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Society - World
Level Perfection
May & December - 2005 |
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6 Stars
& 7 Stripes
Hotel & Service |
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The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™ |
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Finally, a deep-rooted dream of mine came true with
the confirmation to review the exquisite Grand Hotel Europe in one of the most
fascinating cities in the world, St. Petersburg Russia. I was prepared to
discover the history of this great and proud nation, what I was not prepared
for was the experience of lavishing on caviar by the pound and vodka by the
gallon. Russia here we come. St, Petersburg is renowned as the Venice of the
North, Europe's 4th largest city and one of its richest places in open-air and
indoor history alike. This precious, vibrant city attracts circa four million
visitors annually from all over the world. St. Petersburg with direct airline
connection to many major world cities is easy to reach. St. Petersburg, open
for business and pleasure, welcomes the world.
We took the luxurious
overnight Grand Express train from Moscow to St. Petersburg, a most pleasant
way to travel over such a long distance, sound asleep ;)… A
train
ticket is more expensive than an airplane ticket, but we wouldn't have
missed the experience of traveling cross Russia with this train for the world.
Being able to get up, walk around, meet people at the bar for a drink - and
'lots of leg space' is hardly a mediocre way to travel. The new Grand Express
Train is the latest in business and leisure travel between the great cities of
Russia, a well-appointed hotel on wheels. |
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| We were granted splendid
accommodations in the cabin for the night and the special luxurious bath
amenities cannot be compared with traveling by plane. Our lovely host Anja did
a superb job in her attempt to direct us in Russian to the bar while she turned
down our suite for the night. Later in my comfortable bed I watched MTV
(insane) on the LCD-TV screen, while Arno got to contact our offices in New
York over Wi-Fi. We woke up to a gentle knocking at our compartment door by our
friendly limo driver from the Grand once we arrived at the St. Petersburg
Station. A new BMW 750 il was parked close to the main entrance ready to whisk
us away to the grandeur of the Grand Hotel Europe. |
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Please take a closer
look |
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Soon we arrived at our destination, the Grand Hotel
Europe, a distinguished 19th century landmark. This 'Grand' elegant hotel from
the days of pre-revolutionary
historical
pre-revolutionary days should later on reveal every modern amenity one could
possibly imagine. In 1991, the Grand Hotel Europe reopened as one of the
world's few true luxury hotels, strategically placed right in the heart of St.
Petersburg. Located across from the Shostakovich Philharmonic, next to the
Russian Museum, the Moussorgsky opera and ballet theatre and within walking
distance of the Hermitage Museum and the Winter Palace Square. This is the
place where it all happens and where one wants to be when visiting the eternal
city of the Romanoff's, founded by Peter the Great of Sweden.
My
photographer Arno Goudschaal and I were living, breathing history. St.
Petersburg was founded May 16th 1703 and on that very day the six-bastion
fortress was ceremonially laid on the Zayachy Island in the broadest part of
the Neva river estuary. The dedication of the fortress became the culmination
in the succession of events that lasted several centuries. The Finnish Gulf,
the Ladoga Lake, the Onega Lake and the surrounding region became the arena of
battles between Novgorod, and later the centralized Russian State and its
neighbors, especially Sweden. |
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Please take a closer look |
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The Grand Hotel Europe was
originally built in 1824 as a grand mansion and opened in 1991 in its present
form after a three-year renovation project. The impressive sum of $35 million
was invested by the time the mission is accomplished. An additional building
had to be purchased to extend the spa facilities. 'She' was an orphanage in
1917 during the Bolshevik Revolution and a hospital during the siege of
Leningrad from 1941-1944. This building is a national and cultural landmark and
under preservation as a historical monument. |
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| “The grand entrance halls of the world create the memories that
travelers will cherish for years to come.“ ~ TP |
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| We had goose bumps when the elegant doors were opened,
inviting us to enter these historic, and tastefully decorated halls. Check-in
was a celebration of 'Old-World' hospitality, we were well recognized and
thoughtfully welcomed in our mother language. From the moment the well-dressed
doorman had opened the doors of the BWM town-car to the time we were shown to
our suite, there was not a moment where we were left to our own
devises. |
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| Our
accommodations
were downright charming and pleasingly spotless. The ambiance exudes
understated elegance, relaxation and inspiration all at the same time. The
soothing colors chosen by these designers would please any sophisticated world
traveler. The antiques appeared to be carefully selected, mostly from within
the same period. Few travel experiences will surpass the feeling of our royal,
sumptuous, opulent suites. The extraordinary upholstery work in the rooms and
in all public areas suggested to us the expertly trained old-world
craftsmanship available on staff at the hotel. Overall 800 to 900 people are
employed year-round. |
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Please take a closer look |
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| The beds were dressed with luxurious linens and
featured wonderfully light and cozy duvet covers. Down pillows seem to be
standard but for guests with allergy concerns one may request a synthetic
pillow. The sheets and duvet covers were undisputedly sewn of the best cottons
in the world and were wonderfully soft to the touch, featuring exquisite
details of old-world artistry. The bathrooms were supplied with stacks of
super-soft and absorbent towels and double face micro fiber terry robes as well
as lightweight cotton-slippers. |
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| "A kind word is
like a spring day." ~ Russian Proverb |
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| We were still admiring these presidential
accommodations when within moments there came a careful knocking at the door
announced the arrival of a welcome table for two with Beluga caviar and a
bottle of perfectly chilled Russian champagne. So far, no Russian vodka. This
300-room hotel offers about 90 suites, of which some have terraces overlooking
the Russian Museum in Arts Square. One may gaze at the multi-colored domes and
the golden gilded bell tower of the Church of the Resurrection while sipping a
class of the finest champagne. I really didn't feel too excited about sharing
the most romantic view over the golden city with my photographer Arno who got
into a 'shooting' rage with his new Olympus E-Volt. |
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The fantastic antique
displays in the halls and accommodations were worth any museum entrance fee.
