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| Hotel
Eden Roc |
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| Ascona -
Switzerland |
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Society |
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| August
- 2003 |
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6 Stars
& 6 Stripes
Overall - 'Hotel & Service' |
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The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes® |
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It was a totally incredible feeling, the kind of feeling you get only
when something
really good unexpectedly happens to you, the feeling of
freedom,
of suspended animation of space and time,
the feeling of
flying without wings.
John Lomitola |
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| This
kind of thing that only happens in ones dreams; here we were literally flying
over the German autobahn just inches above a smooth surface in astonishing
luxury and comfort. The vehicle, a road worthy
VW Phaeton V-10 TDI; the destination, the city of Ascona
on Lago Maggiore at the southern edge of the Swiss Alps; the purpose, to spend
several days of pampered indulgence at the Hotel Eden Roc. The team: Thorsten,
Stefan and myself, abundantly equipped with overwhelming enthusiasm and
anticipation of a special review at the “Il piacere del Sud” –
“The pleasures of the South”. Anxiously looking at the GPS display to
judge how much further our automotive pleasure will continue before we are
reaching our destination Hotel Eden Roc Ascona, in Ticino canton. After finding
our way easily to Ascona through some of the most picturesque mountainous
scenery one can imagine, with Lago Maggiore as an inspiring backdrop, our first
impression of the resort is promising. The driveway to the entrance is lined
with harmonious sculptures woven together as sort of flowing fountains of 'feng
shui'. |
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A manicured doorman opens our
car door with quiet elegance and after a warm greeting makes a soft enquirey
about the
VW Phaeton, which continues to draw attention. We silently
enter into a shining marble hall of an Italian palazzo through the discreet
glass doors of what is called an entry but more closely resembles a costly
glass cabinet.
Our host Mr.
Daniel
Ziegler is waiting and welcomes us with a friendly smile and introduced us
to Vice-Director Marco Bürlimann. Realizing our need to freshen up and
unwind, we are shown to our rooms with the promise to meet back in the lobby
shortly for a glass of wine followed by a
personalized
tour of the premises. |
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GM
Daniel J. Ziegler and Thorsten Piosczyk |
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We
reached our suites by walking through what seemed like someone's private
residence in silent luxury, reflecting a refined fusion of glamour, futurism
and tradition. As the door to
our
suite swung open, what awaited us was simply awe inspiring and precious.
There in front of us a panorama of Lago Maggiore framed by mountains rising
steeply from the shore, a soft mist hovering above the ancient lake leading to
the Brissago islands and the frontier of Italy on the horizon. Could this be
the Mediterranean I asked myself while knowing full well the accuracy of the
GPS system of the
VW Phaeton was beyond reproach.
Apparently a
microclimate prevails over the lake with the Alps protecting it from the cold
northern air resulting in a surprising diversity of plant life including many
palms and other sub-tropical flora. This is great I thought: 'Come to
Switzerland to lay under a palm tree!'
Although mesmerized by the
staggering views, I realized that Marco was waiting for us in the lobby and I
tried to push us all to move in that direction. As we hurried through the halls
on our way down to the lobby to keep our appointment with Marco for a
personalized tour of the premises, we each seemed somewhat out of sorts. The
view from our suites had already begun to work its magic, our perception of our
surroundings intensified and the short walk to the lobby promised to reveal an
underlying feeling of colorful harmony, peace and relaxation. |
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Thorsten
& Vice-Director Marco Bürlimann |
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Marco took us deep within the
bowels of the resort and
showed
us his treasure chest – the house wine cellar with his favourite wine:
Vinattieri Ticinesi 94, which we were told resembles a fine Merlot and is
produced locally. I recognized the wide selection of world–class wines
stored here for the pleasure of the guests of the hotel, over 300 vintages, but
Marco insisted that we taste his favorite local wine this evening at dinner at
La Brezza; ok – we think we can handle that.
We stopped at the
laundry; Marco showed us 'a wonder-machine you just throw a wet sheet in and it
comes out in seconds ironed, dried and folded!' - please don’t send all
your cleaning to Marco. |
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| Our
tour now wound its way into the public areas of the resort and Thorsten noted
the presence of fresh flowers all over the place. It seems that Eden Roc
employs the talents of a full time florist on premise. Led through the
magnificent hallways towards the guest rooms and conference areas, the route
took us past original designer furniture that could have been works of art on
display in a museum. Legs of chairs, tables and
couches
seemed to come alive with tropical plants and lighting fixtures sprouting from
their tops. We didn't know whether to sit down and relax or stand in awe and
admire the distinctiveness of the shapes. Marco told us that after taking over
the neighboring Hotel Europa, the management hired a design team led by the top
Swiss architect, Carlo Rampazzi to handle a complete renovation. It couldn't
have come at a better time since a disasterous flood in 2000 raised the level
of Lago Maggiore enough to cause extensive damage to the resorts. |
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The management had asked
Rampazzi to 'blend the characteristic features of the two hotels, while
maintaining the romantic Mediterranean atmosphere as the centerpiece.' In our
humble opinion, the objective has been successfully accomplished with style and
elegance and
a new 6 Stars &
Stripes luxury hotel was born with 3 different restaurants in an
unsurpassed location.
