookshelves, it left us feeling warmed to the core as
if the lingering lignite was radiating behind us. |
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| It was time to press on with the dinner arrangements
and soon we were escorted to our table in the Salon Rahel, offering large
windows onto the stylish Jägerstraße. Our server and sommelier for
the evening, Claudia Albrecht, sought to put us at ease with her charming
recantation of the nights specials, thereby conjuring up delicious visions of
Chef Kolja's world-renowned creations. We were introduced to his repertoire
with the first course of Roasted Lobster with Black Salsify, Blood Orange
and Almond paired with a classic Austrian wine from Südsteirmark,
Sauvignon Blanc, Erwin Sabathi 2007. This was a standout in terms of
creative flavor profiling coupling the 'artichoke-like” suggestion of the
salsify with the sweet and mellow notes of the blood orange. Next came
Anglerfish with Fennel, Bouchot Mussels and Saffron a true treat for
gourmets with a taste and texture similar to crayfish and topped with
outrageously plump Bouchot mussels in a translucent yellow saffron sauce
infused with a sliver of sharp fennel bulb. This was appropriately served with
a glass of 2004 Primus Inter Pares, Sylvaner Trocken, Michael Teschke,
Rheinhessen displaying a full and harmonious palate and lingering
finish. |
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| 2008 -
Award-Hand-Out: VAU Restaurant, Berlin - Germany |
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Another standout for the seasonal menu of Chef
Kolja was Braised Veal Shank with Broiled Tardivo and Creamy Polenta, a
fall-off-the-bone, melt in your mouth delight. Coupled with the supurb
bittersweet flavor of tardivo, a type of radiccio and the creamy sweetness of
the polenta, it proved to be the highlight of the menu. I couldn't help but
savor the wine pairing of the unique 'made-for-VAU' Chianti, 2004 Pavone
VAU, Montalcino Toscana with its very intense ruby-red color, rich clean
bouquet, elegant spice and sweet tannins. We finished the evening with a
structural masterpiece of Crème of Mascapone with Blood Orange
Granité and Sal Ammoniac. We topped off the tasting with 2006
Leitz Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Beerenauslese with an encyclopedia
of flavors and extraordinary richness. I can only say that from my experience,
Chef
Kleeberg and his team continue to create revolutionary new takes on the
fresh clean ingredients which are available in today's gastronomic marketplace.
He continues to electrify the lucky ones who find the path to VAU's
door. |
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| “He continues to electrify the lucky ones who find the path to
VAU's door.” ~ JL |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann, John Limotola & Bernd Deyerler
Editor: John
Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2008 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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