The vision of Russia is here on display and for us it meant 'living in
history'. Little crimson, lots of gold, we didn't know where to look first with
all the splendor and we were in awe, we people from the newer
world. |
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| During a tour with GM Thomas Noll we found out that
this hotel has seven restaurants and bars serving French, European, Italian,
Chinese and most certainly Russian specialties. Some of these facilities are
located right under the most amazing original stained glass ceilings one can
imagine. The main lobbies and piano / caviar bars (all with non-stop live piano
music) are popular hangout places throughout the day and evening. The Grand
Hotel Europe is also St. Petersburg's most all-embracing meeting facility, from
the elaborate Kryscha Ballroom and characteristic Billiard room to conference
rooms named after the crème de la crème of the late Russian
high-society. "Many have frequently visited the hotel…" explains Thomas
Noll "… and they will always be affiliated with our history, there was
Tschaikovsky, Gorky, Pushkin, Dostoevsky. Hey and don't forget Shostakovich,
Luciano Pavarotti, Elton John, Sir Paul McCartney and President Bill Clinton,
just to name a few…" GM Thomas Noll is a true goal setter, as we found out
during our detailed house tour. He actually built his own surfboard during the
time when he managed a hotel in Malta and succeeded in securing 3rd place with
that very windsurf board in a competition from Malta to Sicily, a respectable
distance of about 58 miles. The Grand Hotel Europe in St. Petersburg is one of
the best-managed hotels worldwide. |
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| "Neither man or nation can exist without a sublime idea." ~ Fyodor
Dostoevsky (1821 - 1881) |
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WORLD TRAVELER EXTRODINARE
THOMAS NOLL
Elegant and sophisticated GM, Thomas Noll joined the highly
successful Orient-Express Hotel group in February '05. Before that the
well-regarded connoisseur and gourmet ran the Corinthia Nevskij Palace Hotel in
St. Petersburg for about 3½ years. During his tenure at the Nevskij
Palace, the hotel changed its ownership and it was Noll's task to ensure an
easy transition and the re-branding of the hotel, while he was still steadily
increasing the revenues. Starwood Hotels & Resorts imported Thomas Noll to
Russia originally from one of their properties in Egypt, the Sheraton Sharm El
Sheikh Hotel, Resort and Villas. This is where the GM prepared for the Grand
Opening of the hotel and persistently led it to the status of 'Best in the
Region'. Prior to that, he was GM of the Conrad International Hurghada, the
Maritim Selmun Palace Hotel in Malta and the Beach Albatros Resort Hotel in the
Red Sea. |
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Thorsten Buehrmann & Thomas Noll |
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| Mr. Noll is presently handling a thirty-five million
dollar renovation deftly, without sacrificing daily operations. That takes a
pro. We were the first to see three demo accommodations, after the president of
the Orient Express Group Simon Sherwood. The suites that are featured now have
an even more ornate decorative style and are equipped with sunken plasma TVs at
the bed's end. Noll's major concern was updating the rather long hallways and
giving them visually more width through color, wall separations, additional
mirrors and integrated wall decorations. The wall-to-wall carpets were indeed
absorbing any sound, a job well done. GM Noll, a professional of German decent
and highly motivated, has over 20 years of hotel management know-how. He
attended the Hotel Management School of Poppe & Neumann in Konstanz,
Germany and began his career as Executive Chef at a number of hotels in Europe,
Kenya and Antigua. Always an expert in F&B, he was responsible for placing
Russia into the `Chaine
des Rotisseurs´, a society committed to promoting the culinary arts,
enology and hospitality. While acting as the Bailli Delegue, (or President) for
the society he was promoted to the Conseiller Magistral in Paris in 2003. A
bi-product of Noll’s leadership initiative was the successful A-list
ranking of The Grand Hotel Europe as #34 in the top 50 hotels of the world
according to Institutional Investor Magazine. This annual list is based on an
exclusive poll of senior financial executives who have experienced the
definition of what it means to be grand. |
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As a personal welcoming touch for his VIP
guests, Noll developed 'The Piano Player at the Piano Forte Welcome Package'
for those accommodations that are equipped with this instrument (Noll himself
played the trumpet for seven years in concerto). Under his management the Grand
Hotel Europe is now also offering off-sight catering that includes a historic
museum. Can you imagine a fairytale wedding in these golden museum halls? Noll
is intending to celebrate a traditional German Oktoberfest in St. Petersburg
next fall with an authentic oompa-band performing during the festivities. Only
in Russia . . .. |
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| Heedless of the proud world’s enjoyment, I prize the attention
of my friends, and only wish that my employment could have been turned to
worthier ends-- worthier of you in the perfection your soul displays, in holy
dreams, in simple but sublime reflection, in limpid verse that lives and
gleams. But, as it is, this pied collection begs your indulgence--it’s
been spun from threads both sad and humoristic, themes popular or idealistic,
products of carefree hours, of fun, of sleeplessness, faint inspirations, of
powers unripe, or on the wane, of reason’s icy intimations, and records of
a heart in pain. ~ Alexander Pushkin |
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| American Dream Cuisine™ |
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| Restaurant: Caviar Bar & Restaurant |
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| St.