After a period of closure due to reconstruction,
the combined efforts emerged resulting in 82 air-conditioned deluxe rooms and
deluxe suites that present a breathtaking view of the lake, a wellness area
with indoor and outdoor pools, sauna, fitness and massage while hairdressing,
facials and nail care are offered at the Clarins Beauty Center. |
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The
magnificent hotel garden ends directly on
the
shore of Lake Maggiore where a private marina and water-ski school are also
available for the guests. It seems as though absolutely nothing was missed that
could make ones visit here more pleasurable and all this reflects the well
thought out planning that ensued prior to the renovation.
Marco
suggested that we proceed to the lobby to relax while he prepared some
literature and CD Rom information on the hotel for us to take back for future
reference. I think it was Thorsten who came up with the idea to challenge Marco
upon his return, to develop a special outing for us to make use of the
following day so that we could take the
VW Phaeton into the surrounding area to view some of the
highlights of the Ticino region.
I guess that what we got in return
was beyond our expectation and within minutes of our request, Marco had mapped
out a most fantastic voyage into the valleys surrounding Ascona for a full
day's excursion including several surprises of unsurpassed spontaneity. Best of
all, it was his pleasure to lead us through it himself, to give us a personal,
up front and sincere insight into adventures seldom experienced by outsiders
like us. All this was being scheduled for the next day, which turned out to be
his only day off. What glorious expectations awaited us! (And surprises too,
thanks to Marco's ingenuity) |
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We now had an entire night to
think about the next day's activities and there was still a lot more about the
resort that was yet to be discovered. Tonight, our reservations were to be in
the flagship gourmet restaurant of Eden Roc called 'La Brezza' which offers
first-rate Mediterranean cuisine and is supported by the superb wine cellars,
which we had visited earlier, but more on that later in our separate cuisine
review. |
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Eden
Roc also offers two other eateries including 'La Casetta', the Italian
restaurant located directly on the shores of Lake Maggiore. This is not only a
great restaurant for al fresco dining on the patio within reach of the gorgeous
lake; it is also an historical building with an intriguing past. It seems that
just before the official end to WWII, a truce was negotiated secretly between
Allied and German military commanders in Italy, which led to their
unconditional surrender to help shorten the war and save many lives.
The other choice is Restaurant Eden Roc, which offers classical French
gastronomy coupled with a calm and relaxing setting to compliment the daily
changing menus.
Slowly its all making sense to us, Eden Roc has
something for everyone including a Mini-Club for kids; a place where they can
hang out while the parents can act like children in another part of the hotel.
Now the question came up: 'Is it a hotel or is it a resort?' and we debated it
with each other for a few minutes. We all agreed conclusively that a resort
offers its guests the diversity needed to keep one challenged and engaged while
achieving a state of relaxation and stress reduction. This pretty much defines
the Eden Roc from inside out, combined with the fact that even though the
average stay for a guest is 5 days, often it can be several months. What a
sublime thought… |
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| I think
when I alluded to the possibility of staying for something like a month or
more, I could have forgotten to mention that it all comes together with style
and grace and ends in your room when you turn in after a busy day for a
refreshing rest. Furnishings have been well thought out as if inspired by the
‘Masters’ of canvas and sculpture and reflect the style from
minimalist through purist to ornate. All rooms are equipped with the state of
the art technical refinements (even the electrical chords were bundled together
neatly), including remote control communications systems for lighting, TV,
games, internet, ISDN telephone and automated wake up. Did I mention that there
is a ‘terrace couch’ on the balcony comfortable enough to sleep on
with a major view of the lake and dazzling sunsets? |
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| American Dream
Cuisine™ |
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La
Brezza Restaurant
Hotel Eden Roc |
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| In
Ascona, Switzerland receives |
|
Society |
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6 Stars
& 6 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™ |
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There's great news coming out of Ascona on the banks
of the beautiful azure Lago Maggiore in southern Switzerland. Hotel Eden Roc
has done it again and proven that its stature as luxury playground for those
who insist on nothing but the best in service, hospitality and cuisine is
justified. The Eden Roc, led by General Manager Daniel Ziegler and his highly
trained staff, has moved into the rarefied position of earning another stripe
for its already proven track record. It now means that with 6 Stars and 6
Stripes, the Eden Roc Hotel is only within one star of "World Class
Perfection".
