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| American Dream Wine |
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| The Prager
Winery receives |
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Extraordinaire |
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5 Stars &
Stripes for
Extraordinaire white wines |
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The Ultimate Award:
Seven
Stars and Stripes ™ |
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The Wines of the Prager
Vineyard
Inspired by the rich nature of the Wachau and the fortunate spontaneity
of our gracious host at Schloss Durnstein, we decided take a break on our
inspiring journey through the Wachau with a privileged visit to one of the
leading wine producers in Austria, the Prager Vineyard and Winery.
Anton 'Toni' Bodenstein, the congenial winemaker welcomed us to the premises
of the vineyard and the old country house above the river Danube. The estate
is a warren of terraced beauty from which the verietal makeup is heavily
Riesling at 65%, Grüner Veltliner with 25% and 10% Chardonnay. It appears
as though the Prager Estate is the fortification that safeguards the lovely
village of Weissenkirchen, which is nestled therein. |
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While being recognized as a leader
in Wachau viniculture, one of 'The Rising Stars of the Century' according
to the World Gourmet Summit 2001, Bodenstein's goal is to create quality
wines of extraordinary harmony and agreeability. Before tasting the
jewels of his efforts, he took us directly to where it all begins,
into vineyards where we spent the next hour or so traipsing up and
down the most charming and ancient cultural historical landscape in
Austria.
Bodenstein informed us that while the rest of Austria continues to
use the general Germanic wine terms: Kabinet, Spätlese etc.,
the Wachau has evolved its own nomenclature to designate the hierarchy
of its wines. There are three categories: Steinfeder, Federspiel and
Smaragd. |
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| Steinfeder is the simplest. The
name comes from a grass that grows in the rocks among the vines and these
are light wines, for drinking soon after bottling. Next is Federspiel, named
after a device used in falconry to lure the hawk back to the glove and these
wines need a year or two in bottle before consumption. Finally we have Smaragd,
which means both emerald, and an emerald-colored lizard natural to the Wachau
of which these wines need time and will keep well. |
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Rolf and I became even more determined
now to learn the secrets of finding the right time to harvest the
grapes. We were astonished by Mr. Bodenstein's knowledge of the terrain,
its chemical makeup and the influence it has on the quality of the
wines.
His nick name in the region "The Terroirist" and there is no doubt
about his deep knowledge of the local geology while his skills in
introducing us into this complex matter were impressing, too. |
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Before we knew it we were fast at the heals of
Bodenstein as he sped through the acres of vines while he did his work measuring
the "Oechsle" level of the grapes. This is the German method of measuring
the specific gravity (therefore sugar content), of the must or grape juice
prior to harvest and fermentation. It is similar to the brix system used
in the United States.
Our education process now intensified as we were invited to visit the cellars
of the Prager Winery. Mr. Bodenstein allowed us to taste the different stages
of winemaking from the sweet grape juice to the bottled Rieslings and Veltliners.
Often referred to as the "jewel of the Wachau", Prager Winery is one of
the most recognized producers in the region and has become renowned for
noble Rieslings that reflect finesse, delicacy and excellent distinction.
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It is the aim of this winemaker and
others in the region, to ensure that all grapes used in their production
come from recognized vineyards in the Wachau and each wine receive
approval from the local Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus a sort of
quality control board for Austrian winemakers.
Modern equipment with long family tradition enables The Prager Winery
to produce the best wine that the weather and ground conditions allow
year after year. While collaborating with the near by university,
Bodenstein exchanges his experience with the crème de la crème
of wine producers and rating specialists. He has nothing to hide and
so much to offer as we have happily found out. |
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| Just take your time when being in
the Wachau and consider visiting this outstanding winery to relax with a
glass of one of the finest Rieslings we have experienced so far. |
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THE PRAGER WINELIST
RIESLING
- FEDERSPIEL 2002 Ried Steinriegl
- SMARAGD 2002 Ried Hollerin
- SMARAGD 2002 Ried Steinriegl
- SMARAGD 2002 Ried Kaiserberg
- SMARAGD 2002 Ried Achleiten
- SMARAGD 2002 Ried Klaus
- SMARAGD 2002 Wachstum Bodenstein
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VELTLINER
- FEDERSPIEL 2002 Ried Hinter der
Burg
- SMARAGD 2002 Ried Weitenberg
- SMARAGD 2002 Ried Achleiten
- SMARAGD 2002 Ried Zwerithaler
- SMARAGD 2002 Ried Achleiten
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RARITIES
- Gr. Veltliner Beerenauslese 1998 0,5l
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Servus Austria !
Rolf Stähler & John Lomitola
Editor-in-Chief: Ingrid Lemme
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