Petersburg - Russia |
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Society - World Level
Perfection |
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6 Stars
& 7 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
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The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™ |
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Walking into the Caviar Bar for our much anticipated
cuisine review of Executive Chef Dominique Ferchaud's 'nouvelle cuisine' was
accompanied by the powerful allure of 'déjà vu'. During the
previous night's deep and restful sleep, a recurring dream conjured up visions
of opulence and regal majesty reminiscent of the long ago period of Czarist
times. The central figure in my dream seemed destined to successfully offer up
creative and tasty cuisine in an atmosphere only a Royal Family could
appreciate. I tried looking around inconspicuously in every direction as we
entered this dream world in order to validate my vivid recollections of the
previous night. "It was here. . . !" I mumbled hoping all the while that
someone would thankfully agree. It was Arno our photographer who cast a
controlled glance back at me while shaking his head in disbelief. "Why are you
talking to yourself?" he whispered as we were being shown to our table. Rather
than answer Arno, I simply smiled reassuringly at our Maitre D' Dimitri as he
held the chair while waiting for me to be seated.
"It was here," I said
again, this time to Arno, ". . this is the place in my dream last night!" Arno
still shaking his head quickly buried himself in the menu that was just handed
to him. As attentive servers graciously placed napkins on our laps, I made
mental notes of how elegant all the tables in the restaurant looked with
candles lit and condiments perfectly aligned. I took some time as I listen
intently to the three-piece ensemble performing selections of seemingly
world-class Russian opera arias. It all fit nicely into my notion of the
previous night's surreal event and I became more and more convinced that we
were now in for a remarkable experience at the hands of Master Chef Dominique
Ferchaud. It was an icy cold bottle of homemade Russian vodka flavored with
exotic fruits that brought me out of my dream and into the present. Quick
reactions by Dimitri anticipated the next move and before Arno could grab the
bottle, he poured a small shot for me all the while still in doubt of my sanity
and repeating "You need this" several times as if it were our secrete mantra.
There were of course other choices as the Russian mind is not satisfied with
mediocrity and so were placed several additional ornately 'etched' crystal
decanters filled with various types of vodka. My personal favorite
notwithstanding the exotic fruit flavored selection that brought me out of my
dream, was vodka laced with garlic. It goes without saying that I especially
liked the 'health' benefits of garlic and began to pay tribute to the
incredible medicinal properties. |
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| Four types of house made
breads including ciabatta and whole grain, were placed on the table along with
very creamy butter in the shape of billiard balls and flavored with paprika,
garlic and dill. I made it a point to continue looking around all the while
absorbing the ambiance that indirect lighting creates in well placed locations.
Menus were removed as Dimitri approached the table to announce the arrival of
the 'Amuse Bouche' as a sort of greetings from the kitchen of Chef Ferchaud and
his capable team. This is always a pleasant way of 'setting the stage' and
teasing the palate into anticipating good things to come. The opening salvo was
the Chilled Fish Soup with Coconut & Coriander topped with Crispy
Shrimp, reflecting Chef Ferchaud's mastery of a real Russian tradition of
soup-making influenced by years spent in the Middle East, Southeast Asia and
the Caribbean. |
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| We also had the pleasure of sampling Kamchatka Crab
Meat with Baltic Smoked Salmon served with Seaweed & Olive Oil
Dressing. It is unique in flavor and texture with a resemblance to very
meaty lobster although this particular preparation paired with smoked salmon
over seaweed brought out the delicate nature to its fullest potential. A bottle
of Sancerre Henri Bourgeois, 2001 worked well to compliment the seafood
with an enchanting crisp, fresh medium body, alive with citrus peel and floral
notes. |
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Our impression at this stage
was elevated by the continued attention to detail of the cuisine and impeccable
service provided by Dimitri and his staff. In fact, our suspicions were
confirmed during dinner after I dropped my napkin while making my way to the
washroom and it was immediately replaced upon my return, fresh and folded on my
lap. Plates were cleared with white gloves and preparations were in swing for
the intermezzo of Plum & Armagnac Sorbet. Needless to say, Dimitri
had a very good memory about our experience at the first cuisine review. We had
noted that the sorbet served with Pernod was 'a little overpowering' and
dutifully provided only a few drops of 18-year-old Armagnac to flavor the
otherwise refreshing sorbet, thereby making a marked improvement over the last
attempt. |
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| After the intermezzo, one of the most important events
of any review, we were sufficiently rested and prepared for the entrée.