The Seven Stars and Stripes Global Award team recently had
the privilege to return to the premises for update review of this fabulous
all-encompassing resort and at the behest of Mr. Ziegler, literally "to look
into every corner and around every turn". The original visit in 2003 resulted
in awarding a very high level of perfection on this grandiose and stately
establishment. |
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| In particular, the La Brezza
Restaurant at the Hotel Eden Roc has set new standards by raising the bar to
lead by example on the cutting edge of the Nouveau European Cuisine. Under the
tutelage of Executive Chef Rolf Krapf La Brezza has managed to produce the same
consistent satisfying experience for all who are lucky enough to discover,
experience and to dine. Chef Krapf also takes a personal interest in the
service and presentation of his unique creations, thereby guaranteeing a true
reflection of his committed passion for his cuisine. |
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Thorsten Piosczyk & Rolf Krapf |
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“La Brezza is an oasis at the Lago Maggiore. Artistry is
evidenced
in the kitchen of Krapf, he'll keep us writing." ~ TP |
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| At the behest of GM Mr. Zeigler, Our Global Awards
team discovered, experienced and ate their way through umpteen courses of
delectable superbly concocted original creations produced by the La Brezza
dream team. After all, Chef Krapf is also approaching the equally prestigious
"16 Chef Hats" award from Gault Millau and this gastronomic marathon only
reaffirmed the Chef's adherence to our own unique set of rigorous criteria.
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We began our evening with
heightened anticipation as to the ‘new order’ of surprises in store
for us on this memorable occasion. After being seated, my normally pragmatic
spirit at once focused with ease on the tranquil effect of the panoramic views
through to the mesmerizing Lago Maggiore. Two glasses of Laurent Perrier
Champagne were thrust in front of my dream-like apparition and I eagerly
savored their fine golden straw colored mousse. Knowing full well that only the
finest grapes from the best vintages are utilized, I was pleased with the broad
spectrum of citrus scents and delicate nose that characterize this consistently
pleasing champagne. |
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"Two glasses of Laurent Perrier Champagne were thrust in front of my
dream-like
apparition and I eagerly savored their fine golden straw colored
mousse." ~ TP |
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| Our attention now shifted as the beautiful first
course arrived for us to sample. Beef Carpaccio with Provencal
Vegetables was the opening salvo and we took special note of the
wafer-thin, lightly marbled ruby colored slices of beef. It became immediately
obvious to us that Chef Krapf indulges in only the finest products available to
him at any given time and works his magic through the artful attention given to
each preparation. This was also true of the Smoked
Salmon with Fresh Garden Salad and Eggplant Salsa. |
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| I was further amazed by the
melt-in-your mouth quality of the salmon coupled with the tantalizing hint of
apple wood smoke. My level of satisfaction seemed to elevate with every moment
spent savoring each bite. Our good fortune of coinciding this visit to La
Brezza with the beginning of spring provided us with powerful tasting examples
of this early harvest including fresh locally grown asparagus. Poached St.
Peter’s Fish Rouladen over Fresh Glazed Green Asparagus offered
flavors bursting with spring’s freshness by careful steaming and
co-mingling with the delicate, subtleness of the fish. |
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| For the moment it was appropriate to dive into the
attractive arrangement of fresh house made breads sitting at the center of the
table. Chef Krapf’s team produces its own bread from scratch specializing
in whole grain varieties of wheat, barley and oatmeal. It was the ‘laugen
brot’ (barley bread) that caught my eye covered with ‘mohn’ or
poppy seeds. It seemed to go well with the soft subtle lemony flavor of the
terrific Greek olive oil placed on the table by the server as soon as he saw me
reaching for the ‘staff of life’. As we dug deeper into the pile of
bread, our photographer Arno shouted “Speck Brot!” (Smoked bacon
bread) and quickly stuffed a sizeable piece into mouth with paprika butter
before I could react. |
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Our dutiful server placed a
fine bottle of Bianco D’Oro Kerner Terreni alla Maggia, Ascona
directly in front of us and announced that this local gem of a wine would serve
as our mainstay beverage to get us through the next course. We tipped the glass
to our nose and noticed the intense bouquet of apple blossoms while observing
its light green and yellow hue. This event brought forth the main courses of
Roasted
Sea Bream over Braised Artichokes and Spring Vegetables for Arno and
for me Roasted Brazilian Beef on Eggplant and Zucchini Picatta.
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To make sure that the pronounced flavors of the
Brazilian beef were dutifully accommodated, a bottle of Quattromani Merlot
Brivio, Delea, Gialdi, Tamborini was suggested as the accompaniment to this
extroverted creation. This wine was literally born out of the ‘hands’
of four individuals of noteworthy winemaking distinction named on the label.
While taking two years to develop and by using only the best grapes from each
of the four vineyards, the results added up to a well structured deep red wine
with dried fruit permeating throughout showing notes of dark chocolate and
smoke. Seven Stars & Stripes Tip: Don’t miss this wine; it is truly an
outstanding innovation.
It is evident that Chef Krapf and his team have
taken great pains to focus on the well-crafted but little known wines of Ticino
and have designed their original recipes to pair exceptionally well with them.
With our main courses having been cleared from the table, Chef Krapf was now
positioned to present the grand finale with the opening salvo being the rather
large cheese wagon slowly approaching the table. Certainly in keeping with the
tradition of emphasizing local products, La Brezza offers an astonishing
selection of regional fresh and aged cheeses combined with an assortment of
fresh and dried fruits. Our personal favorite was an ash covered fresh goat
cheese laced with black truffles and a particularly sharp hunk of 3-year-old
local Parmigiano.
All in all, our return this year to
La
Brezza and encountering the talents of its innovative Executive Chef proved
to us once again that creativity, consistency and elegance reign while
providing a solid foundation for a great culinary experience in a unique
environment. |
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"Hotel Eden Roc has done it again and proven that its stature as
luxury playground for
those who insist on nothing but the best in service,
hospitality and cuisine is justified." ~ TP |
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It has now come time for a fitting end to an
absolutely marvelous evening drifting through culinary paradise in
La
Brezza Restaurant. We decided to 'retire' to the famous
Eden
Bar for an after dinner cocktail or what Stefan calls "Absacker". What
makes it famous is the fact that the personable bartender
Maurizio
Cassaro was awarded the runner-up prize for ‘Bartender of the
Year’ in all of Switzerland.
It was easy to see how he could have
been selected out of thousands of candidates in this competition since his
professional demeanor was surpassed only by his infectious smile and gracious
hospitality. From what we have observed during our brief stay here, this is the
common thread that is woven by the management at Eden Roc Hotel throughout the
entire staff and results in a cohesive, well coordinated and accommodating
team. |
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| Maurizio
was proud of his accomplishment in the nationwide bartender's competition and
decided to share with us the special drink he created that helped him score so
high in the contest. |
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The
Eden Dream
11/2 oz Cachaca (Brazilian Rum)
1 oz St James
Rum
5 oz Pinapple Juice
3 oz Grapefruit Juice
Splash Passionfruit
Juice |
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| Maurizio's EDEN DREAM
cocktail was presented to us at precisely the right moment when the evening was
winding down and the prospect of sleeping under the stars drew me like a
powerful magnet towards the terrace of my suite. |
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The
special effect of the 'microclimate', fresh air, mountains and lake produced
one of the best restful nights for all of us. In case you're wondering, I did
lay out on the patio for a few hours, sightseeing the constellations and myriad
of stars that illuminated the hills surrounding Lago Maggiore with a sort of
mystical glow.
Upon wakening, we were treated to a most
unbelievable
panoramic view of calmness and tranquility produced by the ancient gifts of
nature; jagged mountains, deep green valleys and decidedly cool blue waters.
Breakfast is available in-room upon request, if you simply hang your order on
the latch of the door prior to 3am. Your order will be delivered according to
your wishes at precise 15-minute intervals beginning at 7am.
Our
desire was to leisurely stroll on down and enjoy a fantastic breakfast buffet
in the Eden Roc restaurant prior to the beginning of our surprise tour of the
surrounding area with Marco. This promises to be a very special day for us
all. |
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Just before indulging in the
sumptuous breakfast buffet, a little exercise regimen was in order and Stefan
and Thorsten decided to swim a few laps. Upon entering the
pool
they discovered the most remarkable thing, one is able to swim from the inside
to the outside part of the pool.
Once outside, it is as if you are
surrounded by all kinds of tropical foliage including date palms and banana
trees. It is also suffice to say that the view presents itself all encompassing
and dares you to connect with the ever-present Lago Maggiore at eye level.
After the swim, a quick dip in the whirlpool and then the steam room was called
for. |
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It
wasn't long before the rumble of tummies led the boys to dry off before going
up to the breakfast buffet in the Eden Roc Restaurant.
With the smell
of freshly brewed coffee drifting through the marbled hallways, the urgency to
get settled into the breakfast buffet propelled us even faster to make it all
happen. Thorsten and Stefan had the inclination to start with the wide
selection of locally produced meats and cheeses, the kind your most gourmet
shop would have available back home. Yogurts abound with at least four choices
along with various muesli, granola, nuts, raisins, fresh figs and dates to
place on top. Juice is just as difficult a decision for us since the selection
includes fresh orange, grapefruit, red or black currant, papaya, carrot or
tomato.
More importantly, we all agreed that the appropriate thing at
this moment was to satisfy the coffee urge! It seems amazing to me that coffee
tastes so much better when served in elegant silver pots and poured into fine
bone china cups by expert servers using the underliner to guard you from any
unintentional splashes. That is stylish, well trained service at its best and
we all agreed to the feeling of gratified pampering.