Grilled
Veal Filet with Artichoke Confit, Candied Shallot and Garlic with Thyme in a
Winter Truffle Sauce
(Please take a closer look) arrived in
front of me as I continued sipping the never-ending flow of Russian Standard
Vodka. Although vodka in Russian culture is held in high regard, it has become
apparent that the taste for good European wines has increased in recent years
and the Caviar Bar provides a top shelf collection assembled after years of
research and collection. An appropriate bottle of Château de
Marsannay, 2000 Les Clos de Jeu offered up a terrific sense of satisfaction
and structure, which allowed it to support the meat dish without overpowering
it. At first whiff it produced red fruits of raspberry and cherry along with a
light smoky oak on the palate. Once swirled along the edges of the tongue,
distinct earthiness and fine tannins unite in elegant fashion. |
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| Our second entrée of
Roasted Angus Beef Tenderloin with Seared Spinach and Mushrooms, Potato
Millefeuille in Rosemary & Port Wine Sauce caused quite a stir at our
table. Here we were in Russia being catered to by an accomplished French master
chef and we are looking at his interpretation of an American icon, the Black
Angus beef. Chef Ferchaud's rendition decidedly exceeded our expectations in
every respect. The beef was perfectly 'rose pink' in the center after I
purposely sliced down the middle with my butter knife. The aroma of the earthy
chanterelles lying over the seared spinach reminded me that we were in the
presence of greatness in the making. It seemed the perfect harmony for mind and
body. |
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| Ever present Dimitri scurried around our table at
times filling our glasses, at times instructing his team as to the precise
moments of when to interact with us in some productive way. Plates were cleared
along with all silverware as the table was being crumbed and prepared for the
final course. New utensils were replaced from a napkin-lined plate with white
gloves and tea or coffee was offered. Russians pride themselves on their long
history of tea drinking although I thought the coffee to be intense and
flavorful in keeping with the great roasts of Western European coffee houses.
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We were now presented with a
dessert of Roasted Pineapple with Chocolate Gingerbread and Strawberry
Cappuccino with Grand Marnier. There before us came a very creative
tempting ensemble of shapes, textures and distinct flavors arranged in artful
fashion just begging to be sampled. All in all dessert seemed rather complete
until Dimitri returned with a bottle of Calvados XO. As he poured the
powerful liquid into our brandy snifters, we relished the pure clean very
Cognac-like aroma and upon sipping noticed how smooth and peppery it was on our
palates. I couldn't think of a better way to match the roasted tropical fruit
over zesty chocolate gingerbread. Talk about chcocolate... |
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| All NEW are Ferchaud Chocolates; Executive
Chef and Chocolatier Dominique Ferchaud is producing the finest hand created
'Made in Russia' confections imparting chocolate lovers with his treat from
every part of the world. Ferchaud has raised the bar on the meaning of 'Swiss'
chocolate artistry. The Grand Hotel Europe's Confectionery is a chocolate
lover's heaven! They offer a diversity of mouth-watering dark and milk
chocolates, dreadfully sinful truffles, and fabulous fudges. All chocolates are
handmade, hand filled, and hand finished. It was rather recently that Ferchaud
and GM Noll came up with the idea of producing a world chocolate brand
producing superb chocolates in creative, deliberately delicate forms like
Butterflies. The only suggesting I have for the master chocolatier is to
present his rather dark delicacies on a
light
color laced plate. I am certain my wife would have experienced the great
death by chocolate if she had been able to join me. |
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| “Ferchaud’s dedication to excellence is prevailing, once
again.” ~ TB |
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| Ferchaud's Chocolates
are just asking for comparison with Godiva, Neuchatel or Lindt. While
Ferchaud's Butterflies are artfully irreplaceable to eat he is retaining the
essential fundamental chocolate flavors that often get lost with these types of
delicate creations. The packaging alone will excite not only those that are
guests at Grand Hotel Europe, as I can see a line of chocolate addicts filing
out of the door once the message has gone out. Russia is now open for true
gourmet chocolate business. We were the first to see and taste the finished
products. The elegant packaging is putting this high-society confection
over the edge! I am honored. |
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| “A
Chocolate Star is born!” ~ TB |
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Please take a closer
look |
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| "Onward and upward" I heard Arno say as he moved from
the table toward the Lobby and Piano Bar. It was the seductive sounds of live
piano and violin music beckoning us sit for a while and absorb the provocative
performance of the alluring ensemble. It was time to give thanks to Chef
Dominique Ferchaud and his competent team along with Maitre D' Dimitri and all
our servers, especially Victor who quietly performed his duties unobtrusively
and efficiently. |
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| “And Now ... Ladies and Gentlemen… The
Piano
Bar!” |
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Thorsten Buehrmann & Tanya Noll |
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I was daring to demand. The
tone was rather reminiscent and more on the mellower side. The singer expertly
handled the harmonic modulations and her English with a charming accent. The
Piano
Bar is renowned for its live entertainment, I was told by a local guest.