As we continued
with breakfast, our view of the lake produced the magnificent effect of
tranquility and peace as if 'angles had sent us here' according to Thorsten.
When Marco arrived to join us for breakfast, he came equipped with our
itinerary for the special outing. |
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We were lulled by the
casualness of him telling us "I have prepared a little something for us to do
today." We were about to find out what 'a little something' really meant in the
vocabulary of Eden Roc's high level of standards. "Are you sure you have a few
hours to spare?" Marco asked testing us to see if we may have had a change of
heart.
Personally, I very much looked forward to checking out the
surrounding valleys and villages, which I had read so much about in the run-up
to this trip. I wanted to see for myself if the area supported our exceptional
experience, which Eden Roc had supplied for us up to now. With breakfast fading
fast as a priority, Stefan made his way to the lobby to fire up the chariot
while Thorsten and I prepared the camera equipment to record our special
outing. |
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As we
left the driveway of the hotel we literally had no idea of what was in store
for us on that bright, balmy morning. Marco told us to punch in some
coordinates into the GPS of the
Phaeton and we took off riding softly on a cloudless day
up and up along well maintained Swiss serpentine highways into what seemed like
'seventh heaven'. Riding alongside sheer cliffs that hover above distant rivers
down below, constantly negotiating switch back turns while steadily ascending
in altitude made for an exhilarating climb. Somehow it felt like we were in one
of the James Bond movies being pursued by some thugs with shoulder fired
missiles… but not that fast … Our first stop was the "Verzasca Dam"
… 220 m (722 feet) high
We were almost totally surrounded by
mountains with an enormous amount of concrete at one end holding back a serene
sea of slate colored water. As we perched ourselves at the top of the dam,
looking down was dizzying to the point of a serious vertigo attack. Stefan
mumbled something in German to the effect of "What an outstanding view!" Macro
told us, that this was the dam used in the James Bond movie - Goldeneye where
they filmed the 'bungy jump' scene… At this point, we were truly ready to
feel the original James Bond bungy jump without actually attempting it...
please
take a closer look..., Thorsten may have been tempted when he saw the
platform, but so said, it was not open for business at this time . ;-)
Not a bad start for a lite morning excursion into the ‘hills’; what
could possible follow? Marco indicated that it was time to move into another
valley ‘just around the corner’ so to speak in Swiss terms, which
could mean a half-day’s journey over treacherous terreine. “Not to
worry”, he said as we dodged another oncoming vehicle along the impossibly
narrow roadways. |
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Though our destination was
still a mystery, the promise of things to come repeated itself often with every
picture postcard village we passed through clinging precipitously to the lush
green mountain slopes.
As we rounded another turn, Marco casually
asked if anyone was a little hungry yet, to which we couldn’t help but
wonder if all they do around here is eat, especially after our sumptuous
breakfast. Not realizing that the time was now after noon and the altitude was
elevated enough to qualify for a short rest stop, Marco pointed to place to
pull the
Phaeton off the road near a ancient looking stone bridge
in the village of Lavertezzo. |
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A quick
look down revealed enormous boulders haphazardly strewn along the bed of an ice
green colored glacially fed river over which the old stone bridge was built.
Closer examination brings to light that we are about to cross an ancient Roman
bridge toward which Marco is now leading us. Macro told us that the local young
men make it a sport of jumping from the bridge in the summer when the snow melt
swollen waters are 14°C “warm” – he did it too. “Once
when you are on – there is no return.” Marco said somewhat
sheepishly! “That is why it is called ‘Ponte dei Salti’ (bridge
of the jumps).”
Marco walked us over the ‘Roman’
bridge towards the densely forested opposite side which looked to us very much
like a grotto. He led us safely across while preparing us for our second
‘surprise’. Please come with us over the bridge, and explore a
treasured
secret... A very special little restaurant Motto tucked deep into the side
of the mountain awaited us and the hospitable owners shared some of their
homemade wine with us. It is traditionally sipped from ceramic cups for good
luck and we settled in and had an “original” lunch with homemade
cheeses, sausage and locally produced crusty bread. “Who could asked for
more?” queried Thosten in a moment of sincere satisfaction. The
proprietors of restaurant Motto, Ms. & Mr. Celio & Fiorella Togni
joined us briefly to tell us of many of their relatives and neighbors that have
emigrated to the United States and now have a small Ticinese community growing
there. We all posed for pictures together and promised each other to meet again
some day to reminisce our special time together.
Marco pushed on,
eventhough he had succeeded in lulling us into a full sense of contentment and
finality. Stefan asked quietly ‘What could possibly be next?’ and
Thorsten agreed that this must be the moment when we will return to the Resort.
Surely after spending several hours under the expert supervision of our genuine
tour guide, the outing must be coming to an end. “Lets return to the Eden
Roc” Marco said which only confirmed our intuitive feelings. |
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Driving back was a pleasurable
challenge again and the movement down the mountain only accentuated the
sensation of winding down to a fitting end. “Let’s have the car
parked and we’ll take a quick walk to the resort’s dock to see if
anyone is fishing there” Marco said casually.
Upon arrival at
the dock, we didn’t see anyone fishing but what we did see only
strengthened our impression of this well run establishment. There, alone on the
dock was the incredible sight of the sommelier Mr. Sergio Bassi from ‘La
Brezza’, standing next to a tall table upon which was placed an elegant
silver ice bucket with a bottle of Veuve Clicquot and several
glasses. |
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Please
take a closer look |
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We were focused on the picture of this well dressed manicured
sommelier polishing glasses all by himself and we failed to notice the super
sleek Chris Craft model Tony Giugliano tied up nearby.
The
plan began to reveal itself to us. Marco had arranged for this magnificent
vessel to be placed at our disposal for a
leasurely
cruise on the yacht through the lake. Well, needless to say we were
speechless at this point and only the steady powerful rumble of the idling
engines worked to put us back in reality. The captain, Mr. Jean-Claude Meier,
beckoned us to remove our shoes and step aboard. He had been waiting to take us
on a special excursion on Lago Maggiore to be able to view and experience what
others seldom get to do.
We pulled away from the dock to the sound of
engines purring and the sight of a wake of foam building. Picking up speed, we
passed by villa after villa perched precipitously on the sides of sheer cliffs.
The engines began to roar louder as we picked up speed and started to level off
as if skimming a few inches over the lake surface. We felt elated, trying to
talk to each other over the din of the twin 360 hp Ischia engines without much
luck. Stefan stood up to get a better look at the beautifully foliated island
approaching fast, but shouted that it was the 'symphony of scents' that peaked
his interest. No one heard him until we noticed that wafting through the air
were the delicate fragrances of eucalyptus, lavender, lemon and curry, which
could 'seen' even with our eyes closed.
As we passed close to the
Brissago Islands we slowed quickly, conversation picked up, and we could hear
each other again. "The Alps to the north protect the islands from the cold
northern air" captain Jean-Claude informed us, "This is the most northerly
place that these sub-tropical plants can grow". |
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Marco
as an official Champagne Knight |
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We now slowed to a crawl and
prepared to anchor near the idyllic island. Marco recovered an icy cold bottle
of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut NV Champagne and several fluted glasses. The
intense curiosity of what was about to occur was noticeable even behind
Stefan's aviator shades. Marco now reached for something under a cushion and
without hesitation drew out a ceremonial sword to which we all unconsciously
took a small step back. |
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What
we were about to find out was that Marco is an official 'Champagne Knight' or
'Ritter' in German, one of only 4 such qualified knights in all of Switzerland.
Marco explained that he would now attempt to open the bottle of Veuve Cliquot
with his sword. "Why?" would you ask, does someone need to open a perfectly
good bottle of champagne with a sword when all you have to do is pull on the
cork. I never really understood that.
Tradition has it that 'Sabrage'
(the art of opening a bottle with a sabre), started when Madame Clicquot of the
aforementioned champagne family, gave some bottles of her exquisite juice to
some of Napoleon's soldiers. As they rode off on horseback, they were only able
to keep control of their horses and open the bottles simultaneously by drawing
their sabers and beheading the bottle with a single strke of the blade. Hence
the art that is still practiced today in some traditional societies.
It was reassuring to note that the amount of champagne lost overboard during
this procedure was negligible even considering the number of back-up bottles
brought along in case of an unfourtunate misguided stroke. |
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| Marco’s accuracy proved
unwavering and we were delightfully coasting along on ‘tiny bubbles’.
As our pilot Jean-Claude nudged the polished craft along, he reminded us that
Ascona
has become the new ‘Fischer’s Island’ referring to the elite
Florida island stronghold of celebrities and stars. “It has evolved into a
place where people can feel safe and secure without worrying about locking cars
or homes” he whispers. |
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Please
take a closer look |
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We
should proceed now to the village of Ascona our pilot says, to disembark at the
town square. While approaching the village dock, it was as if we were entering
our own private paradise aboard a luxury yacht, a sort of ‘sub-tropical
pearl of Switzerland’. More surprises awaited us behind closed doors!