This is an ideal place to relax and enjoy a quiet drink or meet people. The
soft piano music adds to the special ambiance of the elegant bar. The dress
code is undoubtedly dictated by its sophisticated clientele and is one of the
reasons it tends to attract middle-aged well-healed guests. |
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| “Elegant, unique, world class and decidedly low-key.” ~
TB |
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| The bar is well stocked with a vast variety of
top-shelf liquors and a light menu of international snacks is offered. Arno had
has obligatory Mojito with fresh mint leaves ;) The ambiance created an
atmosphere of congeniality and warmth bringing back the true feeling of St.
Petersburg's elegant night-life. When I met the GM's wife Tanya Noll at the
bar, she was on the way to meet with her husband for a private dinner with
former President
Mikhail Gorbachev. I noticed her extraordinarily beautiful
features and fabulous dress style. Mrs. Noll had studied German at the Goethe
Institute and conversed with us in that language. |
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| Due to an unfortunate incident at the bar, where a
guest had spilled a cocktail over my entire suit, I went upstairs to change. We
were passing through
fairytale
holiday halls of Christmas, millions of sparkling lights flanking us right
and left. Talk about magic, I made a wish...and the dry cleaning staff made it
come true in under two hours. With the push of a button, access to 24-hour room
service, laundry and dry cleaning is at your fingertips. Back at our wonderful
accommodations, the curtains that where purposely left open during turn-down
and released the views of heaven,
St.
Petersburg by night – that is. |
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| Breakfast at St. Petersberg's
Grand Hotel Europe is INSANE, a feast of international colors and tastes.
Global is the theme and yes we did get to taste the most unforgettable blintzes
ever, toped with Beluga caviar! This breakfast menu is definitely for people
from different countries and it was created to inspire. In the background the
ethereal sounds of a harp being played by a beautiful woman romanced our still
sleepy minds. Waking up to a world of possibilities beyond frozen waffles
brought to light the little-known truth about Russian hospitality and the way
they see the most important meal of the day. My outlook on breakfast has
changed forever, supported by the sounds of heaven on earth. |
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| After breakfast we were scheduled for a boat trip
through the canals to visit other areas of this historical city. We reached the
private boat slip after a leisurely 5-minute walk and were welcomed by our
guide Tanya. The city was built on the water, the Venice of Russia, spread over
several islands; actually connecting them through hundreds of bridges which
explains the nickname 'City of 101 Islands'. |
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Please take a closer look |
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Throughout history numerous
bridges were built to connect these islands across the various tributaries of
the Neva and the city's many canals (Moika, Fontanka, Kanal Griboyedova, etc.)
The architecture on these fascinating canals may be compared with Venice or
Amsterdam - all of irresistible charm. The wide flowing Neva is conceived as
the lifeline of the city. |
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| During a two-hour sightseeing tour through the canals
we got to understand why 'Peter the Great' wanted the Neva River to be 'The
Main Street' of his beloved city. A comfortable well-equipped boat took us down
the river to St. Isaac's Cathedral, the 'Bronze Horseman', the Menshikov
Palace, the University and many other points of interest. We admired the
Strelka of Vasilyevsky Island, the Winter Palace and the Peter and Paul
Fortress en route. By the time we got to the spectacular Bolsheokhtinsky Bridge
Arno, our photographer had as stiff nick and a cramp in his hand ;). It was as
if the light-blue sky and relatively warm spring temperatures were applauding
our visit. |
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| Right after the boat-trip we
were invited to the Grand Hotel Europe's 130th anniversary celebration. The
creation of a new world-record for the longest caviar-toast was on the agenda,
130 meters (427 feet). At a press conference that Thomas Noll's PR team hat
prepared to the 'T', the GM comfortably addressed the international press, as
he'd done so many times before in his two decades of hospitality management.
Here I feel the need to mention that the Grand Hotel Europe's purchasing
director is in the unique position where he gets to sample the caviar in large
portions before he makes a purchase and then he buys in large quantities. It
then becomes a matter of ensuring that the quality of this precious delicacy is
always consistent. |
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Please take a closer look |
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| "The good does not interest us. The sublime does." ~ Raymond
Blanc |
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| Thomas Noll opened the celebration initially by
addressing all his employees where he thanked them for their team spirit and
dedication and praised them on how they had accomplished all their goals as a
team. Then 168 lbs of red caviar was prepared on a 130 meters (427 feet) of
toast by 130 chefs under the direction of Executive Chef Dominique Ferchaud.
The long toast was placed on tables, which lined the main street in front of
the Grand Hotel itself. The chefs and their helpers served 600 VIP guests while
all were enjoying the wonderful spring sunshine. It was the start of the 'White
Nights' season in St Petersburg . . . |
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Please take a closer look |
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. . . and we were there,
'inhaling' the 'priceless caviar toast one delicious piece at a time. The
world-record attempt was carried out in accordance with the rules set forth and
then certified by 'Levsha', the Russian Club of Records. The caviar toast
record had been submitted to the Guinness Book of Records for inclusion in its
2005 book. We shall never forget the day or the people who joined the
celebration.
It was truly an extraordinary event. |
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| “Creating a winning team that works like one man towards that
one common goal is his forte.” ~ TP |
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French Dream Man: Raymond Blanc, A Gifted
Chef
During the celebration we meet with Executive Chef Raymond Blanc who
opened his first restaurant at the age of 28, which, after just one year, was
named Egon Ronay Restaurant of the Year. |
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| Other accolades including
Michelin Stars and Pestle & Mortar awards. Born in Besançon, France
in 1949, Raymond Blanc is acknowledged as one of the finest chefs in the world.