A quick off load and we were thrust into another world of strolling
villagers and we stood there waving good bye to our experienced and personable
pilot Jean-Claude. It was a gorgeous Sunday afternoon and town was bathed in
vivid multicolored sunlight filtering through the treelined lakefront walk. As
we started to follow Marco to our next 'who knows what' destination, we noticed
that Thorsten was missing from our team. We all knew that Thorsten had a
tendency to just run into total strangers and strike up animated conversations
that could sometimes last for quite a while. Although this in itself was not
alarming, what we saw when we found him had all the makings of a Felliniesque
scene. Thorsten was standing in front of a
lifelike
robed statue by the lake trying to determine if it were alive or not. But
as soon as he heard us call him, he turned away; suddenly the statue reached
out and placed its hand on his head thereby spawning a trifling 'cat that ate
the mouse' grin. |
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Please
take a closer look |
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Once reunited with us,
Thorsten fell in line as Marco led us up a narrow cobble stone street to a
small quaint shop. He knocked. No one answered. He knocked again. This time a
faint voice in a local dialect responded and a young man let us in. His name
was Urs Mäder and Marco had arranged for a special private wine tasting at
this wonderful little wine boutique.
American Dream Hot
Tip:
" Cantina
dell'Orso Sagl " |
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Urs led
us to a room behind the store area where he had set up for a
tasting
of Ticinese wines specializing in local producers in and around Ascona.
With fireplace roaring and glasses set, I think by the look on our faces we
were indeed ready! Urs told us that eventhough he was born in Alpenzellerland
(farm country to the north), he moved to Ticino to persue his passion in wine.
His formula for the tasting was simple, start with the basics and step up
to the next level until you reach the seventh group, which is the least
produced but highest quality, kind of like the shape of a pyramid. We were even
introduced to a special 'white merlot', the description of which seemed like an
oxymoron; merlots are supposed to be red aren't they?
Urs proved to
be extremely knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the local wines, most of
which have yet to be discovered by the US market. What we learned that day
could fill volumes, but we came out with a new appreciation for these high
quality, hand crafted works of art. Some of our favorites include: Quattromani
2000, Ticino (4 producers together in one bottle) Culdree Barrique 2000,
Ticinio (only 1,800 bottles produced)
As we began to gather our
things to leave, Urs couldn't help but stuff several bottles of his and our
favorites into our bags. One bottle of Culdree Barrique 2000 actually made it
all the way home to Montauk where I shared it with friends and family on a
special evening.
What would you expect now that we had just finished
an enjoyable afternoon tucked away who knows where, under the expert care and
guidance of our wine connaiseur Urs Mäder discovering and sampling the
precious secrets of Ticino? Well, just outside the door to the wine boutique
Cantina Dell'Orso Sagl, Marco had arranged an Eden Roc limo to be waiting at
precisely the right moment we were ready to leave. I sort of thought of myself
as a leaf in a fall breeze somehow being guided safely and happily from place
to place around the greatest countryside, only to land softly each
time. |
|
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| American Dream
Cuisine™ |
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| Ristorante Stazione |
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| In
Intragna, Switzerland receives |
|
Extraordinaire - Society |
|
5 Stars
and 6 Stripes for
Extaordinaire - Society Cuisine &
Service |
|
The
Ultimate Award:
Seven Stars and
Stripes™ |
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Our
driver smiled and exchanged Swiss Ticinese dialect with Marco, they laughed and
we were off to another surprise somewhere over the next mountain. Laughing is
universal, I thought as we passed through another beautifully quaint village
and crossed some railroad tracks finally stopping in front of the RR station.
But what's this? Upon closer inspection what we were about to enter was a
restaurant built into a former RR station of the Swiss National Railway system.
Hense the name Ristorante Stazione.
We had suddenly entered the
special domaine of Agnese and Fabrizio Broggine, owners of this unique
Ristorante. It is a special oasis of warmth and love, genuine to the core. Our
entrance produced a flurry of activity punctuated by laughter and embraces for
each of us. Even Blackie the big dog got into the act with his own version of a
Ticinese kiss. It were as if the 'prodigal sons' had finally returned to a
family reunion of decidedly grand proportions. |
|
Off on the side stood a
distinguished young man to whom we were most certainly introduced, who now
stepped forward to announce a spur of the moment (so we thought) plan before
sitting down to dinner.
The man, Stefan Früh asked us to prepare
for a 'little' tour of the central part of the village Intragna, with a brief
stop to San Gottardo church to visit the 100 year old pneumatic organ and
Ticino's highest church
TOWER.
Stefan Früh is a wise and highly educated resident of Intragna, and
accordingly his family roots can be traced back centuries to the time of the
Middle Ages. Our new friend Stefan took us over
narrow
cobbled stone streets, all the while filling us in on the local history. We
were fascinated by his acute knowledge of historical events, but also his
energetic pace up and down the undulating streets brought more than a few
unintentional whimpers from beneath our breath. |
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He
stopped us in front of a magnificent colossal door that had hinges the size of
‘godzilla’s fists’ fastened to it, the kind only a Home
Depot-junkie like me would notice. He whipped out an ancient looking
‘jailor’s key’ and inserted it into the lock.