Raymond arrived in England in 1972 to work as a waiter at the Rose Revived
Restaurant near Witney. When the chef became ill, he took over and two years
later, the restaurant gained entry into the Michelin Guide. |
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Thorsten Buehrmann & Raymond Blanc |
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| After the official part of the celebration was over
and the Guinness Book of Record mission accomplished, Thomas Noll set the mood
on 'party' and that's what we did, we partied into the wee-hours. The
festivities where spilling over three banquet halls, while big bands were
entertaining exquisitely dressed people to the swing tunes of Glen Miller and
other classics from around the world. The rooms were extraordinarily
efficiently climate controlled, never too hot and never too cold, just right
though the heat was on. St. Petersburg high-society consumed caviar and the
entire trimming by the gallons, and we joined in. |
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Please
take a closer look |
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Arno felt that he had not
seen more beautiful young ladies in years and when I saw him only
once-in-a-while he was always dancing with one gorgeous debutant after another.
In one of the adjoining festively decorated banquet rooms I found the 'Patron
de Cuisine' of the Orient Hotel Group 'Raymond Blanc' in action - within an
hour he prepared a 50 degustion menu 'from soup to nuts' for the gourmet ga-ga
crowd. Supported by an uncounted battalion of ever-pleasing, professional
staff, the crowd applauded after every course that left his little 'show
kitchen' in excitement and anticipation of what they would get to taste each
time. The man is a God in the kitchen; most creations were unheard-off, he
doesn't copy. The finest Champagne, the coldest Vodka and any other top-shelf
drop the spoiled world has to offer were ringing in the 'White Night' season in
fairytale St. Petersburg. |
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| I could have sworn that I saw Dr. Zhivago entering the
festive gala, but that was long after midnight ;) These are the Vodkas I tasted
during our stay in Russia - made in Russia: Stolichnaya, Jewel of Russia,
Gzhelka, Red Army, Moskovskaya Osobaya, Magadanskaya, Ladoga Tsarskaya Vodka.
Vodka is said to have been 'discovered' in Europe's most northern regions. The
Polish claim it was their discovery and the Russians will tell you otherwise.
However, Vodka came to be a major part of the Russian culture, as it was
already distilled before the word vodka came into its common use. Although it
has been described with many other names, the word 'vodka' is a minuscule of
the word 'voda'; in Russian, meaning 'water'. You decide. I drink to
that. |
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Please take a closer look |
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| Waking-up was very difficult the next morning. We
refused to get dressed for breakfast and instead jumped into our sweats and
hung out at the spa for an hour or so. Arno couldn't shake his tiredness since
he had slept only 3 hours; I couldn't shake the hangover. I must have had a
hundred vodkas right from the 'frozen' Neva River with any Russian male or
female at the party. They insisted, what can one do? At the spa we didn't
really work out, just 'lingered' in the pool and didn't move too much, but
decided to get a massage later on. We went back to our suite, for a casual-cozy
breakfast with the hottest most aromatic strong coffee and a couple of nicely
presented to the minute eggs-over-easy, home-made Russian potato-pancakes and
nicely salted grilled smoked bacon. The orange juice was freshly squeezed and
was competing with Florida's golden sun. We sucked on some strawberries and
started to feel much better by then, good for another exiting day . .
. |
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| We went for a stroll through
the boutiques in the hotel and my thoughts were of how my future wife would
have a blast here. During the $35 million in renovations, a portion was
invested in little shops that are certainly open to the public. Many exclusive
names are represented in these 'adorable' little stores, and besides world of
fashion, crafts and the most exquisite jewelry along with the finest art
objects are represented, too. One of Miss 'Aleksandria's' paintings had been
purchased from this very art gallery by President Vladimir Putin. From 1764 to
1774 Catherine the Great bought 2500 paintings, now to be viewed the The State
Hermitage Museum Exhibitions. We decided to capture the moment by taking a
close-up of a Russian Faberge eggs. The elephant was able to hide the smaller
egg inside his belly, while the large egg was big enough to hide the
elephant. |
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| The original Faberge jewelry workshop was founded in
St. Petersburg in 1842 but its real glory came when the son of the founder Carl
Faberge took over. Faberge's technique as goldsmith made him famous worldwide.
As Supplier to the Imperial Court of Russia, he is best known for his unique
series of 50 jeweled Imperial Easter eggs dating from 1885-1916. Faberge's
customers included most of the world's royalty and other wealthy clientele of
his time. After the 1917 October Revolution, Peter Carl Faberge emigrated from
Russia. He died in Lausanne, Switzerland in 1920. |
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Please take a closer look |
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| Magically a white horse-drawn carriage appeared at the
main entrance. I really missed sharing this quixotic moment with my bride,
Simone. Our uniformed guide was most knowledgeable and gave us a
history
ride from a different angel, real close over cobbled stones and: The State
Hermitage Museum, the Winter Palace, the Menshikov Palace, the Peter & Paul
Fortress, St. Isaac's Cathedral ~ Tzarskoye Selo. Ekaterina Palace, the
information we received was precise, and too much to share, so we are including
a link to these significant historically so important and valuable
places. |
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| American Dream Cuisine™ |
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| Restaurant: L'Europe |
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| St.
Petersburg - Russia |
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Society - World Level
Perfection |
|
6 Stars
& 7 Stripes
Cuisine & Service |
|
The Ultimate
Award:
Seven Stars and Stripes™ |
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It would be a night to remember! Not just for the
excitement and high energy that a Tina Turner concert creates before curtain
call; nor for the whispered rumors of Bill Clinton arriving for a book signing;
nor for the fact that Mikhail Gorbachev actually accepted an invitation to dine
with the GM of Grand Hotel Europe, Tomas Noll and his wife. Yet still, this
would be a night to remember!
GM Thomas Noll and Executive Chef de Cuisine
Dominique Ferchaud have pulled out all the stops. There would be nothing left
to chance; attention to every detail would be impressed upon each one of their
well-respected and capable staff. Our dining arrangements for this evening were
to be held in the impeccable surroundings of the Restaurant L'Europe under the
watchful eye of Maitre D' Dimitri and his proficient servers all dressed in
formal black attire.
Our greeting at the L'Europe entrance was the
respectful and personal handshake of immediate recognition, reflecting the
precise, meticulous nature of our gracious restaurant master of ceremony. The
enduring sounds of a quartet singing a classical selection and supported by
violin and piano accompanied us to our special table decked out with fresh
flowers. As a matter of fact, there were fresh flowers everywhere, all
organized and arranged by the Grand Hotel's in-house florists. Dimitri, who is
a member of the famed La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs sees to it that
every guest at the restaurant receives the highest possible level of
unobtrusive service available. It is also apparent that he must work closely
with Master Chef de Cuisine Dominique Ferchaud in the presentation of his
powerfully creative cuisine. |
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“Dimitri, who is a member of the famed La Chaîne des
Rôtisseurs sees to it that every guest at
the restaurant receives the
highest possible level of unobtrusive service available.” ~ TB |
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| Immediately upon being seated
a toast was proposed with several fluted glasses of precious Tattinger
Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blanc. This powerful yet dense multilayered
well-balanced bubbly offered an abundance of white fruits, tangy green apple
and a deliciously long finish. It was the perfect representation for this
moment of gratitude and enjoyment. A white-gloved server named Anton approached
pushing a large garadon filled with an abundance of assorted house-baked
breads. We were asked to choose, but that was almost impossible with baguettes,
rolls and other shapes made from pumpernickel, rye and other whole grains
overflowing from the wagon. Butter was another dilemma but this time we tried
all three types including dill and garlic, fiery red paprika and natural
unsalted. |
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| Preparations complete, it was now time for Executive
Chef Ferchaud to begin his performance with the first order of business
introducing us to Kamchatka Crab & Vitelottes Potatoes, Boquet of Green
Leaves, Basil Oil & Balsamic Vinegar. At first glance you wonder what
the purple stuff is under the delicate crabmeat but upon tasting you realize
that they are purple Peruvian potatoes, shredded and prepared simply with basil
oil and balsamic vinegar. A finer combination of colors, shapes and taste may
be hard to find as this proved to qualify as original art. |
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| “A finer combination of colors, shapes and taste may be hard to
find as this proved to qualify as original art.” ~ TB |
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| This was followed by
Warm Boston Lobster with Artichoke confit and Citrus White Wine Butter
sauce brought from the kitchen completely out of the shell and arranged in
such a way that appeared three dimensional. It was a superb representation of a
New England (Massachusetts, US) favorite, actually bursting with sweetness and
not chewy at all. All along we were fortunate to have had the 1995 Sauvignon
Blanc, Blue Grove Hill, South Africa as our recommended wine selection and
it proved to compliment the shellfish in a way that brought out their fresh
ocean flavors in a big way. |
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“It
was a superb representation of a New England favorite, actually
bursting
with sweetness and not chewy at all.” ~ TB |
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| Our specialty for the evening so far appeared to dwell
on seafood, so in keeping with that theme Chef Ferchaud impressed us with his
rendition of the ~ 'King of All Fish' ~ Grilled Filet of Turbot with Seared
Fennel & Tomato Purée and Coriander Oil. Anton, our server,
smiled as he poured another taste of the Sauvignon Blanc seemingly aware of its
auspicious affect on this special fish. |
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| We relished the floral
quality of the aroma and savored the golden citrus and honeydew melon found
while swirling the wine over the palate. An intermezzo was next on the agenda
and it was to be Lemon Sorbet with Beetroot & Vodka, an inexplicable
combination forcing us to admire the blood-red effect of the beetroot on the
rest of the sorbet. Vodka, the far from trivial ingredient in Russian culture
is omnipresent in all shapes and forms and this intermezzo was yet another way
to show its versatility. |
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| Our next course appeared to break ranks with the rest
of the menu and came to us in the form of Roasted Rack of Lamb with Parmesan
and Paprika Crust, Potato with Sun Dried Tomato & Olive with Port Wine
Sauce. Rack of lamb must be carefully roasted in order not to dry out the
meat; therefore it is imperative that the rack be 'encased' by some sort of
crust to preserve moisture. |
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Chef Ferchaud's use of his
savory mixture proved effective in moisture control although a bit overwhelming
to the taste buds. "A little less parmesan" I mentioned to Arno feeling a
little guilty as I finished off the last tasty morsel. This time a very fine
bottle of 1997 Capanelle Solare, Italy served as the appropriate wine
paring for the rack of lamb. Ruby red in color, it conjured up visions of the
beetroot sorbet although I must say, that is where the similarity ended.