"We will
now
climb
the tower,” he said in a whisper. We looked at each other and agreed,
but the question that remained unasked was of course 'How high is the tower'.
"It is only 65 meters high", he continued before we could ask it and up we
went….and up….and up…I paused to look up; no end in
sight….up and up…we went. I began to feel like I was caught in some
kind of ‘M.C.Escher’ graphic work, where endless stairs are the main
motif and I became a recalcitrant individual neither going up nor going down
both at the same time. I could feel everyone’s thoughts clamoring in
protest, begging for a rest and then it appeared. The belfry was within reach
now and we all fell forward as gracefully as we could into the small area,
above which hung several tons of cast iron bells. Not being able to see too
well in the darkness, we now watched as our guide Stefan lite a small
flashlight into the corner to reveal that a bottle of Ticinese sparkling wine
had been chilling since the afternoon and we were now about to celebrate our
new found friendship! Moments like these are never lost and will be repeated
many times in order to share the experience with the same eagerness and
pleasure with as many as possible. We began our descent with a newfound spirit
of fondness and respect for our guide Stefan Früh and his passion for his
cultural heritage and birthright.
It was almost pitch dark when we
landed at the bottom of the tower and Stefan guided us back to the Ristorante
Stazione. Our lavish dinner was about to begin and in the moments before the
first couses were served many curious questions were asked about our
impressions of what we just saw. It is fulfilling to witness such interest and
sincerity on the part of such decidedly proud people. Once again, menus meant
nothing, as it was time for a spontaneous demonstration of Executive Chef
Adriana Gamma's terrific talent. We urged her to pull out all the stops and she
started with the first course of: |
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APPETIZER:
Pheasant terrine with Merlot reduction on
Tatsoy greens topped with a mustard fig sauce.
WINE:
Sinfonia in bianco Chiericati Bellinzona 2001 - A 'white' merlot with warm gold
tones, peach and apricot bouquet, light roasted notes and mild tartness. A
modern wine with an exotic touch. |
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Next we
were presented with the SECOND COURSE of:
Homemade fresh pasta with
fresh Centovalli porcini mushrooms. Fresh picked local valley mushrooms
provided an earthy accent sufficient enough to propel the pasta into the
limelight.
WINE: Vinattieri Merlot 1994 - Nice aromas of
berries, spice and herbs. Ripe fruit with rich balance and focus, spectacular
finish. |
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For our MAIN
COURSE we were served:
Tender veal filet with braised veal ragout and
truffled potatoes. Locally raised milk-fed veal provided a tender 'cut with
your fork' filet, expertly cooked in its own juices.
WINE:
Tenimento dell'Or, Sottobosco - The blending of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and
petit verdot produced a pofound expressive wine of top quality. Deep color,
fine nose with blueberry fruit, vanilla and toasted accents. Good acid balance
with hints of forestberries. |
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Next
came the THIRD COURSE of:
Assorted cheeses both aged and soft,
produced with cow, sheep, goat and buffalo milk from the local Centovalli with
fresh fig bread (also a local specialty) accompanied by the WINE: Dolce
oro Terreni alla Maggia Ascona - gorgeous, exquisite, sweet and beautiful fruit
notes. |
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Our grand finale
was presented to us at just the right moment to bring this lovely evening to a
fitting close.
DESSERT:
White and dark chocolate
terrine with wild forest berries. At this point just a double espresso or my
favorite 'Café Melange' would have sufficed if it wasn't for the great
enthusiasm of our congenial hostess Frau Agnese Broggine |
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| Across
the room was an innocuous unobtrusive table stacked with about half a dozen
very tall bottles. We should have become suspicious at the rather large size of
the weights attached to the bottoms of the bottles since they were placed there
to prevent the tall bottles from falling over. |
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| Each bottle held
a serious looking opaque liquid and Ms Broggini reached over and started to
pour it into several aperitif glasses. It was as if she was holding some kind
of 'medieval' weapon in her arms and with extreme dexterity she was able to
complete the job and pour us an 'after dinner' drink from a distance of about
six feet. It reminded us of a cross between Jaegermeister and Sambuca Romana
and was precisely the right medicine and the right moment. |
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It was
a fitting end to an absolutely marvelous evening and fabulous day in which we
had made an enormous amount of special discoveries that could only have
happened under the guidance of well-informed sincere people who are passionate
about their lives and want to share it with others of different cultures.
Hats off to the wonderful people of Ascona and the surrounding villages
and valleys of Ticino, an idyllic, magical place of quiet fulfillment. Special
thanks to JT. |
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by John Lomitola, Stefan Deyerler and Thorsten
Piosczyk
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme |
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| © 2008 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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