Capanelle Solare smoothly flowed over our palates with minimal effort imparting
such subtle hints of dark red forest fruits reminding us of raspberries and
blackberries. A slight tannin finish worked to lightly cleanse the palate in
preparation for the next sip of this medium bodied treasure. |
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| Plates were dutifully cleared all the while overseen
by the watchful eyes of Dimitri as he choreographed each magic moment. It is
obvious that the feeling of cooperation amongst the restaurant and kitchen
teams reflected a greater importance that the management of the Grand Hotel
Europe under the guidance of GM Noll has placed on their overall goals of
complete guest satisfaction. |
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| We were now ready for the
final course of tea, coffee and petit fours to accompany the chef's creation of
Chestnut "Mont Blanc", Pineapple Cappuccino with Rum. My secrete passion
is desserts and at first glance I just wanted to say 'wow' but could only mange
a smile. After tasting the chestnut crème my smile turned into a
vocalization of pleasure through various ummm's and ahhh's as each bite was
processed. |
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| Over coffee, we talked to Executive Chef Dominique who
purposely came out of his domain to see how we liked his artistry. We discussed
his organizational skills and how difficult it is to run an operation with a
team of 35 chefs and 17 stewards. Chef Ferchaud's goal is to maintain the
highest standards in terms of quality and service by leading, motivating and
developing his staff's innate talents. His leadership skills had been honed
throughout his career with positions in England, France, Anguilla, New York,
Abu Dhabi and Lebanon some of which included Michelin Star establishments where
he furthered his global expertise. |
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Dominique Ferchaud &
Thorsten Buehrmann |
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His most recent
accomplishment with the Valhrona Chocolate Training, in Tain L'hermitage,
France with Mr. Mickael Loonis shows that his desire for self-improvement
continues even after many years of experience. This acquired expertise has
successfully led to a new profit center for the Grand Hotel Europe and much
deserved notoriety. It was equally refreshing to find out that every
high-energy personality has his down time to relax and forget about the
business and Chef Ferchaud enjoys scuba diving and underwater digital
photography. It's no wonder some of his culinary works of art reflect the
tropical colors and natural free forms of the environment beneath the seas.
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| Just when we thought that it couldn't get better then
that, shielded from the winter temperatures in these cozy warm halls, we were
asked to put on our coats and follow the Executive Assistant Manager i/c of
Food & Beverage Christian Sack for a drink outside. Did he say outside? We
were lead through the heavy main entrance door and stepped out on the light
filled walk way to the 'Ice Bar'. People were lined up in warming clothes; some
wore fur coats and furry hats and gloves. While this seemed embellished to us
at first, we changed our mind after some time at the bar amongst the joyous
crowd. The iced sidewalk bar has no doors, anyone can walk up and order a stiff
Grand Exclusive Vodka, some served in a glass of molded ice... |
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| This obviously keeps the
Grand
Hotel Europe Vodka as cold as possible until we got to clink our ice cube
glasses and 'Cheers' - 'Nastrovje' that in Russian is when they were poured
down our throats. We didn't feel cold at all after the second shot ;) leaning
on the bar counter of ice with the hotel logo embedded in the ice. I didn't
think they would offer non-alcoholic drinks, and was amused that they didn't.
Of course, the fun is much 'cooler' when you take one of the strong alcoholic
drinks and we had a few. At night, the bar is a natural meeting place for all
those passing by who feel the need for a little nightcap. |
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| The traditional Sevens Stars and Stripes Award handout
ceremony was covered by one of St. Petersburg’s leading TV broadcast
providers. Two Seven Stars and Stripes Awards were presented that night of
which one was for the Grand Hotel Europe and the other for Executive Chef
Dominique Ferchaud, both received Six Stars and Seven Stripes. Thomas
Noll’s short-term goal is to put the stamp ‘Russia’s Best’
on the Grand Hotel Europe ~ and he is well on the way. An internal Orient
Express in-house production team captured the well-deserved moments of
celebration for the global chain as well. The Sevens Stars and Stripes Award
recognition speech was well received with great applause. |
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| “As I feel that I don't have enough space to describe the true
feeling about our experience - I want to close by saying that the St.
Petersburg Grande Hotel Europe is not just another hotel one stays at while one
visits St. Petersburg, it is a life style. It is Russia. The Grand lady is a
flagship of hospitality, greatness and splendor. She is the old world, the
place where one expects 'Catharine the Great' and her court to celebrate her
wedding.” ~ TB |
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by
Thorsten Buehrmann & Arno Goudschaal
Editor: Ingrid
Lemme,
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola |
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| © 2006 ~ Seven Stars and Stripes, Inc. |
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